Raw water Pump
#11
Registered
What kind of hose are you trying to remove from the pump? I use the parker EZ form hose from my transom to strainer which is very flexible and seems very easy to pull off the fittings.
http://www.parker.com/static_content...mHose_2013.pdf
I was planning on replacing my 2 stage Hardin pump with that stainless unit. Has your water pressure changed at all that caused you to look into this?
http://www.parker.com/static_content...mHose_2013.pdf
I was planning on replacing my 2 stage Hardin pump with that stainless unit. Has your water pressure changed at all that caused you to look into this?
Thanks
Keith
#12
Registered
Thread Starter
I only use OEM Impellers, except this time since it came with the pump (New). I'm figuring the bump inside the pump is a manufacturing defect and I can fix it. Still not sure if I want to use it again, but then again its only removed every other year. I'll figure it out by spring
#13
Registered
the impellor looks to be more than two years old,i say that from the bend in the flaps[;also called memory].when they get like that they wont move much water and soon will start to break apart in peices.i doubt the ss housing has any problems.
#14
Registered
Thread Starter
See post 11 and 33
Highest OIl Temps that are safe
Last edited by AllDodge; 12-25-2018 at 08:11 AM.
#15
Registered
No issues with it collapsing, it’s still relatively rigid stuff but much more forgiving than the typical hose. As far as abrasion I don’t think I can comment on that, not in an abrasive environment
#16
Registered
Probably the most hated jobs on a boat. Not sure if was mentioned in another post but can go from NPT to flare on pump. Then flare to barb. Are the pump threads 1". I never liked dealing with new suction hose. Or used for that matter. Just a possible solution for next time around.
#17
Registered
Thread Starter
Probably the most hated jobs on a boat. Not sure if was mentioned in another post but can go from NPT to flare on pump. Then flare to barb. Are the pump threads 1". I never liked dealing with new suction hose. Or used for that matter. Just a possible solution for next time around.
Be nice if they made the quick attach hydraulic without the seal-off features. Wonder if that part can be removed?
#18
Registered
There are a couple companies that make -20AN fittings as well, if you could get a crescent wrench down there. Aluminum are much more reasonable than SS, not sure if you run in fresh or salt.
Raising the motor up 3” was one of the big pros when I added my imco extension box. I remember I dropped a blue drain plug from the 496 under the motor, it took me and my wife to fish it out with our legs and feet.
Raising the motor up 3” was one of the big pros when I added my imco extension box. I remember I dropped a blue drain plug from the 496 under the motor, it took me and my wife to fish it out with our legs and feet.
#19
Registered
Appearances can be deceiving, and maybe its an old impeller from Hardin, but none the less its only 2 seasons old.
See post 11 and 33
Highest OIl Temps that are safe
See post 11 and 33
Highest OIl Temps that are safe
#20
Banned
the impeller was way over due for changing.When they fold over like that - they can not even come close to pumping enough volume of water thru all rpms. Its recommended to change out once per year weather you use the boat or not. Actually there is water volume output tests that also can determine impeller / housing changes.
And for the record the black plastic Bravo impeller housing is a proven pump and proven to flow enough volume of water until it needs changing.. In side by side testing the OEM Merc set up -- the impeller and black plastic housing provided the best water volume output tests new vs new compared to others. stock engine set ups.
Buy the OEM Merc kit --- 90 bucks and change once per year at the start of boating season. and be done with it. Never had a issue with that and once per year change. or after your lay ups are over how years that might be. Never run an impeller that has sat still for a year. Also some Marine OEMs recommend pulling out the impeller at winterization and storing it if you are going to reuse ( condition depending ) .
The older 2 piece OEM pump I like the best anyways. the old Mark IV race pump some call it
And for the record the black plastic Bravo impeller housing is a proven pump and proven to flow enough volume of water until it needs changing.. In side by side testing the OEM Merc set up -- the impeller and black plastic housing provided the best water volume output tests new vs new compared to others. stock engine set ups.
Buy the OEM Merc kit --- 90 bucks and change once per year at the start of boating season. and be done with it. Never had a issue with that and once per year change. or after your lay ups are over how years that might be. Never run an impeller that has sat still for a year. Also some Marine OEMs recommend pulling out the impeller at winterization and storing it if you are going to reuse ( condition depending ) .
The older 2 piece OEM pump I like the best anyways. the old Mark IV race pump some call it
Last edited by BUP; 12-25-2018 at 11:26 PM.