Full Force

Thats what i did, I had .003 on mains 1-4 and .0035 on rear with standard pumps, not enough...

redstinger

Is their a plug on the remote oil filter housing somewhere where the sender goes?

Full Force

There should be, what type do you have? or you can plumb it by the block adaptor, or in the block itself.

redstinger

ok I see where the plug is on the remote oil filter housing. easy enough. took the boat out today, cold pressure at 3500 rpm 50 psi. then down to 40 when hot, 10-20psi idle hot.

I'm going to just run it until it dies. Then it gives me a good excuse to go 496 or a new 502 block.

DareDevil

Sorry ,i did not get back sooner. But you found it.
Ithink its a waist of $ if you kill it.
Just rebuilt and beef up a little , can be done in 1 week and alot cheaper then new.

redstinger

I hear ya, but pulling the motor is not a trivial repair. I've done it several times on my Chris Craft, so not afraid of it, but I think I'll try to get another season out of it, and then if i starting hearing noise or the oil pressure drops down further, then I'll pull it.

copiercat

so is it better to pull the oil temp reading from the filter, or like my set up has a threaded sender on top of the pan ?

redstinger

ok just put all new gauges in the boat. 30-40 psi idling cold.40-50 at 3500 rpm cold, but after it heats up, 40 is the max pressure, sometimes its 30 at around 3500-4000 rpm. needle fluctuates a little sometimes when idling. might give a new sender a try since it is 19 yrs old.

Jeff P31

Take the sender out and put in a real pressure gauge. If it still reads low put sae 40 and a bottle of lucas in it . I had the same problem with my 2550 at 250 hours . Sold it this summer with 750 hours on it and it's still running fine . Just my .02

Griff

I would definately verify the pressure readings with a mech guage before you pull the engine. Also, you need to run the correct that matches the guage you have installed.