Ideas for cooling down 292 engine compartment
#41
Registered
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I thought I read earlier the throat was 3.75" ?
Fuk, I spent about 2 hrs early this morning looking for components for larger FA and for a fresh air / larger FA system based off 3.75" . 3.75" is brutal, but 3, 3.5", 4",so on and so forth not as tough.
Who is the OE manufacturer ? I tried finding that too, but came up empty.
Fuk, I spent about 2 hrs early this morning looking for components for larger FA and for a fresh air / larger FA system based off 3.75" . 3.75" is brutal, but 3, 3.5", 4",so on and so forth not as tough.
Who is the OE manufacturer ? I tried finding that too, but came up empty.
#42
Registered
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I gather that Barbron is out of business, but they sold it to another company in Michigan which I found. They are willing to help, I just need some more information to help get them started. If it can be customized, it would be great to even make the cleaner larger in height as there is space.
#44
Registered
#45
Registered
Thread Starter
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Maybe this is a stupid idea, but why not simply direct connect the TB with intercooler piping and run it up under the gunnels and place a normal FA there(K&N generic one)? All this stuff is rated for turbo pressures(backfire resistant) and by going from 3.5" to 4" right after the TB, you would/should not have a big restriction. This would avoid all issues with finding an arrestor to go on the engine.
#46
Registered
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I actually think that the K&N filter could work. The throat on the TB is 3.5", but that is easily made up with a small spacer(K&N is 3.75"). The three studs that hold the FA down would be an issue as two of them would not let the FA seat on the TB. You could eliminate the studs, but I would not want to trust the hose clamp to hold the FA on the TB without something helping it. The flange on the TB is only about 0.5" high, so the clamp land would be pretty small. I think you would open the engine compartment and see the FA rolling around without something added to help it stay put.
I got a hold of the OEM flame arrestor company today, and they are looking into making one that should fit. The ones I ordered ended up being out of stock..just my luck. Hopefully, they can make something that will work right out of the box.
COOPS, do you have the PN for the arrestor you have? Getting them started with this info would help a ton. I gather that Barbron is out of business, but they sold it to another company in Michigan which I found. They are willing to help, I just need some more information to help get them started. If it can be customized, it would be great to even make the cleaner larger in height as there is space.
I got a hold of the OEM flame arrestor company today, and they are looking into making one that should fit. The ones I ordered ended up being out of stock..just my luck. Hopefully, they can make something that will work right out of the box.
COOPS, do you have the PN for the arrestor you have? Getting them started with this info would help a ton. I gather that Barbron is out of business, but they sold it to another company in Michigan which I found. They are willing to help, I just need some more information to help get them started. If it can be customized, it would be great to even make the cleaner larger in height as there is space.
#47
Registered
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've had the pleasure of being boarded by coast guard several years ago. A group of us were all anchored together, there was a death on the bay the weekend prior, so they were making their presence known and just conducting routine safety checks. First thing they checked on my boat was the engine compartment and the flame arrestors to make sure that I had them and they weren't modified in an illegal way. Just throwing this tidbit of info out there, I know you are just swapping the stock ones for bigger ones but not just for your safety but also the safety of any crew onboard, please make sure any modifications are fully functional and not just thrown together to gain a few extra MPHs.
Kai definitely has my attention with this. Looking forward to see where this goes.
Kai definitely has my attention with this. Looking forward to see where this goes.
#48
Registered
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Maybe this is a stupid idea, but why not simply direct connect the TB with intercooler piping and run it up under the gunnels and place a normal FA there(K&N generic one)? All this stuff is rated for turbo pressures(backfire resistant) and by going from 3.5" to 4" right after the TB, you would/should not have a big restriction. This would avoid all issues with finding an arrestor to go on the engine.
#49
Registered
Thread Starter
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Game on! I thought a lot about all the comments here and now have a direction.
Last night I was thinking of moving the FA...not going to do that as it could be a safety issue.
Heard about the idea that this could actually increase under hood temps by directing air only to intake. I agree.
Lots of investigation into parts and availability...for sure anything is possible.
So..what to do......?
For the time being, I have ordered the following.
http://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDe...=1408146326010
I am going to pipe the air from the forward facing duct to the area of the FA like I mocked up with the flex tubing. I really believe that the way the inlet and outlet of the air on the sides of the boat are set up...especially with the bimini top shelves in place, that the air will travel into the engine compartment, some pulled to the intake of the engines and what is not needed, simply goes to the other vent on the side of the boat. There is NOTHING that helps get engine cool air, and the path of least resistance for air not needed for the engine intake, is simply the exit...it never has a chance to even pull heat out.
