bilge coat or epoxy
#31
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Location: Upstate NY
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#32
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I used Xlnol(something like that) had it in my shop, a wire brush and a hand sander...was not to bad..whoever thought it was a good idea to put carpet where oil may end up should be shot....
#34
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No one mentioned anything about sanding before applying and sanding in between coats. So is sanding not required even between coats ? Also how about some pics of before and after results plus which product you used. THX
#35
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Well, I can say this. My boat is nice. Its old 1994 but looks great. The engine bay looked like a 10 year old built it. All the paint was coming off. Under the motor it was all green raw glass. You know how raw glass starts show strans and hairs. It looked bad. I dont have a pic but trust me bad. I washed it with some dawn dish soap and hot water about three times. Some degreaser and washed again. Let it sit for 24 hours and was dry. Just mixed up a small coffee can half full and ended up tossing some but man oh man did it cover. It looks smooth and is hard. If it was not on my boat I would hit it with a hammer to see how strong it was. I do plan on doing a second coat. Dont think I am going to sand anything. Just want it to not be so dang cold out when I do it. Dry time was around 4 hours to hard as nails. I am very happy. Even more happy that I have under 50 dollars into the gallon and hardener to use it. I think when its all done I will have used just over a pint and a half. It goes on thick and fills any kinda holes or small pits you might have in the glass. I will take a pic before second coat and after. I am sure there are better ways to do this but for the money invested and how it turned out wow.
#36
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I also found if you add a qt of the beige to the gallon of white it makes a perfect match for that off white that a lot of boats are.
Sorry, cant see much of the bilge.![Big Grin](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Sorry, cant see much of the bilge.
![Big Grin](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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