CheckmateScarab

Confirmed my clamp was good, worm gear was biting just fine, perhaps I just didnt put it on tight enough. When installing the new impeller I did use some lube, I doubt I got any on the nipple / hose but thats a possibility too

Ended up ordering T-bolt clamps to be safe, how do you know how hard to clamp these down being that the nipple is plastic? thanks again guys

techman

Don't over think it. I wouldn't use lube...that is asking for trouble.

The inlet hose, if the correct size to start, should fit snug with some effort to push it on. Tighten the clamp where it is firmly in place. Do NOT torque it down so much that is crushes the rubber hose otherwise the heat/cool cycles will crack the rubber that much faster. The plastic back plate is pretty strong....but again, do not over tighten even though you are a bit gun-shy at the moment.

mike38scarab

Standard automotive hose clamps do not work very well, they are zinc plated and will fail. Worm style clamps dig into and destroy the hose. What you should be using is an embossed hose clamp or T bolt clamp. In the picture an embossed clamp is on the left and a T-bolt clamp is on the right, both clamps shown are for the same size hose. Both of these clamps will not dig into and destroy a hose. The T bolt clamp is a true circular clamp, The correct brass hose barb is 1 1/2 inches in length. ABYC only requires two hose clamps on fuel lines and exhaust hoses. If you put more hose clamps on the hose with a short barb you will destroy the hose. After time all hoses become permanent set around the clamp and barb. If you have extra length of hose, you may be able to cut off a few inches for a fresh sealing surface. You should use a little bellows adhesive for sealing. Eventually, you will have to replace hoses.

Helmwurst

Don't use a screwdriver to tighten the worm clamp either. Get a 5/16" , 1/4 inch socket and a flexible driver. I picked one up at Menards for about $7.00 They have a screwdriver type handle and a wound spring style shaft. I call them a flex driver.

Tractionless

Stainless steel Awab clamps ONLY and double up. Tighten with a wrench or ratchet as they'll get much tighter that way than with a screwdriver. They will break a plastic connection and bend thin metal so be careful. They look like the one in the left pic. in post #13 but I cannot tell if that's a genuine Awab.

They are actually stronger than T-bolt clamps and provide for constant tension for the entire 360*.

tgorbett

I would also have a good look at the impeller as it could have temporarily run dry and smoked. And it goes without saying, you need to secure all of those and any wires to keep them clear of the tailpipes.

underpsi68

Is it me or does the hose looked like it failed, not the clamps?

CheckmateScarab

the impeller never ran dry, the wires were dropped down to see the extent of the damage and fortunately they are all in good condition, the wire loom did melt however and I need to replace that. Thanks!

The hose seems good to me, I think the clamps weren't tight enough, good eye though!

Big_Baller

AN fittings all the way.

Helmwurst

I see from the above picture that you capped off the fuel pump and I also see a tiny bit of the fuel pump on the next stringer. Can you post some pictures showing details of your fuel pump install? I have been fighting a leaking Hardin pump all season and just done with the mech fp mounted to the sea pump.