496ho manifolds
#11
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Some shops hire mechanics and others hire parts replacers. Most likely a good move taking the boat to another shop. It's not that hard to start loosening hoses and flush them out until you notice a blockage.
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SO guys.. I moved it to a new shop as stated above because I just didn't think the manifolds were clogged because this boat is so damn clean.. I just got a call from the shop and guess what....... it was a 35 to 40 dollar part.. it was a check valve that is used for the garden hose connection inside the engine area for flushing.. SO what happen with it.. it looks like the check valve that opens (which closes the drive side) when flushing with the hose DID NOT release when I finished using the hose. I didn't even know there was piece even like this, its in line from the hose coming from the transom to the water pump.. its a easy fix / replacement but DAMN that other shop for not finding this and wanting to charge me 3000 dollars for manifolds and install...
#14
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Maybe a dumb question but... Was the Manifold problem discussed a 496HO only problem or both 496 and 496HO problem? I'm looking at 496 boats and wonder if this is something I should keep an eye out for?
#15
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Which "problem?" If you mean that the motors were originally sold with aluminum manifolds and they went to cast iron after '05 or so, that's both the base and HO I believe.
That said, I don't think it's a problem at all. If you have either, I'd run them until it's time to replace, then buy Stainless Marine.
If you mean the check valve that stuck in this case, that's gotta be both as well. Not a big deal, just sounds like an incompetent and/or unscrupulous shop.
That said, I don't think it's a problem at all. If you have either, I'd run them until it's time to replace, then buy Stainless Marine.
If you mean the check valve that stuck in this case, that's gotta be both as well. Not a big deal, just sounds like an incompetent and/or unscrupulous shop.
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this boat you can eat off these engines and that is why I could not believe it was a manifold problems.. I did talk to Merc hotline # and they did some what know of the problems from the older manifolds because that's why they changed the material they are made in .
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Which "problem?" If you mean that the motors were originally sold with aluminum manifolds and they went to cast iron after '05 or so, that's both the base and HO I believe.
That said, I don't think it's a problem at all. If you have either, I'd run them until it's time to replace, then buy Stainless Marine.
If you mean the check valve that stuck in this case, that's gotta be both as well. Not a big deal, just sounds like an incompetent and/or unscrupulous shop.
That said, I don't think it's a problem at all. If you have either, I'd run them until it's time to replace, then buy Stainless Marine.
If you mean the check valve that stuck in this case, that's gotta be both as well. Not a big deal, just sounds like an incompetent and/or unscrupulous shop.
#18
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The check-valve Tee-connection that Baja factory installs in their boats is JUNK. I do not know why they put it in there. I've seen and heard of so many boats having problems with it.
You DO NOT need the spring loaded check ball valve in there. Take it apart and remove the ball/spring.
When you have the flush fitting, with no check ball; as soon as your turn on the hose, it will backflush from the Tee-fitting backwards out the drive. (Important!)
As soon as you start the motor, the SWP will pull the water in, and you will see little to no water coming out the drive.
Turn the engine off, and then let it flush backwards for a bit longer.
Additionally, I feel as though when they have this check-ball Tee connection in there, and it DOESN'T flush rearward out the drive, I think this is a DIRECT contributor to some salt water boats which have a transom assembly corrosion problem in the water supply hose and associated. I've seen THIS problem with Bajas before too.
You DO NOT need the spring loaded check ball valve in there. Take it apart and remove the ball/spring.
When you have the flush fitting, with no check ball; as soon as your turn on the hose, it will backflush from the Tee-fitting backwards out the drive. (Important!)
As soon as you start the motor, the SWP will pull the water in, and you will see little to no water coming out the drive.
Turn the engine off, and then let it flush backwards for a bit longer.
Additionally, I feel as though when they have this check-ball Tee connection in there, and it DOESN'T flush rearward out the drive, I think this is a DIRECT contributor to some salt water boats which have a transom assembly corrosion problem in the water supply hose and associated. I've seen THIS problem with Bajas before too.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 09-22-2016 at 08:43 AM.
#19
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The check-valve Tee-connection that Baja factory installs in their boats is JUNK. I do not know why they put it in there. I've seen and heard of so many boats having problems with it.
You DO NOT need the spring loaded check ball valve in there. Take it apart and remove the ball/spring.
When you have the flush fitting, with no check ball; as soon as your turn on the hose, it will backflush from the Tee-fitting backwards out the drive. (Important!)
As soon as you start the motor, the SWP will pull the water in, and you will see little to no water coming out the drive.
Turn the engine off, and then let it flush backwards for a bit longer.
Additionally, I feel as though when they have this check-ball Tee connection in there, and it DOESN'T flush rearward out the drive, I think this is a DIRECT contributor to some salt water boats which have a transom assembly corrosion problem in the water supply hose and associated. I've seen THIS problem with Bajas before too.
You DO NOT need the spring loaded check ball valve in there. Take it apart and remove the ball/spring.
When you have the flush fitting, with no check ball; as soon as your turn on the hose, it will backflush from the Tee-fitting backwards out the drive. (Important!)
As soon as you start the motor, the SWP will pull the water in, and you will see little to no water coming out the drive.
Turn the engine off, and then let it flush backwards for a bit longer.
Additionally, I feel as though when they have this check-ball Tee connection in there, and it DOESN'T flush rearward out the drive, I think this is a DIRECT contributor to some salt water boats which have a transom assembly corrosion problem in the water supply hose and associated. I've seen THIS problem with Bajas before too.
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Port side riser overheats
Hi guys looking for some help here. 496ho overheats in port side manifold. Checked it with a heat gun. New impeller and still over heats at WOT and goes into guardian mode .... cools back down at idle. Never had a impeller break off. Back flushed it..good flow from both exhaust at idle and while getting up to plane ..... pressures are good , Check with scan tool.
pulled hoses off from the closed cooling system and back-flushed every thing separate from the fuel cooler, oil cooler, power steering cooler ext...... is it possible for the ball check valve to be stuck ...... water flow is good I’m just wondering if the water leaving the heat exchanger is some how recirculating the hot water back in though the oil cooler. Is this possible .... could really use the help
pulled hoses off from the closed cooling system and back-flushed every thing separate from the fuel cooler, oil cooler, power steering cooler ext...... is it possible for the ball check valve to be stuck ...... water flow is good I’m just wondering if the water leaving the heat exchanger is some how recirculating the hot water back in though the oil cooler. Is this possible .... could really use the help