F34
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F34
Interested in maybe buying one, but would like to hear some comments on the way they run. I'm gonna get a ride in one later this month. I Was told the 34 has hopping issues. I've had a 22 and 25 Daytona that hopped and I just drove through it about 75mph and it went away.
Exactly what does this hull do and at what speed?
Exactly what does this hull do and at what speed?
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Talk to Tony at DCB first. It depends on the generation/version of the bottom. First generation was horrible, every bit as bad as early 33 Eliminator Daytona. I mean horrible and no driving through it. Dave made some bottom updates that helped but as I know it they never really got the 34 bottom to work right which is why they discontinued the 34. Some people put tunnel tabs on to help but tunnel tabs have inherent problems of their own and can be unsafe.
If you want a used DCB in that size range I suggest you look at the F32, the F32 does EVERYTHING right! There are quite a few really nice F32's for sale but many of them have sold the last couple months.
If you want a used DCB in that size range I suggest you look at the F32, the F32 does EVERYTHING right! There are quite a few really nice F32's for sale but many of them have sold the last couple months.
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I've driven a couple now, and the first one I drove was pretty bad. The second one I drove in Lake Cumberland last weekend had Imco drives on it was not much better. I really had to use the tunnel tab and that did not help the hopping very much in my opinion.
I think with the right setup the 34 could run decent, but it requires doing a lot of fiberglass work to the tune of about $15,000 to $20,000, plus a bunch of other things. So at the end of the day, about $30,000 of work needs to be done after buying one. Then the time involved to test, test, test, travel to shops, and so on. If I buy one, and that means changing drives, props, and a lot of fiberglass work, I will do it and find the sweet spot.
I haven't bought one yet, but may be close on making a deal, otherwise I'll buy an F29 my wife wants.
I think with the right setup the 34 could run decent, but it requires doing a lot of fiberglass work to the tune of about $15,000 to $20,000, plus a bunch of other things. So at the end of the day, about $30,000 of work needs to be done after buying one. Then the time involved to test, test, test, travel to shops, and so on. If I buy one, and that means changing drives, props, and a lot of fiberglass work, I will do it and find the sweet spot.
I haven't bought one yet, but may be close on making a deal, otherwise I'll buy an F29 my wife wants.
Last edited by gordyd4; 09-15-2014 at 10:34 PM.
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When I bought this F34 and before any of the changes I made to it, the boat would porpoise from 70 to 90mph. I could drive through it, but I had to use the tab to minimize the porpoise. I was ok with driving through it, but I knew I could make it better.
So a year later I now have an F34 that has no porpoise from 70-90 mph! Pretty exiting that I have found the magic setup. Yah, they are heavy, but these are bad ass boats for the money, and to me one of the best looking DCB's.
Well after trying many different setups on the F34, I think I have this just about right. Changed the drive height some, tweaked the props slightly, and I did some changes to the tunnel tab. I really did not like the feeling of driving with the tunnel tab that had more adjustment than I really needed. So I made a change to it.
One of the major things I did before anything was to limit the amount of travel the tunnel tab has. To me, it was absurd and dangerous in my opinion that the tab would move down as far as it did.
I took the rams off and machined aluminum plugs and installed the limit plugs inside on both the up and down side of each ram. Now the rams will only move the tab the amount needed and no further. So much safer now. I've driven several boats with tabs and non of them were setup for the limited travel. To me, that is so dangerous to allow a tab to travel more than is needed.
However, six months later after I changed the Tab, I find I don't need the Tab any longer. With all the changes to the boat, it no longer porpoises from 70-90mph. I can actually cruise the boat at 85mph and it rides incredible. Those big rollers from the wake board boats are nothing for this F34's ride. Thinking about taking the tab off and putting a nice swim platform on the back between the drives now.
So a year later I now have an F34 that has no porpoise from 70-90 mph! Pretty exiting that I have found the magic setup. Yah, they are heavy, but these are bad ass boats for the money, and to me one of the best looking DCB's.
Well after trying many different setups on the F34, I think I have this just about right. Changed the drive height some, tweaked the props slightly, and I did some changes to the tunnel tab. I really did not like the feeling of driving with the tunnel tab that had more adjustment than I really needed. So I made a change to it.
One of the major things I did before anything was to limit the amount of travel the tunnel tab has. To me, it was absurd and dangerous in my opinion that the tab would move down as far as it did.
I took the rams off and machined aluminum plugs and installed the limit plugs inside on both the up and down side of each ram. Now the rams will only move the tab the amount needed and no further. So much safer now. I've driven several boats with tabs and non of them were setup for the limited travel. To me, that is so dangerous to allow a tab to travel more than is needed.
However, six months later after I changed the Tab, I find I don't need the Tab any longer. With all the changes to the boat, it no longer porpoises from 70-90mph. I can actually cruise the boat at 85mph and it rides incredible. Those big rollers from the wake board boats are nothing for this F34's ride. Thinking about taking the tab off and putting a nice swim platform on the back between the drives now.
Last edited by gordyd4; 08-06-2015 at 05:12 PM.
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Last edited by gordyd4; 08-07-2015 at 11:35 AM.