Mr Gadgets

"The one I traded in did the same thing he said at that time it was the clutch cone/female part was worn on the top, he said they have a angle on them that lets it roll out of gear, that itswas worn flat,

Now Dean says its just cable ajustment. "

I am wondering if Dean is referring to the an angle on the cone that is a bit different from the gear? Most of the cones I remove show signs of even wear across the face of the ridges. But if Dean says cable adj.. he should know. But the Merc units work good in most cases. I am just wondering what the diff is between the two. I would suspect it would be in the gear itself where the clutch seats.
If swapping them does it.. and as Panther said.. it did it once then not again.. in his case maybe he fixed it by doing it once and the mating surfaces changed to a happy place.
It would be interesting to see a pic of your cone and the gear it is doing in. See where the wear is on the ridges and if the gear surface is smooth.
Panther, is the pic above, of the gear/cone that did stick once??

Strip Poker 388

There was a lot of brass/bronze clutch cone material in the oil when I drained it, There was a little metal slivers on the magnet on both.

I am swapping from side to side. I had to send the rear cap back to Dean,it was leaking thru the casting.He is going to reseal it ,I hope that works , The drive fluid leaking is making a hell of a mess on the transom

I think a found a problem or the problem? The shift fork linkage is bottom out against the housing going one way and the other way it binding against the floor enough to wear a groove in it . I am going to grind some clearance in this area maybe this will help if nothing else let it shift easier

Any other suggestions?

Click on pick to enlarge

Strip Poker 388

metal on plug

Mr Gadgets

Rob,
Is the wear mark in the position of the gear that wont come out? You may have found it?? Lets hope it is something simple..

Now about the metal on those magnets.... I think there may be an issue... Any of that chunks you can feel with your fingers??

Strip Poker 388

The one that bottom against the case was forward and its on the other side now,. So it will be running in the reverse gear.I am still going to grind clearance on them Hope I dont go thru I still belive its in the cone but Ive eliminated that by swapping

I havent felt the metal yet. I think there just flakes and not chunks, The drives are new 10-12 hours first oil change,Ive had B-Max drives since 2002 and they always had some metal on the mags .

Both drives that he loaned me for the summer I tore down just to see,had lower gears going out,its the weak link and thats why I bought a spare.They just eat lower gears.


Rob

Panther

Rob,

The first time I changed my oil last year they had the same amount of metal on the magnet as the plug on the left.

Instead of grinding clearance on the case in the back, can you grind the gold colored lower shift arm instead? Still not sure why it's hitting the lower part of the case. Even though the pin/shift assembly "floats" in there, once the cone clutch engages it's just along for the ride...not sure why it would push it down... Very strange, especially when you haven't run them very long.

Strip Poker 388

The gold lever is thin in the area that the stainless rod is going thru, It looks like the top of the rod were the cotter pin is ,is were its hitting the case.


I was turning the prop by hand while my girl shifted it,the brass piece moves a pretty good bit up and down.

Panther

That's weird.. mine doen't move much at all.

D!ck (Mr_gadgets), is that normal?

Mr Gadgets

The shift lever will move up and down.. in a normal bravo it is about 3/8" or so.. never measured it, but it does move quite a bit. I have never spun the propshaft and shifted it.. I always turn the input shaft and then shift it.. I use a finish nail with a brass ferrel on the end, to fit into the shift cable receiver.. and a pair of small vise grips on the other end.. to shift it. Or if the back cap is off, I move the lever, while turning the input shaft.. The shift rod will move as much as the cam lobes (bumps) cause them to move and the cone going into gear..
and you are correct, once into gear is should just be along for the ride..

In a bravo there are certain places that produce metal.. Two ways to get rid of it.. change the oil at short intervals during break in. Or recycle the oil thru a filter and cooler.. which I have been playing with for a while.. You should see the metal that the filter captures..

Strip Poker 388

Well I ground the spots were it was hitting.When I took it apart the brass looking lever had been ground on for clearance were the shift rod hits the innerside of the case, The rod was ground flat on the bottom for making clearance from were it hits the floor, were the wear spots are in the picks.This may of made it weak,I guess if it breaks I know were to look first The port drive is now on the star side and it looks good on clearance. I did notice the drive that was sticking in forward, that it looked like it was wearing on the top of the brass/bronze female cone part were the clutch fork hits it to make it shift. there was some jagged metal on the top edge of like it was digging into it.All the other gear cones didnt have this wear .


D*ck what you consider short intervals on oil change,10 20 hours.