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502 mag mpi cutting out

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Old 09-01-2023, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Bstocky
I did buy a new cap, rotor and ignition module for mine to be safe, gojng to run the boat this weekend.

I hooked up a scanner for codes, nothing. I also ran a fuel pump test with the scanner with a fuel pressure gauge on the rail, 48-49 psi while the pump was cycling, held about 44-45 when it was turned off.
I just noticed that it looks like all fuel pressure tests were not done in the water and under load while running the boat. Fuel psi needs to be checked under load.

BTW, changed my EST module today and no change for how mine runs.

Last edited by Griff; 09-01-2023 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 09-01-2023, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Griff
I just noticed that it looks like all fuel pressure tests were not done in the water and under load while running the boat. Fuel psi needs to be checked under load.

BTW, changed my EST module today and no change for how mine runs.
.

yea I just checked to see if it were obvious. Planning on taking scanner and gauge with this weekend.

Last edited by Bstocky; 09-01-2023 at 05:16 AM.
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Old 09-01-2023, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Drewm3i
It is likely culprit for bogging/fuel starvation. Seen it a bunch. It is at your tank hose barb that leads to the fuel/water separator on the engine.

Looks like this:
so that’s the fitting on the fuel filter housing where the line from the tank runs to?
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Old 09-01-2023, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Bstocky
so that’s the fitting on the fuel filter housing where the line from the tank runs to?
No, this valve fitting is on the tank itself and every inboard boat is required by law to have one.
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Old 09-01-2023, 07:16 AM
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It's called a antisiphon valve. Stops fuel from siphoning into bilge if there is a leak between tank and filter
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Old 09-01-2023, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Drewm3i
No, this valve fitting is on the tank itself and every inboard boat is required by law to have one.
Is it something you simply can clean? Or is it a replace only?
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Old 09-02-2023, 12:00 PM
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I put in a new ac delco pick up coil this AM, just to be safe, one I pulled out smelled a little burnt actually. Had the boat running warming up just to check timing, had the scanner on it just watching everything. Every time I refire the boat I get a code 23 manifold air temp malfunction(which is a new sensor) and code 14 coolant temp malfunction. When I watching those numbers on the scanner both are pretty accurate, I shot the hose with my laser temp gun and was with in a few degrees of the scanner coolant temp, and the air temp seemed about right at 78° and rose to low 80’s after 30 mins of idling. I unplugged both on the air temp went to 0 and back to it previous reading when plugged back in and coolant went to -39 when in plugged and back to 165 when plugged back in. Pins look good in the plugs, I removed the ecm harness connections don’t see any signs of corrosion or damage. Don’t think those plugs could have been swapped under the plenum when I did the injectors? I have the gray harness plug on the air temp and and the black harness plug on coolant. Sound right?
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Old 09-02-2023, 01:03 PM
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Did you use the white grease under the pickup ?
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Old 09-02-2023, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
Did you use the white grease under the pickup ?
not under the pick up coil, but did on the ignition module
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Old 09-02-2023, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Bstocky
Is it something you simply can clean? Or is it a replace only?
It's like $10...replace it unless the ball valve is freely moving.

Check this before continuing to troubleshoot.
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