AllDodge

You probably have an electric kind of choke but this is not an electric choke you may be thinking of. It doesn't use a choke like you would find on an outboard where there is a "push to choke" feature. There should be a wire going to the choke housing which once your key is turned to ON, this applies 12V to the choke. After a short period of time the 12V heats up the by-metal strip inside the choke and starts opening the choke plate.

Your having trouble starting it after it sits because your carb is leaking and the fuel bowl is drying out. The fuel your seeing on top the intake is verification. The spit and spudder is an issue with the time it takes to fill the fuel bowl, once fuel it runs fine again. Short pumps or long pumps does put more fuel in but this doesn't appear to be the problem with troubles starting. With this you probably should have the carbs gone through and then adjusted correctly.

jamie 10017

The very first thing you need to do is remove the flame arresters and check if there even is a choke in place. Some guys remove the choke flap and others will have the choke horn milled off which the po may have done. Do both engines act the same way ? If not how do they differ ? It's very hard to diagnose over a computer. I'm not giving you a hard time just asking questions so that other may help you. Just to get a idea about the boat have you checked anything else ? The carbs should be the last thing you adjust , need to check timing etc. before the carbs..the reason I say this you didn't say if the engines spin over the same way as when they were cold or if they try to kick back against the starter which could be timing or many other things. As I said I'm not jerking your chain just asking since we are not at the boat so you must be our eyes and ears. Jamie

Playbuoy

Ok here is an updated on the carbs. Pulled both carbs off this morning. They are a Holley 800CFM marine double pumper. Both carbs have chokes but not connected. Spoke with Holley tech, he said the double pumpers pour so much fuel down carb alot of guys do not run chokes. He said I could dump a little gas down carb but isnt necessary becasue I have the "J" tubes on carbs.. They are sending me (2) rebuild kits part #37-485 for $45/pc.. Also a Holley heat shield part #108-70 for $39/pc.. He said this will help with the fuel evaporating from the carb when engines are hot. Also he said run a hard plastic spacer instead of the aluminum spacer for heat disapation. Tech suggested I drain bowls when not running boat for period of more than 3 weeks due to fuel deteriation. Both motors have mechanical fuel pumps. Port carb looked a little dirty on inside. Starboard carb was alot dirtier with a black tint on inside of carb. I did noticed the 1/4" return line from carb to the top of fuel pump was kinked on that motor. Caps, rotors, plugs, and plug wires were changed last June. Have not checked timing. Going to have carbs cleaned up and gone through. Sounds like the hard start when boat sets for a few weeks is a combination of fuel bowl leaking down and no choke. Thanks for advice. Andy

ThisIsLivin

Sounds like an internal leak in the carb. I use a Phenolic tapered 4 hole spacer from Jomar Performance, you will notice the difference in performance first time out.

Playbuoy

I have a 1" aluminum spacer now. What kind of gains did u notice?

Playbuoy

So I was just changing my fuel filters. Dumb question but why do I have electric fuel pumps next to the fuels filters and mechanical fuel pumps on the blocks?

AllDodge

Without seeing your setup I would guess, the boat came with mechanical fuel pumps and electric pumps were added later. Most time this happens block off plates are installed and the mechanical pumps are removed. Are fuel lines going to the mechanical pumps or are they just there?

Playbuoy

The fuel line come from tank. Goes through electric fuel pump(MS brass logo on top of pump). Then fuel filter. Then to mechanical fuel pump(about the size of a hockey puck) on side of block. Then up metal line to carb. All lines are connected to both pumps. I am not mistaking the mechanical fuel pump for something else?? It has a small solenoid with two wires going to it also. I assumed this is fuel pressure switch.

AllDodge

Normally, fuel comes from the tank thru an antisiphon valve, then the filter, then fuel pump to carb. In previous post you mentioned and others confirmed most Cigs have fuel pump switches. So if the MS (brass logo) is a pump and not a solenoid then your boat would have two pumps in line. Two pumps usually doesn't happen unless your talking about EFI, which yours is not. I'll now guess it could be fuel shut off solenoids hooked to an oil pressure switch. When the key is off the fuel is shut off, or if you loose oil pressure it will shut fuel off.

To find out, disconnect the line going to the filter, put it in a container to catch the gas and turn your ignition ON, or start it briefly.

ThisIsLivin

I didn't check 0 to 60 times before and after, but the difference in acceleration was enough that my daughter noticed. I've got so much acceleration now my wife likes to almost drop off plane and then hammer it (yes I know it's hard on the drive, but if she breaks it she can't yell at me for spending money on the boat). All I have to say is you better be holding on or you will find yourself in the water. The phenolic resin keeps the heat away from the carb and the tapered holes helps reduce turbulence. I am running a single plane intake which will make more of a difference than dual plane.