plywood for floor in 24 outlaw
08-02-2012, 07:45 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
plywood for floor in 24 outlaw
I have removed the center section of the floor on my 24 outlaw to remove the tank and check the stringers. Stringers are great, but found some bad coring. That is another story. Now that I have repaired that, I'm thinking I would like to replace the center section for the floor. It's not in bad shape at all really, except for a little damage on the edge in some spots. But I figured I have it out and I'm replacing the carpet, it would be very easy to replace now. I'm planning on putting fiberglass mat down on both sides and reinforcement ribs on the bottom. I'm just wondering if I should use marine grade plywood or normal exterior grade? Also I'm not sure what thickness to use? My current section is between 5/8 and 3/4. If I use a true 3/4, I'm afraid that the center section of my floor might be raised too high causing problems when I install my rear seat. I guess I could put another layer of mat down on the two side sections? Any input or advice would be appreciated.
08-03-2012, 04:30 AM
#5
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Treated plywood does not take/hold resin as well as standard and is typically frowned against due to that.
I've used basic, B/C exterior from Home depot in a ton of projects w/zero issues. I even build a 9' dinghy out of it that stayed in the water behind my cruiser in Lake Erie for several yrs. Again, zero issues.
IMO, it's perfect for a project like yours as well.
One trick you can do for more strength is to use multiple layers of a thinner plywood to get your total desired thickness. As in two layers of 3/8" to get your 3/4". Couple layers of 2oz mat between and it will be probably 50% (+) stronger than a single 3/4" piece.
You'll want to end up w/a layer of 1708 or something similar for additional strength when finished as well. This is the material that is standard mat on one side and cloth on the other.
Another trick to assure it lasts forever is to thin down a first coat of resin as a vapor barrier. Most of the books say 10% as a # and it makes a huge difference. I just use acetone w/standard polyester resin.
The dinghy bellow was skinned with 1/4" exterior plywood and had no outer fiberglass skin either. It crossed Lake Erie like that, behind my cruiser, many, many times. Was way more fun though when repowered to the 15.
I've used basic, B/C exterior from Home depot in a ton of projects w/zero issues. I even build a 9' dinghy out of it that stayed in the water behind my cruiser in Lake Erie for several yrs. Again, zero issues.
IMO, it's perfect for a project like yours as well.
One trick you can do for more strength is to use multiple layers of a thinner plywood to get your total desired thickness. As in two layers of 3/8" to get your 3/4". Couple layers of 2oz mat between and it will be probably 50% (+) stronger than a single 3/4" piece.
You'll want to end up w/a layer of 1708 or something similar for additional strength when finished as well. This is the material that is standard mat on one side and cloth on the other.
Another trick to assure it lasts forever is to thin down a first coat of resin as a vapor barrier. Most of the books say 10% as a # and it makes a huge difference. I just use acetone w/standard polyester resin.
The dinghy bellow was skinned with 1/4" exterior plywood and had no outer fiberglass skin either. It crossed Lake Erie like that, behind my cruiser, many, many times. Was way more fun though when repowered to the 15.
