Whipped 500HP re build
05-09-2014, 11:46 PM
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Whipped 500HP re build
Hey gang,
New to the site, actually not quite new but been 7 years and cant even remember my SN or PW....
Anyhoo... 7 years ago my whipple took out the head gaskets of my 500HP after only being on there a short time, very short actually, I know the cause, and I knew better, but being mid summer both my engine guru buddy and the whipple crew felt I could squeak by on 6-7psi for the remainder of the summer wo studding and changing the head gaskets, that was a mistake, and I knew better. Actually kick myself because that engine was bullet proof for 3 summers and with the mild mods and an imco extreme shorter drive and 4 blade prop ran a solid 71-75 Gps before the whipple. I took it all w a grain of salt and figured a nice winter project, long story short I started instructing skydiving on the weekends and the boat has sat the last 7 years and I now have the itch.
My question is basically what would you guys recommend for internals for the rebuild? I had the block fluxed and it was fine, actually the machine shop said since I got it shut down and towed in they could put it back together wo the whipple pretty cheap, but what fun is that? They said the crank had just a very slight tweek to it, but recommend replacing it. I am looking to do it and do it right, sadly even though I fall through the sky, the sky is not the limit, so its a budget conscious build, but I wont cheap out either, it has sat for 7 years so if it takes a whole year to get the right parts so be it. I did have a plan mapped out 7 years ago, but things change, products change and so do build theories. I am not looking to scream every last PSI of boost I can in there, I would be happy near the 10 psi mark to keep it reliable. It is a carb motor.
Also what do any of you recommend for hydro steering? The factory power steering was just getting by before the whipple, but after it was dangerous past 75, anything over that I would clip the tether to me and white knuckle it with both hands, was planning on a Teague setup that winter too, but as I mentioned, its been 7 years! I appreciate any input, and thank you for looking, I spent some time going through some old threads, but some were very old and some not quite what I was looking for. Thanks guys!!!!!!!
New to the site, actually not quite new but been 7 years and cant even remember my SN or PW....
Anyhoo... 7 years ago my whipple took out the head gaskets of my 500HP after only being on there a short time, very short actually, I know the cause, and I knew better, but being mid summer both my engine guru buddy and the whipple crew felt I could squeak by on 6-7psi for the remainder of the summer wo studding and changing the head gaskets, that was a mistake, and I knew better. Actually kick myself because that engine was bullet proof for 3 summers and with the mild mods and an imco extreme shorter drive and 4 blade prop ran a solid 71-75 Gps before the whipple. I took it all w a grain of salt and figured a nice winter project, long story short I started instructing skydiving on the weekends and the boat has sat the last 7 years and I now have the itch.
My question is basically what would you guys recommend for internals for the rebuild? I had the block fluxed and it was fine, actually the machine shop said since I got it shut down and towed in they could put it back together wo the whipple pretty cheap, but what fun is that? They said the crank had just a very slight tweek to it, but recommend replacing it. I am looking to do it and do it right, sadly even though I fall through the sky, the sky is not the limit, so its a budget conscious build, but I wont cheap out either, it has sat for 7 years so if it takes a whole year to get the right parts so be it. I did have a plan mapped out 7 years ago, but things change, products change and so do build theories. I am not looking to scream every last PSI of boost I can in there, I would be happy near the 10 psi mark to keep it reliable. It is a carb motor.
Also what do any of you recommend for hydro steering? The factory power steering was just getting by before the whipple, but after it was dangerous past 75, anything over that I would clip the tether to me and white knuckle it with both hands, was planning on a Teague setup that winter too, but as I mentioned, its been 7 years! I appreciate any input, and thank you for looking, I spent some time going through some old threads, but some were very old and some not quite what I was looking for. Thanks guys!!!!!!!
05-10-2014, 01:11 AM
#2
Charter Member # 55
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If you are going to replace the crank anyway, stroke it to a 540ci. You could run 6-7# of boost and make 700-750hp on pump fuel.
10psi of boost is going to need race fuel.
You better plan on a drive upgrade as well with that much hp.
10psi of boost is going to need race fuel.
You better plan on a drive upgrade as well with that much hp.
