500 EFI Oil Change Please help!
04-13-2009, 08:33 AM
#11
21 and 42 footers
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Will this pump work for MERC 500EFI's?
I am pretty sure it will---anyone know where they might be on sale?
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...9&classNum=170
I am pretty sure it will---anyone know where they might be on sale?
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...9&classNum=170
04-13-2009, 09:47 AM
#13
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If you punch a hole in the oil filter the night before you perform your oil change, then you are changing oil while cold?
Also, any pointers as to the best way not to have oil spill all over when taking off a vertical filter that is "upside down"? I'd prefer to warm up the engine before changing the oil.
Also, any pointers as to the best way not to have oil spill all over when taking off a vertical filter that is "upside down"? I'd prefer to warm up the engine before changing the oil.
04-13-2009, 01:28 PM
#14
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Run the Engine
Before you begin an oil change, the engine should be hot. Warm oil is easier to suck through a rubber hose or copper straw, but the reason for running the engine is more essential than that. You are changing the oil because it is contaminated with abrasive and chemical impurities. But the dirt in oil is just like dirt in water; leave it undisturbed and it settles to the bottom. Suck out the cold oil and much of the dirt stays behind, immediately contaminating the fresh oil and defeating the whole purpose of the oil change. Run the engine and get all of the contaminants in suspension so they come out with the oil.
Through the Dipstick Tube
Many marine engines simply don't have a drain plug, or it is too inaccessible even for a hose connection. Draining the oil from these engines requires a pump to suck it out through the dipstick tube.
On some engines the dipstick tube is threaded. The supplied oil-change pump screws directly to the dipstick tube and the oil is removed with a few pulls on the handle. This works fine where there is good access. Otherwise, you can mount the pump to a convenient bulkhead and connect it to the dipstick with a hose with threaded fittings-essentially a very short garden hose. Mount a short length of PVC pipe fitted with a male hose adapter next to the pump to provide a place to "park" the hose when not in use.
Where the dipstick tube is not threaded, you have to use a pick-up tube inserted through the dipstick tube to extract the oil. Most pick-up tubes furnished with oil-change pumps are unnecessarily small. Replacing them with 1/4-inch (ID) copper tubing changes this common method of oil removal from agonizing to amazing. Be sure the tube is long enough to reach the bottom of the engine oil pan, and connect it to your pump with a length of rubber hose. Again, mounting the pump to a bulkhead eases the process. Also mount a length of PVC pipe, capped at the bottom, to sheath the pick-up tube.
Change the Filter
Regardless of manufacturer's recommendations, change the oil filter every time you change the oil.
Virtually every other filter you will encounter sits vertically so the fluid it contains does not spill when the filter is opened, but for some reason that totally eludes me, engine designers mount oil filters at an angle, horizontally, even upside down. You can guess what happens when you open them. For all but the upside down variety, you can contain the spilling oil by slipping a freezer bag over the filter and unscrewing the filter inside the bag. Bag it before you break the seal.
Most oil filters are the "spin-on" variety. You need a strap wrench to remove them. Strap wrenches grip the canister when pressure is applied to the handle. If the wrench slips, take it off the filter and reverse it; it only works in one direction. Coat the gasket of the new filter lightly with oil before screwing it in place. Hand tighten it until the gasket makes full contact, then tighten it another 3/4 of a turn.
Some older engines are equipped with cartridge type oil filters. A center bolt typically holds the filter housing in place. Release the bolt and remove the canister. Empty it and discard the old cartridge. Clean the housing with diesel fuel (or kerosene) and insert the new cartridge. If a separate sealing ring is included with the cartridge, carefully pry the old seal out of its seat by *****ing it with a straight pin. Coat the new seal with oil and push it into position. Reinstall the canister.
Pour in Fresh Oil
The last step in every oil change is pouring in the fresh oil. Your engine manual will give you the viscosity and API rating for the oil recommended by the manufacturer. Screw-top containers make it simple to pour the oil into the filler opening on top of the engine, provided there is ample room to turn up the container. If not, you can avoid a lot of irritation by using a funnel and a piece of hose and to get the oil from the container to the engine.
Make generous use of oil-absorbent pads when draining and filling engine oil. Remember that even a sheen on the water from your bilge pump discharge can cost you dearly.
Last but not least, now that you have cleaned up and wiped down the engine you need to check for leaks. Start the engine and run at idle speed while checking for oil pressure. Now check for any oil leaks, particularly at the oil filter that you just replaced. If all looks good, pat yourself on the back and happy boating!
Before you begin an oil change, the engine should be hot. Warm oil is easier to suck through a rubber hose or copper straw, but the reason for running the engine is more essential than that. You are changing the oil because it is contaminated with abrasive and chemical impurities. But the dirt in oil is just like dirt in water; leave it undisturbed and it settles to the bottom. Suck out the cold oil and much of the dirt stays behind, immediately contaminating the fresh oil and defeating the whole purpose of the oil change. Run the engine and get all of the contaminants in suspension so they come out with the oil.
Through the Dipstick Tube
Many marine engines simply don't have a drain plug, or it is too inaccessible even for a hose connection. Draining the oil from these engines requires a pump to suck it out through the dipstick tube.
