Power hatch not working Help!
#1
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Power hatch not working Help!
Hello , I have a 1988 240 Sport and the power rear hatch will not come up . When I hit the switch the gauges all drop down and volts go to 10, same thing no matter which way I try up or down. Anyone have any idea on manually opening it or getting to the engine from the inside. Only way I see is by removing the rear hinges for the hatch and going in that way. Thanks for any ideas.
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J240:
Been there, done that. I have the same boat, same year, had the same problem.
I was able to keep moving the switch up and down and it finally went up. For some reason, starting the boat seemed to increase the likelihood it would open. If that fails, there are two carpeted boards between the hull-side and the seat (that keep the empty beer cans from rolling behind the seat into the engine compartment), that may be loose. If they are, you can push them in to gain access. But, you have to be really thin or have a small mechanically inclined child to get through.
You may end up having to take the hinges off, but hopefully they don’t have nuts on the back, otherwise you’ll be drilling them out.
Does the hatch also stick on the port side a bit on the way up? I finally got my electric ram rebuilt although it still sticks occasionally. The pad may need the hinge mounting blocks replaced or maybe all the wood at this point.
Ken
Been there, done that. I have the same boat, same year, had the same problem.
I was able to keep moving the switch up and down and it finally went up. For some reason, starting the boat seemed to increase the likelihood it would open. If that fails, there are two carpeted boards between the hull-side and the seat (that keep the empty beer cans from rolling behind the seat into the engine compartment), that may be loose. If they are, you can push them in to gain access. But, you have to be really thin or have a small mechanically inclined child to get through.
You may end up having to take the hinges off, but hopefully they don’t have nuts on the back, otherwise you’ll be drilling them out.
Does the hatch also stick on the port side a bit on the way up? I finally got my electric ram rebuilt although it still sticks occasionally. The pad may need the hinge mounting blocks replaced or maybe all the wood at this point.
Ken
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While we are on the subject............
I luv my Baja, but the electric ram is the STUPIDEST MOST IGNORANT design I have ever in my 34 years come across. On my 97 232, if the ram shells out, you are S-C-REWED. The hinges are of the hidden type (look nice), and the engine compartment can't be accessed otherwise.
Has anyone ever come up with an idea on how to make a quick release or something for it? My friends Cobalt has a double hinge where the ram meets the hatch, that allows the top to float on the mount, but i don't like that settup either.
what to do.........what to do? my ram is starting to sound a lil noisy, and I can just see a big hole in the side of my boat in my future.!
I luv my Baja, but the electric ram is the STUPIDEST MOST IGNORANT design I have ever in my 34 years come across. On my 97 232, if the ram shells out, you are S-C-REWED. The hinges are of the hidden type (look nice), and the engine compartment can't be accessed otherwise.
Has anyone ever come up with an idea on how to make a quick release or something for it? My friends Cobalt has a double hinge where the ram meets the hatch, that allows the top to float on the mount, but i don't like that settup either.
what to do.........what to do? my ram is starting to sound a lil noisy, and I can just see a big hole in the side of my boat in my future.!
#4
The dreaded hatch ram problem.
Try the obvious first. Actuate the switch up and down with somebody pushing up and down in the back.
Second jumper (with big wire jumpers) directly from the battery to the switch. repeat above.
Mine has a continuous piano hinge, I can knock out the center pin (similar to taking a house door off)
Yes there is a special pin you can use, but a trailer hitch pin drilled through the bolt with wire attached to both the bolt and pin works great.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...323&storeNum=2
Try the obvious first. Actuate the switch up and down with somebody pushing up and down in the back.
Second jumper (with big wire jumpers) directly from the battery to the switch. repeat above.
Mine has a continuous piano hinge, I can knock out the center pin (similar to taking a house door off)
Yes there is a special pin you can use, but a trailer hitch pin drilled through the bolt with wire attached to both the bolt and pin works great.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...323&storeNum=2
#5
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Originally posted by Madmax
While we are on the subject............
I luv my Baja, but the electric ram is the STUPIDEST MOST IGNORANT design I have ever in my 34 years come across. On my 97 232, if the ram shells out, you are S-C-REWED. The hinges are of the hidden type (look nice), and the engine compartment can't be accessed otherwise.
Has anyone ever come up with an idea on how to make a quick release or something for it? My friends Cobalt has a double hinge where the ram meets the hatch, that allows the top to float on the mount, but i don't like that settup either.
what to do.........what to do? my ram is starting to sound a lil noisy, and I can just see a big hole in the side of my boat in my future.!
While we are on the subject............
I luv my Baja, but the electric ram is the STUPIDEST MOST IGNORANT design I have ever in my 34 years come across. On my 97 232, if the ram shells out, you are S-C-REWED. The hinges are of the hidden type (look nice), and the engine compartment can't be accessed otherwise.
Has anyone ever come up with an idea on how to make a quick release or something for it? My friends Cobalt has a double hinge where the ram meets the hatch, that allows the top to float on the mount, but i don't like that settup either.
what to do.........what to do? my ram is starting to sound a lil noisy, and I can just see a big hole in the side of my boat in my future.!
All three of the Baja's I have had, 212 Islander, 272 and the 36 have an extra piece over the rod that allows you to be able to lift the hatch up about 6 to 8 inches so you can reach the pin and pull it out to raise the hatch the rest of the way up and prop it up with something.
I will try and post some pictures, but it is a VERY simple $2 fix.
#6
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You're right dock, mine works the same way. The collar has slots in it so the hatch will move the said 6-8 inches. The important thing to remember is to let go of the switch immediately after the hatch comes down all the way.
#7
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had same problem
started engine had one person lift up hatch
actually yanking on hatch
while i held the button up
got it too move enough
to get a wrench in and unbolted it
now i use a boat pole
check out a formula
use to have a 242
even if the motor failed
you could still lift the hatch
cardoctor
started engine had one person lift up hatch
actually yanking on hatch
while i held the button up
got it too move enough
to get a wrench in and unbolted it
now i use a boat pole
check out a formula
use to have a 242
even if the motor failed
you could still lift the hatch
cardoctor
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Guys Thanks for all your Help. As soon as I get back to the boat this weekend I"ll give them all a try and see what happens or maybe I can get real lucky and not have to ever open the hatch for the rest of the season, YEA RIGHT!!! Thank you all again !