Drive sticks in forward after hard run??
05-10-2007, 02:35 PM
#11
Charter Member #601
Charter Member
JaayTeee is saying what I am meaning.. The cam has to hit the brass eccentric ring and get kicked out. If the cam isnt turning far enough ( cable adjust or linkage adjust??) then the bump on the cam wouldnt get hit by the brass ring hard enough to pop it out. It sounds like the cone wedges in and wont pop out..
My question is, is the cam telling it to pop out hard enough to make it happen? Or is the cam worn, the brass ring worn, or the gear stack to tall, creating too much space for the size of cam bumps to create the kick out... If you pull the back cap and see the cam rotate all the way so that the bump is under the ring, then the linkage and cable adj is ok.. Now if the cone is getting wedged into the gear, try flipping gears and or another cone clutch.. if things change you are getting close. One thing you can do is limit the amount of travel the cone can go into the gear.. with a shim of some sort.. but it should work without it if everything is right.
It looks like they are using the Merc hub and just putting a differnt ring gear on that hub, looks like Merc cone.
My question is, is the cam telling it to pop out hard enough to make it happen? Or is the cam worn, the brass ring worn, or the gear stack to tall, creating too much space for the size of cam bumps to create the kick out... If you pull the back cap and see the cam rotate all the way so that the bump is under the ring, then the linkage and cable adj is ok.. Now if the cone is getting wedged into the gear, try flipping gears and or another cone clutch.. if things change you are getting close. One thing you can do is limit the amount of travel the cone can go into the gear.. with a shim of some sort.. but it should work without it if everything is right.
It looks like they are using the Merc hub and just putting a differnt ring gear on that hub, looks like Merc cone.
05-10-2007, 05:48 PM
#12
I hate the winter!!
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Except for that bearing in the middle picture, looks like the same stuff as a Merc drive. I am surprised to see helical cut gears and not straight. I guess they are so much bigger than Merc gears, you dont need straight gears to handle the load.
05-10-2007, 06:02 PM
#13
Rob
VIP MemberThread Starter
JaayTeee is saying what I am meaning.. The cam has to hit the brass eccentric ring and get kicked out. If the cam isnt turning far enough ( cable adjust or linkage adjust??) then the bump on the cam wouldnt get hit by the brass ring hard enough to pop it out. It sounds like the cone wedges in and wont pop out..
My question is, is the cam telling it to pop out hard enough to make it happen? Or is the cam worn, the brass ring worn, or the gear stack to tall, creating too much space for the size of cam bumps to create the kick out... If you pull the back cap and see the cam rotate all the way so that the bump is under the ring, then the linkage and cable adj is ok.. Now if the cone is getting wedged into the gear, try flipping gears and or another cone clutch.. if things change you are getting close. One thing you can do is limit the amount of travel the cone can go into the gear.. with a shim of some sort.. but it should work without it if everything is right.
It looks like they are using the Merc hub and just putting a differnt ring gear on that hub, looks like Merc cone.
My question is, is the cam telling it to pop out hard enough to make it happen? Or is the cam worn, the brass ring worn, or the gear stack to tall, creating too much space for the size of cam bumps to create the kick out... If you pull the back cap and see the cam rotate all the way so that the bump is under the ring, then the linkage and cable adj is ok.. Now if the cone is getting wedged into the gear, try flipping gears and or another cone clutch.. if things change you are getting close. One thing you can do is limit the amount of travel the cone can go into the gear.. with a shim of some sort.. but it should work without it if everything is right.
It looks like they are using the Merc hub and just putting a differnt ring gear on that hub, looks like Merc cone.
I am thinking of swaping drives from side to side?
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
05-10-2007, 07:22 PM
#14
Geronimo36
Gold Member
The ball bearing is definetely different and seems much tougher than the wafer bearing in the merc.
05-10-2007, 10:43 PM
#15
Charter Member #601
Charter Member
Strip,
I was thinking the same thing.. it would be easier to just swap the props and run it with the sticks in the rev position. If it worked then you could swap the drives from side to side.
I was also thinking of the cable adjustment. It probably isnt the problem like you say. How far does the stick move before you feel resistance and it stops moving? There would have to be some movement for the cam to go from the fwd position towards the neutral position. At that point the eccentric ring should hit the the cam and knock it out of gear. If the shift shaft was binding it might hang it up and not let it turn far enough so that it does kick it out.
My thought is, that the cone is getting wedged into the gear, but why, I dont know. Like I said before, mismatch of the taper?? Runing it in the opposite direction, may tell you something...
Have you talked to Dean or Ron about this?? What do they say about it?
Sorry I cant be of more help..
I was thinking the same thing.. it would be easier to just swap the props and run it with the sticks in the rev position. If it worked then you could swap the drives from side to side.
