33 Outlaw with boxes and big HP?
#21
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Brad Smith rebuilt them for him. He's not too mechanically inclined so I'm not getting a lot of detail out of him. Nor have I seen the work sheets from Brad. My best guess is they are now 509's with some port work to the stock heads, a slight bump in compression, different cams, ECU reflashes, and larger injectors. Dyno numbers were 605 HP/600 ft. lbs. torque. Turning them 5400 RPM with rev limiters set at 5800. Set up to run on 89 octane. I know he did not go with aluminum heads.
Must be in the compression bump ?
We're a few short on the hp, but 606 on the tq. using
stock compression, good heads, cam ecm, asm tb.
One more thing,
If he was breaking drives when stock, have him
check the u-joints in the driveshaft in the box to see if they're phased properly ( each end yoke running in the same plane)
Mine were 90* out of phase( which doesnt help
with driveline harmonics)
Chances are that the same person rigged my boat might
have done his since they're only a year apart.
#22
Registered
Thread Starter
Must be in the compression bump ?
We're a few short on the hp, but 606 on the tq. using
stock compression, good heads, cam ecm, asm tb.
One more thing,
If he was breaking drives when stock, have him
check the u-joints in the driveshaft in the box to see if they're phased properly ( each end yoke running in the same plane)
Mine were 90* out of phase( which doesnt help
with driveline harmonics)
Chances are that the same person rigged my boat might
have done his since they're only a year apart.
We're a few short on the hp, but 606 on the tq. using
stock compression, good heads, cam ecm, asm tb.
One more thing,
If he was breaking drives when stock, have him
check the u-joints in the driveshaft in the box to see if they're phased properly ( each end yoke running in the same plane)
Mine were 90* out of phase( which doesnt help
with driveline harmonics)
Chances are that the same person rigged my boat might
have done his since they're only a year apart.
He ordered his boat through GSC. He busted two drives in the first year. He said they found some alignment problem but that is all he told me. Again, he is not mechanically inclined so he had no idea what they found or did. Then the drives lasted a couple seasons until he blew the top cap off the port drive cruising about 45 MPH.
Last edited by Knot 4 Me; 04-20-2011 at 11:16 AM.
#23
Gold Member
Gold Member
He'll like the 5 blades, trust me.
Another thing ( with these high x boats) is try to move
some weight to the rear,( or get rid of the junk up front) since trim leverage is diminished, you cant carry the bow as well.
This has been a work in process for me, that I started
last fall, and as soon as I get done with the engines
in my buddy's Cig, I'll be back at it.
BTW, what did he do to get over 600 hp out of a set of 500EFI's ?
Another thing ( with these high x boats) is try to move
some weight to the rear,( or get rid of the junk up front) since trim leverage is diminished, you cant carry the bow as well.
This has been a work in process for me, that I started
last fall, and as soon as I get done with the engines
in my buddy's Cig, I'll be back at it.
BTW, what did he do to get over 600 hp out of a set of 500EFI's ?
#24
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He may have also done some intake work and a different throttle body. Again, don't know for sure but I know it is hard to hit 600HP in the 500 EFI's without some intake work.
Yes it is.
He ordered his boat through GSC. He busted two drives in the first year. He said they found some alignment problem but that is all he told me. Again, he is not mechanically inclined so he had no idea what they found or did. Then the drives lasted a couple seasons until he blew the top cap off the port drive cruising about 45 MPH.
Yes it is.
He ordered his boat through GSC. He busted two drives in the first year. He said they found some alignment problem but that is all he told me. Again, he is not mechanically inclined so he had no idea what they found or did. Then the drives lasted a couple seasons until he blew the top cap off the port drive cruising about 45 MPH.
What else are you moving or removing? Once I got the batteries to the transom and all the trim and tab pumps as far back as possible, I ran out of weight to move back. I want to get more out of the cabin but once I yanked the fridge and microwave and converted the panels in the "bed" to aerospace panels I ran out of ideas. There are a few other things I am going to do with the cuddy seats but thats my last thing to do to remove weight.
I'm thinking about adding weight ( like Bobby did) back
in the engine compartment, in the area outside of each
stringer, on the outside of the engines.
What I think that would be neat, is a bladder ( like wake
board boats use) that would fit down on each side of the
center stringer....that way, you keep the center of gravity
low.
I dont know how feasable that is though.
What I do know iis that sand bags or tractor weights on the
swim platform is out of the question, according to the mrs.
#25
Gold Member
Gold Member
One more thing,
If he was breaking drives when stock, have him
check the u-joints in the driveshaft in the box to see if they're phased properly ( each end yoke running in the same plane)
Mine were 90* out of phase( which doesnt help
with driveline harmonics)
Chances are that the same person rigged my boat might
have done his since they're only a year apart.
If he was breaking drives when stock, have him
check the u-joints in the driveshaft in the box to see if they're phased properly ( each end yoke running in the same plane)
Mine were 90* out of phase( which doesnt help
with driveline harmonics)
Chances are that the same person rigged my boat might
have done his since they're only a year apart.
#26
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VIP Member
Do yourself a favor, take the stellings driveshafts out , rebuld them and have them balanced. Upon delivery, mine were out of phase too. I just put my engines back in, while they were out, I took the shafts to a driveshaft shop and had them balanced. First, always run them "in phase" second, dont let anyone tell you they are "too small" to be balanced. I dont think they are balanced from Stellings but I can tell you mine were WAY out of balance. The drivshaft guy said they were really bad. I suspect this is what set my knock sensor off when I first put the stellings boxes on my boat.
#27
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I heard somewhere that Stellings has some kind of coupler like Merc that you can put on the fly wheel.
Anybody know if that is correct?
Anybody know if that is correct?
#28
Registered
Thread Starter
Do the driveshafts a flange coupling? Is that what you mean by running in the same plane...making sure the u-joint caps line up at the coupling? Sorry, never seen the inside of the boxes so trying to picture what you are talking about.
#29
Registered
Thread Starter
OK, found some pics of the boxes. I doubt when he said "alignment problem" that it was the carrier bearing inside the box. You would think that would just affect the ease in getting the drive to mount and the spline wear on the drive's driveshaft. The driveshaft from the box to the flywheel is a flanged coupling at both ends. So is the phasing you are talking about between the box driveshaft and the drive's driveshaft? I'm surprised Stelling's does not balance those driveshafts.
#30
Gold Member
Gold Member
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...lings-box.html
Here is a link that comes up from time to time. They are $400 a piece and have a 4 week lead time. I opted out and decided not to use them (again) you are increasing the driveshaft angle to accommodate the drive saver since its about 1.25 inches thick.