Budget Boat Build 233 Eclipse
#61
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Location: Essex Junction, Vermont
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for the lifters, you need to make sure they are primed with oil before setting the 1/4 turn. typically soaking them in oil for a couple days is one way. another way is to set them to zero lash and crank the motor with the valve covers off, slowly tightnening the poly lock until no more "clatter" (this insures zero lash), then put 1/4 turn (because the engine is running, lifters will be primed). another thing to make sure of is that you were setting the lifters while at TDC for that cylinder...
tip: if you think you will have an oil mess with the valve covers off, pre cut some cardboard to stand up on the out sides of the head to keep the oil contained. in my experience, it is an un needed step, though i have heard stories of oil flying!!
tip: if you think you will have an oil mess with the valve covers off, pre cut some cardboard to stand up on the out sides of the head to keep the oil contained. in my experience, it is an un needed step, though i have heard stories of oil flying!!
I don't get it.
#62
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Location: Hernando, Fl
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hmm you are beyond me. i have never heard of a hydraulic lifter of any brand that didnt need to be primed. are you sure that you have the right length pushrods? the lifters should be able to "absorb" the 1/4 turn in their "hydraulic movement range"(dont know the technical terms) if they are true hydraulic and are primed correctly. also, are you positive that you dont have valves with longer stems ( i know they make them +.100 maybe others as well)
there are only three possibilites really, pushrods too long, valve stems too long, or incorrect lifters (maybe packaged wrong??)
someone else chime in and teach me something if I am overlooking anything!!
there are only three possibilites really, pushrods too long, valve stems too long, or incorrect lifters (maybe packaged wrong??)
someone else chime in and teach me something if I am overlooking anything!!
#63
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Location: West Suffield
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Cool project,
Sounds like you are either not on the cam base circle or setting 0 lash when the lifter is fully collapsed/fully pumped up.
I would;
-loosen both #1 rockers
-set to TDC #1
-slowly tighten #1 ex. rocker nut WHILE spinning the pushrod with your fingers. At the point you feel the pushrod give you slight resistance, you have 0 lash. Do not overpower the plunger in the lifter.
Then add your quarter turn.
-Do #1 in.
If you valve moves at all, your soaking may have caused the lifter to act soild, the reason companies do not want you to soak or pump up.
They do not bleed down easily, back off the quarter turn + so you can get it started. Once started the pressure will bleed off and the valve train will become noisy. shut it down and reset all of them.
This is less than ideal since break in of a hydraulic flat tappet is critical in keeping the cam lobes alive........
Don't forget your break in lube and instructions for break in (RPM to keep lifters rotating).
Hope it helps
Sounds like you are either not on the cam base circle or setting 0 lash when the lifter is fully collapsed/fully pumped up.
I would;
-loosen both #1 rockers
-set to TDC #1
-slowly tighten #1 ex. rocker nut WHILE spinning the pushrod with your fingers. At the point you feel the pushrod give you slight resistance, you have 0 lash. Do not overpower the plunger in the lifter.
Then add your quarter turn.
-Do #1 in.
If you valve moves at all, your soaking may have caused the lifter to act soild, the reason companies do not want you to soak or pump up.
They do not bleed down easily, back off the quarter turn + so you can get it started. Once started the pressure will bleed off and the valve train will become noisy. shut it down and reset all of them.
This is less than ideal since break in of a hydraulic flat tappet is critical in keeping the cam lobes alive........
Don't forget your break in lube and instructions for break in (RPM to keep lifters rotating).
Hope it helps
#64
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I would set them loose like zero or a little open. then adjust with the engine running. If you crank them down too fast you can feel the engine miss so you have to turn them in slow. I have a set of clips that snap over the rocker oil hole and deflect the oil down into the rocker arm. It's messy and makes a lot of smoke but you will only have to do it once.
#65
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a little off the current topic but i was wondering if you had your block decked and did you degree the cam during installation? I know this not relevant to your current dilema but i was considering having it done to my build
#66
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I did have the block decked. I did not degree the cam. I didn't feel it necessary for what I was trying to get out of this engine.
#67
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Cool project,
Sounds like you are either not on the cam base circle or setting 0 lash when the lifter is fully collapsed/fully pumped up.
I would;
-loosen both #1 rockers
-set to TDC #1
-slowly tighten #1 ex. rocker nut WHILE spinning the pushrod with your fingers. At the point you feel the pushrod give you slight resistance, you have 0 lash. Do not overpower the plunger in the lifter.
Then add your quarter turn.
-Do #1 in.
If you valve moves at all, your soaking may have caused the lifter to act soild, the reason companies do not want you to soak or pump up.
They do not bleed down easily, back off the quarter turn + so you can get it started. Once started the pressure will bleed off and the valve train will become noisy. shut it down and reset all of them.
This is less than ideal since break in of a hydraulic flat tappet is critical in keeping the cam lobes alive........
Don't forget your break in lube and instructions for break in (RPM to keep lifters rotating).
Hope it helps
Sounds like you are either not on the cam base circle or setting 0 lash when the lifter is fully collapsed/fully pumped up.
I would;
-loosen both #1 rockers
-set to TDC #1
-slowly tighten #1 ex. rocker nut WHILE spinning the pushrod with your fingers. At the point you feel the pushrod give you slight resistance, you have 0 lash. Do not overpower the plunger in the lifter.
Then add your quarter turn.
-Do #1 in.
If you valve moves at all, your soaking may have caused the lifter to act soild, the reason companies do not want you to soak or pump up.
They do not bleed down easily, back off the quarter turn + so you can get it started. Once started the pressure will bleed off and the valve train will become noisy. shut it down and reset all of them.
This is less than ideal since break in of a hydraulic flat tappet is critical in keeping the cam lobes alive........
Don't forget your break in lube and instructions for break in (RPM to keep lifters rotating).
Hope it helps
#69
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Broke in the cam and got it pretty well dialed in. currently set @ 39 degrees total advance. Idles real nice @ 720 rpm has that great lopy sound. Time to clean up the rigging and put some carpet in.