Bilge coating?
#22
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Rustoleum but you must use the enamel hardener or it will stay tacky forever.
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71gSsPPTg%2BL._SL1500_.jpg)
http://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625-E.../dp/B000LNY1MY
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71gSsPPTg%2BL._SL1500_.jpg)
http://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625-E.../dp/B000LNY1MY
#24
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I clean with a good degreaser, dawn works well, let dry, scuff with a 3M scrath pad, blow of or wash again, wipe as much as you can get to with a rag soaked with reg alcohol, paint with a cheap brush with temps over 60 deg, let sit until dry and do second coat...done
#25
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+1 on the Rustoleum/Valspar. Looks great and very shiny...slipped and fell a few times while re-rigging the bilge, lol. My experience was slightly concerning with how thin the paint/hardner mixture was. I was covering bare glass and old gray gel (all sanded thoroughly) and at four coats I called it quits but I probably could've done six for better coverage. I did mine in an off-white color and it does show everything! If I were to do it again I would consider a dark color under the motors and white everywhere else to keep things bright (my wife says I need help 'cause I vacuum the bilge regularly). Again, still looks great and cleans very easy. Good luck.
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"A clean and dry bilge is a happy bilge" I want a happy bilge and that is why I'm doing all this work. Thank you to everyone who replied. All good help.
#28
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I used 4200 on every screw that went back in. If I knew I wasn't going to use a hole that was in the bilge somewhere then I filled it. I would mix up a little resin with MEKP and cabisol or sawdust and pack up/fill the hole. Prep sanded the bilge and knocked down those filled holes. Can't tell they were ever there and they're water tight. I considered 5200 but wasn't sure if the Rustoleum would stick and stay over top of the 5200. That's what worked well in my case.