New build 454 stroked
#13
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unless you are getting a "steal" of a price i would steer clear and just look for a 502 setup. the reason being, the 502 has a forged crank, rods and pistons, 4 bolt mains and a roller cam right out of the box.
and, i agree, 10.5 to 1 is a bit too much compression for an iron head marine application.
and, i agree, 10.5 to 1 is a bit too much compression for an iron head marine application.
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Just went through the same motor crap you are doing, I'm on my 4th motor. I would check that block out, if the pistons are still in it measure the deck height, if the decks need cut like mine did, they would not clean up because of rust, the pistons were going to be sticking out of the holes, and on your other post about a stroker kit, well I have did that whole deal twice now, first kit was EAGLE 4.25 stroke, 4340 crank, H beam rods and SRP piston. I can tell you NEVER again EAGLE, nice material but their machine work SUCKS, my brand new crank had to be turned .020 on the rods to fix it, the journals were hour glass shaped and some of the throws were over stroked and some were under stroked - nice crank just not machine work, I called EAGLE and they said I should of sent it back, so that was cool of them, but I already had it turned. But I will tell you, the next kit I pieced it together myself, this time I went with SCAT, once again the 4.25 stroke 4340 crank this time the PRO I-beam rods and ICON pistons and let me just say, me and my machinist were very impressed with everything, the crank was spot on every journal perfect, the rods perfect, it really makes it easy when you go to do the bearing clearances when they are like that!! I was using a dial bore gauge that measure down to .0001 so all I'm saying is from now on I'm a SCAT man!! I went through a MK IV bowtie block (ended up unusable), had to buy a NEW DART BIG M block (ended up giving up on that motor due to too much power. They say the 548 would break a stock BRAVO drive) , I went through a GEN V block (marine motor ended up junk) finally I got a GEN VI block which is perfect. So when I tell you I've went through it, I'm there brother, oh did I mention $12,000 later and still have not got 1 together YET!!!
#17
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One important thing my machinist told me about GEN V and GEN VI blocks that I never thought of is you have to inspect the head bolt threads in the block, especially if it was a marine block because the holes are not blind so water mostly salt water can get to the thread from the back side and rust or corrode the threads, he has had it where the threads were real loose when tapped that when you go and torque the head down the bolt hole strips or pulls out. Just passing it on to you for something eles to keep in mind.
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Not incorrect on the GEN V and GEN VI that I was refering to, but you are right I did not metion the MK IV block, Sorry about that, I should have included The MK IV block as well, you are correct about that one also, my brand new DART block has blind holes no worries there.