05-10-2014, 09:04 AM
#4
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I just put blowers on my 500s this winter. Original plan was stock rebuild and put 4-5#s to them. It then turned into lowering the compression to 7.6, h-beams, arp studs replacing every bolt in them, cams and the list goes on with small stuff. Original heads and about 6#s of boost but i have smaller pullies to get closer to 10#s. Couldn't be happier with the result. Shouldve dynoed them for a number but i didn't. I would guess in the neighborhood of 800-850
05-10-2014, 09:15 AM
#5
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What size whipple are we talking about?
IMO, a stout shortblock assembly would be
Blower specific pistons
H Beam Rods with ARP 2000 bolts
4340 crank
Good rings, Total seal, hellfire, or at least plasma moly style file fit
and most important, good machine work with proper clearances
and a good oil pan setup.
As for the TOP end. The HP500 cam is not a very good blower cam, especially with a small blower. the 110LSA blows some of that boost right out the exhaust. The stock HP500 heads, are mediocre, but can make decent power. The problem with them is the exhaust ports pretty much suck, which is where you need help with forced induction. Not to say the intake port doesn't matter, because it does, but, helping the exhaust side out on a blower deal is very helpful
The key to making good power, RELIABLY, is good internal combination, with low boost, to meet your goals, rather than trying to cram boost into a poorly flowing cam/head package.
IMO, a stout shortblock assembly would be
Blower specific pistons
H Beam Rods with ARP 2000 bolts
4340 crank
Good rings, Total seal, hellfire, or at least plasma moly style file fit
and most important, good machine work with proper clearances
and a good oil pan setup.
As for the TOP end. The HP500 cam is not a very good blower cam, especially with a small blower. the 110LSA blows some of that boost right out the exhaust. The stock HP500 heads, are mediocre, but can make decent power. The problem with them is the exhaust ports pretty much suck, which is where you need help with forced induction. Not to say the intake port doesn't matter, because it does, but, helping the exhaust side out on a blower deal is very helpful
The key to making good power, RELIABLY, is good internal combination, with low boost, to meet your goals, rather than trying to cram boost into a poorly flowing cam/head package.
05-10-2014, 12:27 PM
#6
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Hey gang,
New to the site, actually not quite new but been 7 years and cant even remember my SN or PW....
Anyhoo... 7 years ago my whipple took out the head gaskets of my 500HP after only being on there a short time, very short actually, I know the cause, and I knew better, but being mid summer both my engine guru buddy and the whipple crew felt I could squeak by on 6-7psi for the remainder of the summer wo studding and changing the head gaskets, that was a mistake, and I knew better. Actually kick myself because that engine was bullet proof for 3 summers and with the mild mods and an imco extreme shorter drive and 4 blade prop ran a solid 71-75 Gps before the whipple. I took it all w a grain of salt and figured a nice winter project, long story short I started instructing skydiving on the weekends and the boat has sat the last 7 years and I now have the itch.
My question is basically what would you guys recommend for internals for the rebuild? I had the block fluxed and it was fine, actually the machine shop said since I got it shut down and towed in they could put it back together wo the whipple pretty cheap, but what fun is that? They said the crank had just a very slight tweek to it, but recommend replacing it. I am looking to do it and do it right, sadly even though I fall through the sky, the sky is not the limit, so its a budget conscious build, but I wont cheap out either, it has sat for 7 years so if it takes a whole year to get the right parts so be it. I did have a plan mapped out 7 years ago, but things change, products change and so do build theories. I am not looking to scream every last PSI of boost I can in there, I would be happy near the 10 psi mark to keep it reliable. It is a carb motor.
Also what do any of you recommend for hydro steering? The factory power steering was just getting by before the whipple, but after it was dangerous past 75, anything over that I would clip the tether to me and white knuckle it with both hands, was planning on a Teague setup that winter too, but as I mentioned, its been 7 years! I appreciate any input, and thank you for looking, I spent some time going through some old threads, but some were very old and some not quite what I was looking for. Thanks guys!!!!!!!
New to the site, actually not quite new but been 7 years and cant even remember my SN or PW....
Anyhoo... 7 years ago my whipple took out the head gaskets of my 500HP after only being on there a short time, very short actually, I know the cause, and I knew better, but being mid summer both my engine guru buddy and the whipple crew felt I could squeak by on 6-7psi for the remainder of the summer wo studding and changing the head gaskets, that was a mistake, and I knew better. Actually kick myself because that engine was bullet proof for 3 summers and with the mild mods and an imco extreme shorter drive and 4 blade prop ran a solid 71-75 Gps before the whipple. I took it all w a grain of salt and figured a nice winter project, long story short I started instructing skydiving on the weekends and the boat has sat the last 7 years and I now have the itch.
