LS swap
02-07-2023, 12:02 PM
#1
LS swap
Decided to just start a new thread for all my LS questions instead of asking on old threads. First question.. what water pump is this? I can see it's been modified ports for water to exhaust.
Second question what flywheel is being used? 6L to bravo coupler.
Second question what flywheel is being used? 6L to bravo coupler.
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articfriends (05-08-2023)
02-07-2023, 04:19 PM
#3
Registered
I think Hardin marine sells a water pump for the LS that will work in a marine ap.
Not sure if KEM or Marine power would sell the ones they use. GM builds them but those two put all the acc on.
Not sure if KEM or Marine power would sell the ones they use. GM builds them but those two put all the acc on.
02-07-2023, 07:58 PM
#4
I used a standard water pump. I looped the heater core inlet outlet.
each exhaust design may be different. I went closed cooling using a RA0147048a
i have a whole write up on the closed cooling setup alone.
Use a standard LS flywheel (NOT a flexplate). If you can afford the aluminum one so much the better.
A bravo high hp coupler will bolt to the flywheel no issues.
Use a flywheel bellhousing with big hole in it.
this is what I used for bell housing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36409477178...mis&media=COPY
you’ll probably need to drill a couple holes to match up LS block it’s fairly straight forward. Although a few will match up for you.
again you have my number if you need to call me.
crusader 6.0 LS setup
2-L510018.pdf
if you go closed cooling this is a huge help. Split coolant out of pump through exhaust risers to heat exchanger.
https://www.hardin-marine.com/vsearc...erm=543-300373
each exhaust design may be different. I went closed cooling using a RA0147048a
i have a whole write up on the closed cooling setup alone.
Use a standard LS flywheel (NOT a flexplate). If you can afford the aluminum one so much the better.
A bravo high hp coupler will bolt to the flywheel no issues.
Use a flywheel bellhousing with big hole in it.
this is what I used for bell housing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36409477178...mis&media=COPY
you’ll probably need to drill a couple holes to match up LS block it’s fairly straight forward. Although a few will match up for you.
again you have my number if you need to call me.
crusader 6.0 LS setup
2-L510018.pdf
if you go closed cooling this is a huge help. Split coolant out of pump through exhaust risers to heat exchanger.
https://www.hardin-marine.com/vsearc...erm=543-300373
Last edited by Xcomunic8d; 02-07-2023 at 08:08 PM.
02-07-2023, 10:35 PM
#5
Thanks for the replies. I do already have a bellhousing from my bbc. Was not planning on closed cooling. I like how that one water pump is setup like the picture i posted but i guess i could just run a sea pump and would like to possibly run just a water crossover from hardin marine this?...https://www.hardin-marine.com/p-1002...lications.aspx.
02-08-2023, 08:37 PM
#6
Most of those open setups…so I’m told… have a raw water pump into the circulating pump. Sorry I don’t know where that pump came from but maybe you can find a shop to fab it up. However, I’m assuming they have a raw water pump somewhere. Asking a circulating pump to do a lift pumps job is rough…
id start here
leave your circulating water pump alone.
plumb my raw water pump into my inlet for circulating.., or do that crossover thingy.
then out the exit of my pump put on that tee splitter above.
split to my exhausts and your set.
add a raw water pump.
https://marineenginedepot.com/lsa-seawater-pump-bracket
https://marineenginedepot.com/60l-62...k-pump-adapter
https://marineenginedepot.com/bushing-for-seawater-pump
get a Johnson f6b-9 pump wherever you like. I got from Amazon I think.
I’m using an arp crank bolt. I also bought one of these 1157-0163 crank bolts. Either of those should work fine if I’d have bought the gm long bolt first I wouldn’t have bought the arp one. But whatever…
make sure you strain that water going through your block.
id start here
leave your circulating water pump alone.
plumb my raw water pump into my inlet for circulating.., or do that crossover thingy.
then out the exit of my pump put on that tee splitter above.
split to my exhausts and your set.
add a raw water pump.
https://marineenginedepot.com/lsa-seawater-pump-bracket
https://marineenginedepot.com/60l-62...k-pump-adapter
https://marineenginedepot.com/bushing-for-seawater-pump
get a Johnson f6b-9 pump wherever you like. I got from Amazon I think.
I’m using an arp crank bolt. I also bought one of these 1157-0163 crank bolts. Either of those should work fine if I’d have bought the gm long bolt first I wouldn’t have bought the arp one. But whatever…
make sure you strain that water going through your block.
05-07-2023, 01:29 PM
#7
Registered
Two questions which probably belong to this section:
Is it really necessary to replace the original exhaust valves with inconel ones?
I would also like to know if it is really necessary to install a plate in the sump pan that prevents the oil from "escapeing" from the intake pipe?
Is it really necessary to replace the original exhaust valves with inconel ones?
I would also like to know if it is really necessary to install a plate in the sump pan that prevents the oil from "escapeing" from the intake pipe?
Last edited by plavutka; 05-07-2023 at 01:31 PM.
07-15-2023, 12:30 PM
#8
Registered
Inconel exhaust valves...always good insurance. If you are going to get new valves anyway, then not much of an extra cost.
Having the correct engine package and compression etc goes a long way, so you don't have to run retarded timing to keep the detonation down. Late ignition will heat up the ex valves.
Many guys don't run inconel, and have good results. RPM, Spring rates, and cam profile all play a part in valve life.
How are the heads setup...what is the guide to valve stem clearance...guide material etc.
The GM factory Inconel valves...apparently had welded on valve heads to the stem...making them a stress fail point.
No one wants to drop a valve head.
I got lucky when my 1970 LT1 crate Short Block with 292 heads overheated...and it just tuliped the intake valves a bit.
Having the correct engine package and compression etc goes a long way, so you don't have to run retarded timing to keep the detonation down. Late ignition will heat up the ex valves.
Many guys don't run inconel, and have good results. RPM, Spring rates, and cam profile all play a part in valve life.
How are the heads setup...what is the guide to valve stem clearance...guide material etc.
The GM factory Inconel valves...apparently had welded on valve heads to the stem...making them a stress fail point.
No one wants to drop a valve head.
I got lucky when my 1970 LT1 crate Short Block with 292 heads overheated...and it just tuliped the intake valves a bit.
07-15-2023, 01:00 PM
#9
Registered
It is original, new Crate engine LS3-480 with KEM-Kodiak alu exhausts, "marine" oil pan with "counterflow gates" (I do not know english words for this "hinges") and originall ECU 480 program.
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Xcomunic8d (07-16-2023)
