Apache Skout transom
05-29-2015, 05:43 PM
#21
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My stringers looked like that and the rot stopped completely before the engine bay bulkhead, i dunno what your stringer layout is but you might get lucky and just have do from the bulkhead back. You shoulda cut a little deeper with the skil saw, i made the same mistake now its a ***** to pop the last layer out. Hopefully my boat doesnt crack in half because im a hack and i didnt scarf them in just glassed the F out of them. Ive seen them done both ways so im not really that worried.
A mason cut off wheel on a grinder works good for cutting the glass but is also possibly one of the most dangerous tools invented haha! I also wish i had used a 9 inch grinder would have made my life a lot easier.
I used a chainsaw to get the rest of the transom out from where you are now cutting little squares and popping them out with a prybar. an electric chainsaw works good if you know someone with one, i happened to have one for some reason its better than the gas one because less oil on the chain etc
A mason cut off wheel on a grinder works good for cutting the glass but is also possibly one of the most dangerous tools invented haha! I also wish i had used a 9 inch grinder would have made my life a lot easier.
I used a chainsaw to get the rest of the transom out from where you are now cutting little squares and popping them out with a prybar. an electric chainsaw works good if you know someone with one, i happened to have one for some reason its better than the gas one because less oil on the chain etc
Last edited by sparky24; 05-29-2015 at 05:48 PM.
05-29-2015, 06:38 PM
#22
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My stringers looked like that and the rot stopped completely before the engine bay bulkhead, i dunno what your stringer layout is but you might get lucky and just have do from the bulkhead back. You shoulda cut a little deeper with the skil saw, i made the same mistake now its a ***** to pop the last layer out. A mason cut off wheel on a grinder works good for cutting the glass but is also possibly one of the most dangerous tools invented haha! I also wish i had used a 9 inch grinder would have made my life a lot easier. I used a chainsaw to get the rest of the transom out from where you are now cutting little squares and popping them out with a prybar. an electric chainsaw works good if you know someone with one, i happened to have one for some reason its better than the gas one because less oil on the chain etc
06-01-2015, 11:15 PM
#23
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Hey TC,
Sorry I haven't responded sooner. I finally found some time to sit down and right a respose. I am sorry to hear you found more rot. Like sparky said above, I hope that's the extent of it.
Fist off, I appreciate Phil's comment about being an expert but I am far from that. To be honest, I gotta give credit to where it's due. Thru out my project Glass Dave stepped me thru it. Reading OSO threads helped but Dave was the man.
On to your project. 1st suggestion is be safe. New tools, new situation, and new techniques. Don't rush it. Also, invest in a good respirator & safety glasses. With that disclaimer out of the way, hammer, pry bars, oscillating tool, and flap disk should keep you going. I found the oscillating tool to be awesome. Easy to use, safe, and low on dust.
I think your at the point where you need less direction and more of a pep talk.. It's all gotta come out and be grounded down smooth for reinstallation. Keep in mind, you can either stack the transom in or out of the boat.
What direction are you going to go.... Epoxy or polyester/ vinyl ester?
Sorry I haven't responded sooner. I finally found some time to sit down and right a respose. I am sorry to hear you found more rot. Like sparky said above, I hope that's the extent of it.
Fist off, I appreciate Phil's comment about being an expert but I am far from that. To be honest, I gotta give credit to where it's due. Thru out my project Glass Dave stepped me thru it. Reading OSO threads helped but Dave was the man.
On to your project. 1st suggestion is be safe. New tools, new situation, and new techniques. Don't rush it. Also, invest in a good respirator & safety glasses. With that disclaimer out of the way, hammer, pry bars, oscillating tool, and flap disk should keep you going. I found the oscillating tool to be awesome. Easy to use, safe, and low on dust.
I think your at the point where you need less direction and more of a pep talk.. It's all gotta come out and be grounded down smooth for reinstallation. Keep in mind, you can either stack the transom in or out of the boat.
What direction are you going to go.... Epoxy or polyester/ vinyl ester?
06-02-2015, 09:49 AM
#24
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Hey TC,
Sorry I haven't responded sooner. I finally found some time to sit down and right a respose. I am sorry to hear you found more rot. Like sparky said above, I hope that's the extent of it.
Fist off, I appreciate Phil's comment about being an expert but I am far from that. To be honest, I gotta give credit to where it's due. Thru out my project Glass Dave stepped me thru it. Reading OSO threads helped but Dave was the man.
On to your project. 1st suggestion is be safe. New tools, new situation, and new techniques. Don't rush it. Also, invest in a good respirator & safety glasses. With that disclaimer out of the way, hammer, pry bars, oscillating tool, and flap disk should keep you going. I found the oscillating tool to be awesome. Easy to use, safe, and low on dust.
I think your at the point where you need less direction and more of a pep talk.. It's all gotta come out and be grounded down smooth for reinstallation. Keep in mind, you can either stack the transom in or out of the boat.
What direction are you going to go.... Epoxy or polyester/ vinyl ester?
