dna

I'm putting on the new rockers. These are different cause they have a nut that tightens the rocker to the arm vs the old set had a stud/bolt. What do I torques this nut to? Google says to torque the stud to 50 lbs, but can't find anything on the nut style. I'm trying to tighten to 50 but it just keeps pushing the spring on the valve down - and I'm not even near 50 lbs yet.

Thanks

dereknkathy

These you adjust. Not torque down. You basically turn them down until thereh is no play on The Rocker, then turn them down another half a turn. What you're currently doing is continually compressing the lifter farther and farther. The new setup has no adjustment you just bolt them down till they're tight and it's correctly set. Buy new I mean later model the engine it is currently in your boat . What you just bought is the older style . So you basically have to be sure the lifter you're working on is not on a cam lobe and being lifted. Easiest way using the firing order 18436 572 the ones that are for apart from each other whenever you see the two rockers moving say on 6 you're on the top of the compression stroke on one. So now you can know you can mess with those two lifters. Now you loosen them back up until you can spin the push rod in your hand and then tighten it up till it just get snug. And now you're at the point you want to go in another half turn. This is something else that you might find on YouTube easier than trying to do it like this. ​​​​​​​

AllDodge

To find zero lash your rotate the push rod, while trying to move the rod up/down. the rotation part of the movement is to make sure it does not stick to rocker or lifter. If lifter has been fully compressed it needs time (mainly for old lifters) to have time to return to full up.

I wish you luck but I think your going down a rabbit hole

dna

OK, got the one side totally done, and got the other head off. Now need to clean up the block, get another head gasket tomorrow and throw on the other head.

My old rocker covers do not fit on these new heads - so I'm using the chrome covers they came with. These chrome covers do not have an oil fill valve like my old ones that had them. Do I fill oil throw the pvc valve hole? Also the pvc valve is on the opposite ends but I suspect that doesn't matter - right?

As for the rockers, I tightened each until there was no play in the rocker, and then turned about another quarter turn - is this right? I suspect even if this is not 100% this can be adjusted later easily enough.

Man, those heads and exhaust manifolds are heavy. Hardest was getting the exhaust manifold on after I got the head on - trying to fit the gasket while holding the manifold and trying to line up the bolts - well lets just say my neighbours heard a lot of shat.

Thanks

phragle

take an exhaust manifold bolt to the hardware store, get the same bolt but a couple inches longer (get 2) then cut the heads off. Thread one in finger tight in the front hole and one on the back hole of the head. You know have nice locator dowels to line everything up, Once you have a couple bolts in, just unscrew your dowels and replace with bolts.

GLENAMY 242SS

You need to turn the crank to align the camshaft for adjusting valve lash on each cylinder. If you are not. Maybe Watch some U-tube videos for reference.
If you are aligning the crank/cam for adjustment please disregard this post.

dna

Darn. I was hoping not to have the turn the engine cause I marked the distributor and was planning to just put it back to ensure proper timing. I'll look at some youtube vids. I suspect though that by turning the engine via the main pulley that my timing will be way off if I put it back - right?

Thanks

dereknkathy

this video is shorter than most, but gives the necessary info. exhaust gaskets. I cut a downward-facing slot out the bottom of the 2 end bolt holes on the gasket. then after getting manifold attached by the 2 end bolts, I slide the gasket down between the manifold and head. then put the other bolts in. we will talk you thru distrib installation later.

dna

OK - took a break from the job yesterday but today after work got lots done. Got the other head on, got the exhaust manifold on (man, that dowle trick worked awesome). Got all the valves lashed - had to take the riser off the other side and loosen the exhaust manifold to get the valve cover off (those screws can't be reached without removing those things - I guess these heads are a little different shape plus the covers are higher).

Tomorrow got to put on the risers (both sides), then intake, then distributor and carb. The a few wiring and throttle linkage connections and should be good to try it. Oh, and oil and oil filter change.

I bought a timing gun. How should I start setting the timing. I assume I just slide and twist the distributor in and leave loose so I can turn. My question is I assume the timing will be way off since I turned the engine to set the lash - should I start with idle and if so what is the setting. Then do I rev to 3000 and set the total timing to 32-34?? Any pointers would be appreciated as I've never set timing before.

Oh - does anyone know the torque setting for the riser? On google I see the exhaust elbow is 30lbs - is the elbow and riser the same? I ask cause the bolts were way tighter to remove than 30 lbs. Also, as mentioned above I had to remove the riser to get the valve cover off - I originally torqued it to 30lbs - would my 'new' gasket be garbage now or can I use it again?

Thanks

dereknkathy

yes, riser is elbow. I looked at the valve covers. looks like you can use you orig valve covers on the replacement heads. the o-ring type gaskets are way better than the old style. what riser gaskets? the silver-graphite ones (preferred) or the green ones that need sealer? distributor install video. what timing light? with dial to set full advance? or a fixed type? if a fixed one, get a ruler and some white-out and mark the TDC mark on the balancer. then measure distance from 0 to the farthest timing mark you have, say 12, 14,16, and measure farther to get a decent guesstimate of 32 and 34 degrees BTDC. painting marks with white-out makes it a zillion times easier to find them.