I was also thinking of the cable adjustment. It probably isnt the problem like you say. How far does the stick move before you feel resistance and it stops moving? There would have to be some movement for the cam to go from the fwd position towards the neutral position. At that point the eccentric ring should hit the the cam and knock it out of gear. If the shift shaft was binding it might hang it up and not let it turn far enough so that it does kick it out.
My thought is, that the cone is getting wedged into the gear, but why, I dont know. Like I said before, mismatch of the taper?? Runing it in the opposite direction, may tell you something...
Have you talked to Dean or Ron about this?? What do they say about it?
Sorry I cant be of more help..
05-10-2007, 10:55 PM
#16
Charter Member #601
Charter Member
Panther,
I see in your pics, that the upper portion of the cone has wear on the two bottom ridges, only.. That seems to me to be a mismatch of the taper. Usually the ridges are worn pretty much the same all the way across.. I wonder if that is the actual cause?? Maybe thats\'s what is going on in Strip's case??
I see in your pics, that the upper portion of the cone has wear on the two bottom ridges, only.. That seems to me to be a mismatch of the taper. Usually the ridges are worn pretty much the same all the way across.. I wonder if that is the actual cause?? Maybe thats\'s what is going on in Strip's case??
05-10-2007, 11:04 PM
#17
Rob
VIP MemberThread Starter
Strip,
I was thinking the same thing.. it would be easier to just swap the props and run it with the sticks in the rev position. If it worked then you could swap the drives from side to side.
I was also thinking of the cable adjustment. It probably isnt the problem like you say. How far does the stick move before you feel resistance and it stops moving? There would have to be some movement for the cam to go from the fwd position towards the neutral position. At that point the eccentric ring should hit the the cam and knock it out of gear. If the shift shaft was binding it might hang it up and not let it turn far enough so that it does kick it out.
My thought is, that the cone is getting wedged into the gear, but why, I dont know. Like I said before, mismatch of the taper?? Runing it in the opposite direction, may tell you something...
Have you talked to Dean or Ron about this?? What do they say about it?
Sorry I cant be of more help..
I was thinking the same thing.. it would be easier to just swap the props and run it with the sticks in the rev position. If it worked then you could swap the drives from side to side.
I was also thinking of the cable adjustment. It probably isnt the problem like you say. How far does the stick move before you feel resistance and it stops moving? There would have to be some movement for the cam to go from the fwd position towards the neutral position. At that point the eccentric ring should hit the the cam and knock it out of gear. If the shift shaft was binding it might hang it up and not let it turn far enough so that it does kick it out.
My thought is, that the cone is getting wedged into the gear, but why, I dont know. Like I said before, mismatch of the taper?? Runing it in the opposite direction, may tell you something...
Have you talked to Dean or Ron about this?? What do they say about it?
Sorry I cant be of more help..
I have to send the rear cap back to get resealed Monday, so I was going to change oil and swap them for the hell of it just to see.
I did notice a lot of the clutch cone brass/bronze stuff in the drive bottle.
The one I traded in did the same thing he said at that time it was the clutch cone/female part was worn on the top, he said they have a angle on them that lets it roll out of gear, that itswas worn flat,
Now Dean says its just cable ajustment.
Ron on the old one said live with it .
I am going to play with ajustmet Sunday see if it does anything.
The new style foot does not like flat water.its worse that the old onesin handling.Maybe it will have some chop this weekend and strech it out and see.
__________________
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
05-11-2007, 08:09 AM
#19
Geronimo36
Gold Member
Panther,
I see in your pics, that the upper portion of the cone has wear on the two bottom ridges, only.. That seems to me to be a mismatch of the taper. Usually the ridges are worn pretty much the same all the way across.. I wonder if that is the actual cause?? Maybe thats\'s what is going on in Strip's case??
I see in your pics, that the upper portion of the cone has wear on the two bottom ridges, only.. That seems to me to be a mismatch of the taper. Usually the ridges are worn pretty much the same all the way across.. I wonder if that is the actual cause?? Maybe thats\'s what is going on in Strip's case??
The first run I took with these drives last year, one was stuck in forward and we ran in 6-8 ft seas. Once it released it never happen again the rest of the year. Maybe the cone/clutch had to wear itself in first?
Last edited by Panther; 05-11-2007 at 08:17 AM.
05-11-2007, 08:12 AM
#20
Rob
VIP MemberThread Starter
I am a little hesitant to send the old stuff back,Deans been taking care of me over the years fairly well.I just need to get the new bugs out I did buy a spare foot because I know thats the week link, so if on vacation and I break one I can be back on the water in a few hours
It looks like I got enough stuff to start a drive biz
I did buy a spare foot because I know thats the week link, so if on vacation and I break one I can be back on the water in a few hoursIt looks like I got enough stuff to start a drive biz
__________________
.
The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
.
The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
Last edited by Strip Poker 388; 05-11-2007 at 08:20 AM.
