higer oil temp after rebuild, bypass??
#31
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Toyota FIPG.
I put that $hit on everythiing, including french fries. Made from the best stuff on earth, unicorn powder and the tears of Toyota executives after the gas pedal recall debacle.
I put that $hit on everythiing, including french fries. Made from the best stuff on earth, unicorn powder and the tears of Toyota executives after the gas pedal recall debacle.
#32
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I'd stick your wound in a can of carb clean. You won't worry about the bleeding part of your wound anymore.
#33
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direct from the 500EFI merc manual
Oil temp at 5200RPM=170-180*. (Full throttle)
I dont know how mercury racing got away with those temperatures. On oso, you need 250* oil temps or your engine will get milkshaked, not lubricate properly, and destroy itself. You need to get high oil temps to burn off the water coming in from your poor choice of camshaft selection thats reverting.
Page 76.
http://www.mercuryracing.com/_media/...5010%20500.pdf
Oil temp at 5200RPM=170-180*. (Full throttle)
I dont know how mercury racing got away with those temperatures. On oso, you need 250* oil temps or your engine will get milkshaked, not lubricate properly, and destroy itself. You need to get high oil temps to burn off the water coming in from your poor choice of camshaft selection thats reverting.
Page 76.
http://www.mercuryracing.com/_media/...5010%20500.pdf
#34
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direct from the 500EFI merc manual
Oil temp at 5200RPM=170-180*. (Full throttle)
I dont know how mercury racing got away with those temperatures. On oso, you need 250* oil temps or your engine will get milkshaked, not lubricate properly, and destroy itself. You need to get high oil temps to burn off the water coming in from your poor choice of camshaft selection thats reverting.
Page 76.
http://www.mercuryracing.com/_media/...5010%20500.pdf
Oil temp at 5200RPM=170-180*. (Full throttle)
I dont know how mercury racing got away with those temperatures. On oso, you need 250* oil temps or your engine will get milkshaked, not lubricate properly, and destroy itself. You need to get high oil temps to burn off the water coming in from your poor choice of camshaft selection thats reverting.
Page 76.
http://www.mercuryracing.com/_media/...5010%20500.pdf
I find folks here like to use the old analogy "well it worked for me". Gee that's real scientific and factual... I guess if that is good enough, so be it, however there is science behind the theory of running oil at 212 degrees. Just because "some" big engine builders don't use oil t stats or recommend ones that keep oils temps down in the dumps (with zero supporting/validating data) doesn't mean squat to me. Some of these same builders thought synthetic oil would make lifter followers "slide" on cam lobes..... That one made me laugh first time I saw it.
If cold oil temps work so well for everyone, show some examples of case where warmer 210-215 degree stats damaged an engine. There is plenty of data showing optimal oil temp (212) actually adds to the longevity of an engine, marine or otherwise.
Oh and mild, not an attack on you here, I honestly would like to see some data validating cold oil temps because everything I've seen speaks to the contrary.
Last edited by Borgie; 07-01-2014 at 11:32 PM.
#35
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#36
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And how old is the 500efi now?.... Just saying old design, old thinking. They now use a 210 and I really doubt it has anything to do with tight tolerances etc. I've said it many times, oil has an optimal operating temperature ie 100 degrees Celsius. Doesn't matter if it's fancy synthetic or conventional. Even if you don't get milkshake you still form acids from the moisture present and left over by cold oil temps. Cold oil doesn't lubricate better to a point.
I find folks here like to use the old analogy "well it worked for me". Gee that's real scientific and factual... I guess if that is good enough, so be it, however there is science behind the theory of running oil at 212 degrees. Just because "some" big engine builders don't use oil t stats or recommend ones that keep oils temps down in the dumps (with zero supporting/validating data) doesn't mean squat to me. Some of these same builders thought synthetic oil would make lifter followers "slide" on cam lobes..... That one made me laugh first time I saw it.
If cold oil temps work so well for everyone, show some examples of case where warmer 210-215 degree stats damaged an engine. There is plenty of data showing optimal oil temp (212) actually adds to the longevity of an engine, marine or otherwise.
I find folks here like to use the old analogy "well it worked for me". Gee that's real scientific and factual... I guess if that is good enough, so be it, however there is science behind the theory of running oil at 212 degrees. Just because "some" big engine builders don't use oil t stats or recommend ones that keep oils temps down in the dumps (with zero supporting/validating data) doesn't mean squat to me. Some of these same builders thought synthetic oil would make lifter followers "slide" on cam lobes..... That one made me laugh first time I saw it.
If cold oil temps work so well for everyone, show some examples of case where warmer 210-215 degree stats damaged an engine. There is plenty of data showing optimal oil temp (212) actually adds to the longevity of an engine, marine or otherwise.
You can sit here and argue your theories with me all day long. How many mercury racing engines are out there doing poker runs every weekend, racing on the course, and overall pleasure boaters beating the snot out of them. Compare that to how many borgie engines or mild thunder engines are out there. One thing about mercs engines , they may not be the most powerful , they may not be the best components, and may be overpriced , but one thing they are NOT, is time bombs exploding all the time.
There's more to the story than the simple temp of the oil from a flow/lubricating standpoint. Keeping the valvesprings cooler, pistons cooler, rocker arm bearings, lifter wheel bearings, and other things cooler, might be more beneficial than the viscosity/lubricating deal. Mercury marine has ALOT of money behind them, and a lot of money on the table when it comes to testing, designing , and warranting these engines. Especially the racing engines .
But to get back on topic, 4bus' s buddy who's seeing 230 temps, is outside the manufacturers oil temp specs by quite a margin, which would indicate something isn't functioning as it was designed. 230 temps after the cooler would alarm me also.
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Mercury is using a higher set point for T stats in the news engines as far as I know. Must be a reason... I agree that his oil temps are outside of the recommended range after the oil cooler.
Last edited by Borgie; 07-01-2014 at 11:56 PM.
#38
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where did you get that info? You can go online and compare the oil thermostat part number for every engine they made with an oil thermostat. From the HP500 all the way up.
#39
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FYI the new 1350 also uses the same thermostat element as the 500efi. The 1075sci uses the same element as the hp500, 600sc, 800sc engines from 15 plus years ago. They share a similar housing mounted on the back of the cylinder head hence the different part number the 500efi,700sci, 525efi, 1350, etc. Those use the block mounted deal with internal stat.
#40
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Mild, if u get a cut bad enough that it requires stitches soak a rag in lacquer thinner then wrap it this will get U2 the hospital without bleeding all over the car. For minor cuts (even major) the best thing is super glue, has to be the original. Nice dab of super glue and its back to work. These are the techniques that men use and not for the faint of heart...