SO....my theory is that I will dump all the fresh air on top of the engines, let it use what it likes, and then the rest will have to travel across all the hot exhaust etc to get to the exit. In effect, the best situation is that all the air leaving the exit port is as hot as possible. Sounds simple, but why the air is directed the way it is must be to satisfy some rule or law. For sure, it is a safe and simple design, but it is not efficient at using the potential of the ONE AIR INLET per side. Imagine your window air conditioner working great....except you want air in your bedroom!! OOPS....they didn't think of that until viola.....central air!!!!
So...in a week I will have the parts, and then the saw comes out so I can cut the tubing and make it look all pretty. Hopefully, I can reinstall the bimini shelves with the 180 degree pipes, but if there is no room...oh well. My 17yo daughter said the boat looks like an "old man's boat" with the bimini on anyway.![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Subtle ideas on the piping would be great. Like I said, the FA will be a separate issue, so that will come later.
My thought is to make some foam plugs for the sides when trailering, to makes sure bugs and birds don't enter.
Drill a few small holes in the lowest part of the piping to assure no water can accumulate.
Possibly add some large gauge wire mesh to the inlet side...once again to protect against debris entering.
Maybe do some kind of diffuser to get air directed around the FA...so the air does not just blast one small area.
And of course some super cool sticker to go on the side of the boat saying "RAM AIR INDUCTION", or "Danger-AIR INLET". Kidding on this of course...the stickers will go on the piping.![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
thoughts???
OK.. that's the plan.
Last night I was thinking of moving the FA...not going to do that as it could be a safety issue.
Heard about the idea that this could actually increase under hood temps by directing air only to intake. I agree.
Lots of investigation into parts and availability...for sure anything is possible.
So..what to do......?
For the time being, I have ordered the following.
http://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDe...=1408146326010
I am going to pipe the air from the forward facing duct to the area of the FA like I mocked up with the flex tubing. I really believe that the way the inlet and outlet of the air on the sides of the boat are set up...especially with the bimini top shelves in place, that the air will travel into the engine compartment, some pulled to the intake of the engines and what is not needed, simply goes to the other vent on the side of the boat. There is NOTHING that helps get engine cool air, and the path of least resistance for air not needed for the engine intake, is simply the exit...it never has a chance to even pull heat out.
SO....my theory is that I will dump all the fresh air on top of the engines, let it use what it likes, and then the rest will have to travel across all the hot exhaust etc to get to the exit. In effect, the best situation is that all the air leaving the exit port is as hot as possible. Sounds simple, but why the air is directed the way it is must be to satisfy some rule or law. For sure, it is a safe and simple design, but it is not efficient at using the potential of the ONE AIR INLET per side. Imagine your window air conditioner working great....except you want air in your bedroom!! OOPS....they didn't think of that until viola.....central air!!!!
So...in a week I will have the parts, and then the saw comes out so I can cut the tubing and make it look all pretty. Hopefully, I can reinstall the bimini shelves with the 180 degree pipes, but if there is no room...oh well. My 17yo daughter said the boat looks like an "old man's boat" with the bimini on anyway.
![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Subtle ideas on the piping would be great. Like I said, the FA will be a separate issue, so that will come later.
My thought is to make some foam plugs for the sides when trailering, to makes sure bugs and birds don't enter.
Drill a few small holes in the lowest part of the piping to assure no water can accumulate.
Possibly add some large gauge wire mesh to the inlet side...once again to protect against debris entering.
Maybe do some kind of diffuser to get air directed around the FA...so the air does not just blast one small area.
And of course some super cool sticker to go on the side of the boat saying "RAM AIR INDUCTION", or "Danger-AIR INLET". Kidding on this of course...the stickers will go on the piping.
![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
thoughts???
OK.. that's the plan.
#50
Registered
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
From previous boats just like yours gaining speed with the larger Mallory arrestors, with no additional ducting, I'm gonna say your arrestors are priority #1, and then the air temps are priority #2.
Always deal with the biggest horsepower killer 1st for best value per dollar and usually effort.
I would love to jump aboard one of these 292's to see what would have to be done to add in a nice unrestrictive cold air system.
Always deal with the biggest horsepower killer 1st for best value per dollar and usually effort.
I would love to jump aboard one of these 292's to see what would have to be done to add in a nice unrestrictive cold air system.