smokin hot riser
#21
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I realize this an inactive thread but just noticed Chris recommended using those plastic wedges to free up the exhaust hoses from the tubes. I have always done best with a 90 degree pick slid around the perimeter between the hose and the pipe.
First time I saw this was when i worked with an older master tech. He never damaged anything.
First time I saw this was when i worked with an older master tech. He never damaged anything.
![](https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/135x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_21090.jpg)
#22
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Those things are the ticket for getting hoses off the coolers and thermostat housing also - definitely worth a trip to Harbor Freight:
https://www.harborfreight.com/pick-a...-pc-69592.html
Any update from the OP?
https://www.harborfreight.com/pick-a...-pc-69592.html
Any update from the OP?
#24
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Hi guys, sorry I haven't been back here for a while. I removed the riser on the side that is running hot and installed a different gasket with 4 holes to allow for better flow of water from the manifold to the riser. I pulled the large hose from the riser to the "Y" pipe and inspected the flapper, it checked out fine. I also looked at my thermostat and determined that this also functioning properly. I was not able to run the boat since checking these three things since I had already winterized it and didn't feel like redoing the process. I am beginning to think I might have some sort of an internal mechanical issue that is generating excessive heat??? :/ Guess I'll find out in the spring if changing that gasket helped. Freakin' boats man!!! LOL
#25
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I do the same - mine is an old Craftsman cotter pin tool, I believe. ...came in a tool set i got about 30 years ago. Works very well for that purpose.
I realize this an inactive thread but just noticed Chris recommended using those plastic wedges to free up the exhaust hoses from the tubes. I have always done best with a 90 degree pick slid around the perimeter between the hose and the pipe.
First time I saw this was when i worked with an older master tech. He never damaged anything.
![Name: image_21090.jpg
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First time I saw this was when i worked with an older master tech. He never damaged anything.
![Name: image_21090.jpg
Views: 117
Size: 2.6 KB](https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/attachments/do-yourself-boating-budget/571976d1509477981-smokin-hot-riser-image_21090.jpg)
#26
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Hi guys, sorry I haven't been back here for a while. I removed the riser on the side that is running hot and installed a different gasket with 4 holes to allow for better flow of water from the manifold to the riser. I pulled the large hose from the riser to the "Y" pipe and inspected the flapper, it checked out fine. I also looked at my thermostat and determined that this also functioning properly. I was not able to run the boat since checking these three things since I had already winterized it and didn't feel like redoing the process. I am beginning to think I might have some sort of an internal mechanical issue that is generating excessive heat??? :/ Guess I'll find out in the spring if changing that gasket helped. Freakin' boats man!!! LOL
#27
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You have the late model thermostat housing and have checked the housing and hoses an all good. Also replaced the impeller last fall, and the motor is running at regular temp, no overheating. So your either not getting enough water or you have a restriction. It is normal for one side to be a bit hotter then the other but not as you say smoking hot. Get an IR temp gun and check temps at thermostat housing, manifolds and risers.
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I will do that in spring. boat is wrapped up tight for a long winters nap. We have IR guns where I work so I can grab one easily enough. What is considered an acceptable temperature range at these locations?
#29
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Your thermostat housing would be your temp gauge reading (if accurate)
Manifolds and risers will depend on load and temp of water but around 100 on manifolds and maybe 120 on risers under load. One of the manifolds/risers will be ablut 10 degrees hotter then the other but I cannot remember which one right now. This is caused by the resistance of flow. Water flows the path of least resistance and therefore one side gets a tad more then the other with open cooling. I need to right that down, comes up a lot.
Manifolds and risers will depend on load and temp of water but around 100 on manifolds and maybe 120 on risers under load. One of the manifolds/risers will be ablut 10 degrees hotter then the other but I cannot remember which one right now. This is caused by the resistance of flow. Water flows the path of least resistance and therefore one side gets a tad more then the other with open cooling. I need to right that down, comes up a lot.