BBC crossover???
#1
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Who sells a crossover with a threaded end for AN fittings in order to run nice braided lines? The one I have now has a slip on style end AND faces the opposite direction of what I would like. Also whats with the crossovers that have a hose running from the middle of the crossover and then up to the thermostat housing???
#2
Lakeside Restorations.com
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I offer them in a -16an inlet size.
The small hose that goes on top of some t-stat housings is to allow some water to go on top of a t-stat is there to do 2 things on those style set ups. It's intent is to help keep the thermostat immersed in water so it can operate easier, and to help let some water go to the exhaust when the thermostat is no open, or open enough.
The problem with those set ups is in almost every case I have seen it works horribly. The little hose is no where near enough water volume to keep the exhaust system cool or full, secondly with the cold incoming water getting dumped on the thermostat it "fakes out" the thermostat many times into thinking the engine is cold, when in fact it is not.
What usually then ends up happening is the temp sweeps rapidly and to extremes which is the opposite of what you would want. Also when the t-stat is closed the temp usually builds higher than you want and in some cases the water pressure climbs enough to start walking cooling hoses off on some set ups.. Again not what you would want...
Crossovers do work and can aid in gettig you some extra power, however I am not a big advocate of using the t-stat equipped ones. I would recomend either using it without a tstat, or just staying with the oem set up if you dont want to not run a t-stat..
Hope it helps...
Jamie / Lakeside
The small hose that goes on top of some t-stat housings is to allow some water to go on top of a t-stat is there to do 2 things on those style set ups. It's intent is to help keep the thermostat immersed in water so it can operate easier, and to help let some water go to the exhaust when the thermostat is no open, or open enough.
The problem with those set ups is in almost every case I have seen it works horribly. The little hose is no where near enough water volume to keep the exhaust system cool or full, secondly with the cold incoming water getting dumped on the thermostat it "fakes out" the thermostat many times into thinking the engine is cold, when in fact it is not.
What usually then ends up happening is the temp sweeps rapidly and to extremes which is the opposite of what you would want. Also when the t-stat is closed the temp usually builds higher than you want and in some cases the water pressure climbs enough to start walking cooling hoses off on some set ups.. Again not what you would want...
Crossovers do work and can aid in gettig you some extra power, however I am not a big advocate of using the t-stat equipped ones. I would recomend either using it without a tstat, or just staying with the oem set up if you dont want to not run a t-stat..
Hope it helps...
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#3
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mine ran way to cold with no therm about 120 at best..added a by-pass and 140 therm with a couple of 1/8 holes drilled in it...works far better..warmes to 150 and stays there...took away condensation in the valve covers...
#4
Lakeside Restorations.com
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Or you can get a similar result with using a restrictor plate instead.. It just slows the flow a bit to help you gain some heat with a crossover. We have used these with good results..
J
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We Make Fast Toys Faster, Cool Toys Cooler and Old Toys New!.. Performance, Custom & OEM Parts & much MORE![/CENTER]
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We Make Fast Toys Faster, Cool Toys Cooler and Old Toys New!.. Performance, Custom & OEM Parts & much MORE![/CENTER]
#6
Lakeside Restorations.com
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You can put a stainless or brass plug in that port, or a pick up for water pressure if you dont want to use a bypass hose. Most crossovers have that hole, ours included..
J
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We Make Fast Toys Faster, Cool Toys Cooler and Old Toys New!.. Performance, Custom & OEM Parts & much MORE![/CENTER]
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#7
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when I bought mine it had a 140 thermostat with the holes drilled.
I could never get over 120 heat in the motor. I switched to a 180 thermostat, drilled a couple 1/8 holes in it, and still only get to about 150 degrees.
could never get the oil hot either, so i installed an oil thermostat. Only got to run it twice since the oil thermostat, but it seemed to help.
I'm hoping it takes away my condensation issue.
I could never get over 120 heat in the motor. I switched to a 180 thermostat, drilled a couple 1/8 holes in it, and still only get to about 150 degrees.
could never get the oil hot either, so i installed an oil thermostat. Only got to run it twice since the oil thermostat, but it seemed to help.
I'm hoping it takes away my condensation issue.
#8
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I have the Stainless Marine crossover with the bypass. I run a Stewart 160 high flow thermostat which comes with 3 - 3/16" holes. I run in water temp from 34 degrees (Lake Huron on Memorial weekend) to 70 degree water and it keeps the temps real steady at 150 whether I'm running 80 or idling for hours down the river. The only time it changes is when I go from a long hard run in the cold lake to idle in the warm river, and then it only goes to 180. I did port the water intake on the lower unit to grab more water and hand ported the pump housing to make it more efficient. FWIW