RunninHotRacing163.1

Thnx Excursion yes we picked up 30 of the electronic ballast w/F96 bulbs /says 75 % brighter and we put up 2 so far and these 2 are brighter then with all 36 of the old bulbs .we're gonna need frickin sunglasses and tanning oil when we fire em all up
thnx again

excursion

30 !!!!! What are you lighting up , WALMART?????

You are going to really enjoy them. I only turn on the center row when need light, but when need DAYLIGHT flip all the rows on and you can see perfect.

Linster

When you fire them up you want to let them burn in for about 45 minutes to increase lamp life.

Expensive Date

Bryan,what do you think of thes kits?


http://diypolebarns.com/kits/

Sydwayz

Tim,
I did a quick quote of a building similar to what I built with Pioneer on that site. Including labor, it was less than 15% difference in pricing between the two. I have no idea on lumber quality of the DIY company. If you are getting close to pulling the trigger, give Pioneer a call. It's end of the month and end of the quarter. See what you can negotiate.

Expensive Date

I will look at them not close just looking.I am not buying anything till my house is paid of and I am close.I need to take a bunch of trees down around the house the ones that were little when I built it are now getting big.So will move the tree line back for it behind the house when I do that.I go back 600 feet past the house so there is plenty of room.

RunninHotRacing163.1

30 !!!!! What are you lighting up , WALMART?????

thnx Excursion worked out awesome and would do it again the same

Expensive Date

If you don't mind me asking how much did your concrete cost.

baywatch

Bryan helped me with some questions when I built mine as well.

I also found that there was only about a 10% price difference between a DIY kit and having the barn company erect it. I am in Missouri and used a company call BCI out of Oklahoma.

As far as your land clearing is concerned I had to remove a forest for mine so I rented a highlift and pushed all the trees down. It worked really slick and I was able to clear the whole area in about 3 1/2 hours.

Good luck..

Sydwayz

I have not poured the slab yet. I still have a gravel floor with thick plastic on top.


(This is actually a huge advantage of a post-frame construction building vs. girder steel frame or "aircraft hanger" type of steel building. Both require significant footings and high concrete costs UP FRONT.)

The portion of the property where my Toy Box is in a very wet area at certain times of the year. I had to build up the road with sand, and had to scoop out almost 2 full feet of natural soil where the barn pad would be, and fill it in with crushed rock, sand, under-road construction felt, and more sand. I have #57 crush and run that has been my "floor" for since I erected it. I wanted to make damn sure I was not going to have any settling before I went with concrete.

That said, I anticipate finally doing it this fall. I slowed my schedule due to this demolition derby impulse decision.

My concrete piers were poured by the barn company, which is what my posts rest on. They were then filled in with Sac-Crete. This was all including in the building/labor.

I anticipate 2200 sq ft of concrete including building floor and an apron to cost around $6K when all is said and done.