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1988 Top Gun with #6 drives questions

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Old 08-21-2013, 09:52 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by kvogt
OldSchool and Zero Patience. Are your props spinning in or out?
BINGO... another solution. My old boat (now Kreed's) has them spinning out. Switching the drives to spinning inward would A) give it a bigger roostertail and B) pick up some MPH's at top end.


The only problem is that you'll look like an 8 year old trying to dock it!!!!! LMAO!!!! Just kidding. Two years of spinning in was enough for me...much easier to handle around the docks when they are spinning outward! With engines that idle well it wouldn't be that much more difficult to spin them in. You just have to use the throttles to get it to react.
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Last edited by OldSchool; 08-21-2013 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:10 AM
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Would he have to chnage the transom Assy's to go from wet to dry sump?

If not, this seems like the highest ROI.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:19 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by kreed
cant afford 8 to 10K for props.
I think Zero Patience already answered this for you... If you move them up to 1" above like his are you will be buying 10K props..... Like he is lol
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:39 AM
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Interesting thread, I had a sweet rooster when the drives were about 1/2" above the bottom but planning was a real *****. Spaced down 2" , lost all of my rooster, planning was better but still took close to a 5K burnout to get on plane with a 17.5x28 5 blade. Never had enough time on that turning out set up as the drives took a dump.

When I got the drives back I turned em IN and now it planes at 3500rpm . Still no rooster even with drive all the way out . Can`t get more than 5300rpm and it takes a bit to get there so I`m over propped.
Tried 2 sets of 17x29 4 blades one wouldn`t plane at all the other took like 10 minutes.

Docking is not the greatest but its not horrible turning in.. with the bow lifting turning IN combo at lower speeds I can`t go much past 2 or 3 on the drive indicators. It will porpoise until I pick up more speed.

Kris`s boat side by side will fly way straighter than mine.. not comparing apples to apples as he has Arnesons , not sure what difference that makes...
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:56 AM
  #25  
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No need to buy $10K props, give somebody a deposit on a used set and keep doing this until you find what you need and buy a used set of 5 blades for $3-5K. buying a new set of props is like lighting a stack of $5000K worth of hundreds on fire because the second you use them they are worth $5K.....It amazes me how much money people can spend in this sport and scare the rest of the people out of it. It just takes some common sense buying stuff and making sure you are getting the best possible deal on things instead of just walking into a place and paying retail. Chissle, chissle, chissle, and you are hundreds of thousands of $$$$ ahead of the retail idiots after a couple years...
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:48 PM
  #26  
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My 1990 Kevlar Gun had 1.5 gears and 2" spacers in the drives, turning in, when I purchased it. The boat was rigged by TNT, not a backyard mechanic. About 2 years later, I installed 1" spacers, which raised the drives to about 1/4" below the hull (not the notch). I ran labbed 17 x 32 four blades turning in. Zero slip getting up on plane and cruised 65 GPS at 3800. The boat may have picked up 1 mph on top, but lost nothing in cruise. It may have lost a little stability in the rough. Turning out offered more rough water stability in a quartering sea. I never got around to removing the spacer entirely. The boat probably had better all around performance with the drives 1-1/4 deep.

I have been running Cigs for 25 years.....never have owned a straight bottom that set any speed records. In my opinion, your boat is hauling ass for 750's....GO ENJOY IT. If you can simply remove a spacer to raise up, give it a shot. I would be interested in your findings,
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:02 PM
  #27  
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On your outdrive question......a Bravo 1 XR consumes 25 HP, a Dry Sump #6 consumes 12HP at 6000RPM. I think a Wet Sump #6 consumes about 55-70HP.

So the conversion to Dry Sumps might gain you 85-110HP TOTAL, but it is a fairly expensive modification. When I checked a few years back, it was approx $5,000 per drive.....now about those $10,000 props It never ends......

Last edited by CignificantOther; 08-21-2013 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:14 PM
  #28  
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My drives turn in, throws a big rooster at wfo, does not dock like it used to, but its ok. As I said I'm still working with finding the right props. Seems to like smaller rake 16 vs 18 or 20. Less porpoise with smaller rake. All porpoise is gone at 60. I set mine up for long distance cruise at 3500 rpm, 17. 5 s gave it 62 mph. Don't run it fast very often. I've got the Skater for fast. The Cigarette if it might get Rough, and long trips.
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Old 08-21-2013, 05:45 PM
  #29  
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Turn props in, convert to dry sump, step up a inch or two in prop pitch to take advantage of the power gain from dry sump conversion. You'll gain top speed, cruising speed, and get a little more rooster tail.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:12 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 302Sport
No need to buy $10K props, give somebody a deposit on a used set and keep doing this until you find what you need and buy a used set of 5 blades for $3-5K. buying a new set of props is like lighting a stack of $5000K worth of hundreds on fire because the second you use them they are worth $5K.....It amazes me how much money people can spend in this sport and scare the rest of the people out of it. It just takes some common sense buying stuff and making sure you are getting the best possible deal on things instead of just walking into a place and paying retail. Chissle, chissle, chissle, and you are hundreds of thousands of $$$$ ahead of the retail idiots after a couple years...
I take a set of those 3-5 k props, make them 17.75 x 33 x 16 rake. 5 blades. Can you ship tomorrow please. I can wire the funds

Last edited by Zero Patience; 08-21-2013 at 08:19 PM.
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