Sorry I haven't responded sooner. I finally found some time to sit down and right a respose. I am sorry to hear you found more rot. Like sparky said above, I hope that's the extent of it.
Fist off, I appreciate Phil's comment about being an expert but I am far from that. To be honest, I gotta give credit to where it's due. Thru out my project Glass Dave stepped me thru it. Reading OSO threads helped but Dave was the man.
On to your project. 1st suggestion is be safe. New tools, new situation, and new techniques. Don't rush it. Also, invest in a good respirator & safety glasses. With that disclaimer out of the way, hammer, pry bars, oscillating tool, and flap disk should keep you going. I found the oscillating tool to be awesome. Easy to use, safe, and low on dust.
I think your at the point where you need less direction and more of a pep talk.. It's all gotta come out and be grounded down smooth for reinstallation. Keep in mind, you can either stack the transom in or out of the boat.
What direction are you going to go.... Epoxy or polyester/ vinyl ester?
If the Weather clears up I'll be digging out more of the Rot tonight! I have my hammer and pry bars, standing by...LOL Having the right tools make the job a lot easier so looks like a oscillating tool is defiantly in my future, Maybe next payday!
I'll build the Transom in the Shop and then Install it assembled, I think the Epoxy Resin seems to be the Choice of most, so that is what I'm leaning towards.
Todd
Last edited by TC9ball; 06-02-2015 at 09:56 AM.
06-02-2015, 09:46 PM
#25
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Epoxy is a waste of money and more difficult to work with because it is too thick to quickly wet out 1708. Vinylester resin is cheaper and the correct resin to use, it is much stronger than polyester resin but retains the same ease of use. I was paying 120 per 5 gallon bucket.. I used 15 gallons of vinylester resin and 4 gallons of polyester but that was including a lot of cabin work where I used poly only. Also you cant gelcoat the epoxy if you use it... but really polyester is fine to use, its good enough, but if you want something a little tougher the vinylester is a good choice plus it is waterproof while polyester isnt
Buy a 3M full face respirator http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=2180 only way to go
Buy a 3M full face respirator http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=2180 only way to go
Last edited by sparky24; 06-02-2015 at 09:49 PM.
06-04-2015, 07:07 AM
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Epoxy is a waste of money and more difficult to work with because it is too thick to quickly wet out 1708. Vinylester resin is cheaper and the correct resin to use, it is much stronger than polyester resin but retains the same ease of use. I was paying 120 per 5 gallon bucket.. I used 15 gallons of vinylester resin and 4 gallons of polyester but that was including a lot of cabin work where I used poly only. Also you cant gelcoat the epoxy if you use it... but really polyester is fine to use, its good enough, but if you want something a little tougher the vinylester is a good choice plus it is waterproof while polyester isnt
Buy a 3M full face respirator http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=2180 only way to go
Buy a 3M full face respirator http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=2180 only way to go
Todd
06-06-2015, 10:12 AM
#28
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Apache more than likely built the boat using polyester resin . In the hierarchy of resins , Polyester is the entry level , Vinylester mid level and Epoxy top level . Any resin will bond down the chain , but will not bond up the chain , or at aleast I wouldn't trust it to . You should be fine using the Vinlester on the Apache . In fact it will result in a better fisinhed product . Unlike polyester it will foam abit once you add the catylist than is normal and will mix in after a few moments .
Cheers Rick G.
Cheers Rick G.
Last edited by Rick G; 06-06-2015 at 10:16 AM.
06-08-2015, 11:11 AM
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Thanks Rick... I'm not really sure what to do yet.... but I have time to figure it all out. .. I messed up my thumb friday. Only 2 stich e's but possible nerve damage. Two weeks in a splint. I still need to dig out the old transom.
Todd
Todd
06-09-2015, 09:11 AM
#30
Geronimo36
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I would only use Vinylester or Epoxy. The bond that Vinylester makes is much stronger than Poly. Epoxy makes a chemical bond where as Vinyl a mechanical bond. Vinyl will bond to poly but not the other way around. If you're unsure if the boat is poly or vinyl you should use vinyl. No one really uses poly when building HP boats anymore.
Epoxy definitely takes longer to wet out and if using Epoxy I suggest using 1700 cloth instead of 1708. 1708 has the backer which is meant for vinyl and poly resin, Epoxy does not need it and the cloth will wet out much faster.
I've used both and can honestly say that Epoxy is much stronger and has a much better bond. however, there's nothing wrong with Vinyl and it's cheaper. If you're a beginner, the benefit of using Epoxy is that you can use tropical hardener which gives you more working time.
Good luck!
Epoxy definitely takes longer to wet out and if using Epoxy I suggest using 1700 cloth instead of 1708. 1708 has the backer which is meant for vinyl and poly resin, Epoxy does not need it and the cloth will wet out much faster.
I've used both and can honestly say that Epoxy is much stronger and has a much better bond. however, there's nothing wrong with Vinyl and it's cheaper. If you're a beginner, the benefit of using Epoxy is that you can use tropical hardener which gives you more working time.
Good luck!