My question is basically what would you guys recommend for internals for the rebuild? I had the block fluxed and it was fine, actually the machine shop said since I got it shut down and towed in they could put it back together wo the whipple pretty cheap, but what fun is that? They said the crank had just a very slight tweek to it, but recommend replacing it. I am looking to do it and do it right, sadly even though I fall through the sky, the sky is not the limit, so its a budget conscious build, but I wont cheap out either, it has sat for 7 years so if it takes a whole year to get the right parts so be it. I did have a plan mapped out 7 years ago, but things change, products change and so do build theories. I am not looking to scream every last PSI of boost I can in there, I would be happy near the 10 psi mark to keep it reliable. It is a carb motor.
Also what do any of you recommend for hydro steering? The factory power steering was just getting by before the whipple, but after it was dangerous past 75, anything over that I would clip the tether to me and white knuckle it with both hands, was planning on a Teague setup that winter too, but as I mentioned, its been 7 years! I appreciate any input, and thank you for looking, I spent some time going through some old threads, but some were very old and some not quite what I was looking for. Thanks guys!!!!!!!
Find yourself a decent machine shop that is familiar with marine blower motors and how to make them live. Obviously where you took your stuff to has no idea what they are doing... How does a crank have a slight tweak to it? Find someone that knows what they are doing, trustworthy and go with what they tell you to do. That's the best way. Why go on the Internet get 1000 opinions much of which are total crap and then show up in someone's shop that does it for a living and proceed to tell them the best packaged to put together. It's been my experience that going about it that way you don't end up with the best package in the end.
05-12-2014, 02:11 PM
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Sorry for delay, didn't get the notifications?? anyhow Blower is a 3300sc, drive is already beefed, its an imco extreme was built to handle 800HP I would be fine w 7-8psi, although I have great access to 100LL fuel I hate dealing with it, so 91-94 gas preferred. I am all for finding a good machine shop, but my search in the Pittsburgh Pa area has been rough, anyone know of a decent place near here or even Cleveland?
When the guy said the crank was slightly tweaked he was saying I got it shut down before any major damage happened to the block and other internals, he showed me on the balancer a spot that was not perfectly true, at the time he said he could get it back on the water in 2 weeks w a new crank, hone job, fresh rings and a run through the valve train, etc for decent price, with out the blower, my thoughts were that was just wasting 3k to get another 6 weeks before I would tear it down and do it to accept the whipple.
I appreciate the feed back guys!
ps black Baja, was your boat ever in east brady pa? I used to run around with a black 240 w teal interior years ago.
When the guy said the crank was slightly tweaked he was saying I got it shut down before any major damage happened to the block and other internals, he showed me on the balancer a spot that was not perfectly true, at the time he said he could get it back on the water in 2 weeks w a new crank, hone job, fresh rings and a run through the valve train, etc for decent price, with out the blower, my thoughts were that was just wasting 3k to get another 6 weeks before I would tear it down and do it to accept the whipple.
I appreciate the feed back guys!
ps black Baja, was your boat ever in east brady pa? I used to run around with a black 240 w teal interior years ago.
05-12-2014, 07:11 PM
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No, to my knowledge it spent its whole life in the Chesapeake Bay Area. If you are looking for a good machine shop in the Pittsburgh area contact Gary Cygan. You can get his number from his website Cygan speed and Engineering. Hes out of Butler Pa. He can point you to a good machine shop and if you need to dyno your motor he had one at his house and is very reasonable. If you talk to him tell him Paul Z. From Maryland said hey. Gary is a good guy and an efi tuner if you wanted to go that route...
05-13-2014, 12:38 PM
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No, to my knowledge it spent its whole life in the Chesapeake Bay Area. If you are looking for a good machine shop in the Pittsburgh area contact Gary Cygan. You can get his number from his website Cygan speed and Engineering. Hes out of Butler Pa. He can point you to a good machine shop and if you need to dyno your motor he had one at his house and is very reasonable. If you talk to him tell him Paul Z. From Maryland said hey. Gary is a good guy and an efi tuner if you wanted to go that route...
