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Old 04-17-2015, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by frickstyle
Wow, that's some serious hardware, my pants are tight!
That's a bit more information than necessary...
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Flamingo 32
Sweet, are you still planning on running your XR lowers?
i am, going to start w 30p bravos. With the drives being kind of deep im hoping it works. Im working on anothe rset of lowers to blueprint but the stock ones will give me a baseline. Honestly the boat responds well with stock props, the only reason i had labbed was i needed the rpms, now with the whipples that shouldnt be an issue.
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Old 04-18-2015, 09:12 AM
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Looking good now bolt it up !!
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Old 04-18-2015, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Quinlan
[ATTACH=CONFIG]540025[/ATTACH]

Very Sweet!! I am taking the spacer out of mine. I just hope I can get out of the Hole!! Mine are on Stellings boxes
hope that helps. I hear the t/s need some help because of high xdims, that they are "stuck" until thry break loose.
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Old 04-19-2015, 08:45 PM
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Why the decision to go with new transom assemblies? Why not just use the upgraded Imco Gimble ring?
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Old 04-19-2015, 09:42 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by richanton
Why the decision to go with new transom assemblies? Why not just use the upgraded Imco Gimble ring?
I was thinking the same thing, they do look a lot beefier though
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:01 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by richanton
Why the decision to go with new transom assemblies? Why not just use the upgraded Imco Gimble ring?
they were the original assemblies that came with the boat. Even though they were in great shape, im going to be hanging heavier drives, helmets and stuff on the back as well as much more horsepower and torque. I just felt that someone with a smaller boat and less horsepower would be able to get more use from them. I also had a friend that had scxs broke a gimbal ring and nearly sunk. Everything from imco is engineered to work together. I like to overbuild and be safer.
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Old 04-21-2015, 04:12 PM
  #68  
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[QUOTE=offshoredrillin;4293630]hope that helps. I hear the t/s need some help because of high xdims, that they are "stuck" until thry break loose.[/QUOTE
I put the Imco SCX's with XR lowers on mine when I repowered with the Zul's and adding the spacer helped. Then I changed the lowers to the Imco SC lower with a 1" spacer and boat was acting strange. It did not want to get on plane and I lost speed. We removed the spacer and now it pops right up on plane and gained 3 mph. Go figure. All I will say is there are a lot of variables so there is always dial in time needed. Rob the Tiger is going to be awesome! Can't wait for the end result. Good luck!
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:43 PM
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Thanks frank, im excited as well. Step hulls like high x and straights like drives deeper. The big difference is how a t/s acts while getting on plane. My boat has always popped right up with tabs down and drives tucked so im anticipating the same just a lttle less tuck with the hp/tq and bigger props.

also as i mentioned earlier in the thread craig at wilsons said the xr is the more hydrodynamic of the 3 lowers, maybe that had something to do with the spacer difference between xr and sc lowers.

Last edited by offshoredrillin; 04-21-2015 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 04-21-2015, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by offshoredrillin
mine are 509s with cnc afr 335s. 741 cam with dual swap (8.1 firing order) 8.6 compression, with the 4.0 litres and 8 lbs boost... Most estimates are 900-1000... Bob Madera said i could fall face first into 1000 if i tune it properly.

i like the looks of the hardin and the way you painted them.
1.9hp/ci is totally doable especially with a Whipple. Plus if Butthurt Bobby says so it must be true! Good luck.
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