On some engines the dipstick tube is threaded. The supplied oil-change pump screws directly to the dipstick tube and the oil is removed with a few pulls on the handle. This works fine where there is good access. Otherwise, you can mount the pump to a convenient bulkhead and connect it to the dipstick with a hose with threaded fittings-essentially a very short garden hose. Mount a short length of PVC pipe fitted with a male hose adapter next to the pump to provide a place to "park" the hose when not in use.
Where the dipstick tube is not threaded, you have to use a pick-up tube inserted through the dipstick tube to extract the oil. Most pick-up tubes furnished with oil-change pumps are unnecessarily small. Replacing them with 1/4-inch (ID) copper tubing changes this common method of oil removal from agonizing to amazing. Be sure the tube is long enough to reach the bottom of the engine oil pan, and connect it to your pump with a length of rubber hose. Again, mounting the pump to a bulkhead eases the process. Also mount a length of PVC pipe, capped at the bottom, to sheath the pick-up tube.
Change the Filter
Regardless of manufacturer's recommendations, change the oil filter every time you change the oil.
Virtually every other filter you will encounter sits vertically so the fluid it contains does not spill when the filter is opened, but for some reason that totally eludes me, engine designers mount oil filters at an angle, horizontally, even upside down. You can guess what happens when you open them. For all but the upside down variety, you can contain the spilling oil by slipping a freezer bag over the filter and unscrewing the filter inside the bag. Bag it before you break the seal.
Most oil filters are the "spin-on" variety. You need a strap wrench to remove them. Strap wrenches grip the canister when pressure is applied to the handle. If the wrench slips, take it off the filter and reverse it; it only works in one direction. Coat the gasket of the new filter lightly with oil before screwing it in place. Hand tighten it until the gasket makes full contact, then tighten it another 3/4 of a turn.
Some older engines are equipped with cartridge type oil filters. A center bolt typically holds the filter housing in place. Release the bolt and remove the canister. Empty it and discard the old cartridge. Clean the housing with diesel fuel (or kerosene) and insert the new cartridge. If a separate sealing ring is included with the cartridge, carefully pry the old seal out of its seat by *****ing it with a straight pin. Coat the new seal with oil and push it into position. Reinstall the canister.
Pour in Fresh Oil
The last step in every oil change is pouring in the fresh oil. Your engine manual will give you the viscosity and API rating for the oil recommended by the manufacturer. Screw-top containers make it simple to pour the oil into the filler opening on top of the engine, provided there is ample room to turn up the container. If not, you can avoid a lot of irritation by using a funnel and a piece of hose and to get the oil from the container to the engine.
Make generous use of oil-absorbent pads when draining and filling engine oil. Remember that even a sheen on the water from your bilge pump discharge can cost you dearly.
Last but not least, now that you have cleaned up and wiped down the engine you need to check for leaks. Start the engine and run at idle speed while checking for oil pressure. Now check for any oil leaks, particularly at the oil filter that you just replaced. If all looks good, pat yourself on the back and happy boating!
good job
04-13-2009, 07:07 PM
#15
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Did it all myself today-I had a hand dill pump which is not the easy way to go but it worked, but in 6 qts of Mobil I Syn oil ran and did a leak check, then added another 1 qt and everything seems fine. I used the handy sticky on this site to cross reference the Oil Filters and found the Mobile I is an exact match.
14 Qts of Mobil I 10-30 Syn $65.00
2 Mobil I Oil Filters $45.00
1 Electric Drill Oil removeable pump ($45.00)
....satisfaction I did it myself....PRICELESS!
14 Qts of Mobil I 10-30 Syn $65.00
2 Mobil I Oil Filters $45.00
1 Electric Drill Oil removeable pump ($45.00)
....satisfaction I did it myself....PRICELESS!
10-06-2009, 11:37 PM
#17
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I think 51620 is the regular filter. Not sure what PN the extra capacity oil filter is. Did you try www.amsoil.com?
10-07-2009, 08:01 AM
#18
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I think 51620 is the regular filter. Not sure what PN the extra capacity oil filter is. Did you try www.amsoil.com?
12-22-2009, 08:08 PM
#19
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To punch a whole use a awl or center punch right in the middle no shavings.
Amsoil filter# is EAO24(1 quart filter) or EAO76(2quart filter)
Has anyone ever tried putting hose on drain plug with quick disconnect then use a 110volt fluid pump to pull it out? I'm thinging of trying it, but would like to see someone elses idea if it's been done.
Amsoil filter# is EAO24(1 quart filter) or EAO76(2quart filter)
Has anyone ever tried putting hose on drain plug with quick disconnect then use a 110volt fluid pump to pull it out? I'm thinging of trying it, but would like to see someone elses idea if it's been done.
01-16-2010, 10:42 PM
#20
There is no drain plug on a 500 EFI???
Why is that??
How do you get ALL the oil out?
My 454 Magnum can't get any oil via a pump, I even took it to a marina, no luck, so I took the drain plug out, and put a conversion kit, an elbow with a 3' tube and you put that through the drain plug (or if in the water, connect that to the pump) works fantastic!! That should be stock on all motors!!
Why is that??
How do you get ALL the oil out?
My 454 Magnum can't get any oil via a pump, I even took it to a marina, no luck, so I took the drain plug out, and put a conversion kit, an elbow with a 3' tube and you put that through the drain plug (or if in the water, connect that to the pump) works fantastic!! That should be stock on all motors!!
