Drive sticks in forward after hard run??
05-17-2007, 12:04 AM
#31
Rob
VIP MemberThread Starter
The thing I am thinking about is...... the dive shifts fine, even running normal and come off plane it will come out of gear .Until I run it hard or throttle it into boost,Thats when it sticks in forward.After I yank it out of forward it shifts fine again until I run it hard again.It only sticks when I get into it like above say 3700 or into boost. The harder or longer I run it the harder it sticks.
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05-17-2007, 01:27 AM
#32
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
The one that bottom against the case was forward and its on the other side now,. So it will be running in the reverse gear.I am still going to grind clearance on them Hope I dont go thru
I still belive its in the cone but Ive eliminated that by swapping
I havent felt the metal yet. I think there just flakes and not chunks, The drives are new 10-12 hours first oil change,Ive had B-Max drives since 2002 and they always had some metal on the mags .
Both drives that he loaned me for the summer I tore down just to see,had lower gears going out,its the weak link and thats why I bought a spare.They just eat lower gears.
Rob
I still belive its in the cone but Ive eliminated that by swapping I havent felt the metal yet. I think there just flakes and not chunks, The drives are new 10-12 hours first oil change,Ive had B-Max drives since 2002 and they always had some metal on the mags .
Both drives that he loaned me for the summer I tore down just to see,had lower gears going out,its the weak link and thats why I bought a spare.They just eat lower gears.
Rob
05-17-2007, 05:50 AM
#33
Charter Member #601
Charter Member
Rob,
I still think the cone is getting wedged into the gear and it wont release it, easily. I would think the tapers should match (cone to gear surface) so that the cone doesnt wedge on just a couple of ridges..??
Let us know how it works..
I still think the cone is getting wedged into the gear and it wont release it, easily. I would think the tapers should match (cone to gear surface) so that the cone doesnt wedge on just a couple of ridges..??
Let us know how it works..
05-17-2007, 08:26 AM
#34
Rob
VIP MemberThread Starter
Stock
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
05-17-2007, 08:30 AM
#35
Rob
VIP MemberThread Starter
Will do. I am suppose to get the resealed rear cap back today. I sent it to them overnight freight and there suppose to of shipped it out Wed back overnight .Should have it today ?
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
05-17-2007, 06:12 PM
#36
Charter Member #601
Charter Member
Rob,
I missed your question on the oil change interval. .. On a new drive with XR gears (read that net forged) and the lower gears are the same.. I like to see the oil drained after 5hrs, then 10 more and then 15 more.. After that, depending on how hot the drive gets, 25-50hrs.. It all depends on what you see when you drain it.. If it looks new and smells good.. then you are early.. If it is dark and full of metal and it smells burnt.. you are too late.. So some where in between.. works.. *S*..
I have included some pics of a cone that I find as normal wear.. the shiny spots on the ridges are pretty even all the way across.. This indicates to me that when the cone gets wedged into the gear, the load is shared all the way across the face of the cone.. In that case the gear stretchs (if it does) the same all the way across the face of contact.. If it were to only contact a few ridges.. I could see it sticking in the gear.. I am no engineer, so I may be wrong.. just observing what I see when a find a normal working drive.. at least as far as the shifting process is concerned.
Tell us how it went with swaping the drives..
D*ck
I missed your question on the oil change interval. .. On a new drive with XR gears (read that net forged) and the lower gears are the same.. I like to see the oil drained after 5hrs, then 10 more and then 15 more.. After that, depending on how hot the drive gets, 25-50hrs.. It all depends on what you see when you drain it.. If it looks new and smells good.. then you are early.. If it is dark and full of metal and it smells burnt.. you are too late.. So some where in between.. works.. *S*..
I have included some pics of a cone that I find as normal wear.. the shiny spots on the ridges are pretty even all the way across.. This indicates to me that when the cone gets wedged into the gear, the load is shared all the way across the face of the cone.. In that case the gear stretchs (if it does) the same all the way across the face of contact.. If it were to only contact a few ridges.. I could see it sticking in the gear.. I am no engineer, so I may be wrong.. just observing what I see when a find a normal working drive.. at least as far as the shifting process is concerned.
Tell us how it went with swaping the drives..
D*ck
05-17-2007, 09:09 PM
#37
Rob
VIP MemberThread Starter
Rob,
I missed your question on the oil change interval. .. On a new drive with XR gears (read that net forged) and the lower gears are the same.. I like to see the oil drained after 5hrs, then 10 more and then 15 more.. After that, depending on how hot the drive gets, 25-50hrs.. It all depends on what you see when you drain it.. If it looks new and smells good.. then you are early.. If it is dark and full of metal and it smells burnt.. you are too late.. So some where in between.. works.. *S*..
I have included some pics of a cone that I find as normal wear.. the shiny spots on the ridges are pretty even all the way across.. This indicates to me that when the cone gets wedged into the gear, the load is shared all the way across the face of the cone.. In that case the gear stretchs (if it does) the same all the way across the face of contact.. If it were to only contact a few ridges.. I could see it sticking in the gear.. I am no engineer, so I may be wrong.. just observing what I see when a find a normal working drive.. at least as far as the shifting process is concerned.
Tell us how it went with swaping the drives..
the metal on the drain plug was like a dry grafite,like tooth paste,no chunks but it had a texture to it
D*ck
I missed your question on the oil change interval. .. On a new drive with XR gears (read that net forged) and the lower gears are the same.. I like to see the oil drained after 5hrs, then 10 more and then 15 more.. After that, depending on how hot the drive gets, 25-50hrs.. It all depends on what you see when you drain it.. If it looks new and smells good.. then you are early.. If it is dark and full of metal and it smells burnt.. you are too late.. So some where in between.. works.. *S*..
I have included some pics of a cone that I find as normal wear.. the shiny spots on the ridges are pretty even all the way across.. This indicates to me that when the cone gets wedged into the gear, the load is shared all the way across the face of the cone.. In that case the gear stretchs (if it does) the same all the way across the face of contact.. If it were to only contact a few ridges.. I could see it sticking in the gear.. I am no engineer, so I may be wrong.. just observing what I see when a find a normal working drive.. at least as far as the shifting process is concerned.
Tell us how it went with swaping the drives..
the metal on the drain plug was like a dry grafite,like tooth paste,no chunks but it had a texture to it
D*ck
Thanks for the input. These Bmaxs the oil gets dark real quick.I dont think it from heat prob metal and wear. I have ran it hard and felt the drive and it just warm not hot. The upper case has water passages in it so its pretty water cooled.
When Panther took his apart this winetr he had the upper gear that was real dark[blue], looked like it had had some temp in it. Dean told him to run it down worry about it.
Well the rear cap was sent out 2 day air, I guess I assumed they would return it red like I sent it to them.So if it shows up friday Ill put it back into the water that night,
Thanks
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
05-17-2007, 09:56 PM
#38
VIP Member
VIP Member
If the mating surfaces of the cone and the gear
( female portion of the cone)don't match up and share the load , there are going to be high spots ( high pressure area's) that are more apt to spread the gear and wedge the cone in harder til it eventually mates with all the clutch area.
The spiral splines on the vertical driveshaft make the cone
act like an "easy out", the harder you twist on it, ( like
when you get into boost) the more it digs in,
it will continue to dig as long as it able to
push around the female mating surface.
Once it's dug it to where it's bottomed out,
those high pressure spots
may require extra effort
to dislodge the the shift cone.
Hope that makes sense.
( female portion of the cone)don't match up and share the load , there are going to be high spots ( high pressure area's) that are more apt to spread the gear and wedge the cone in harder til it eventually mates with all the clutch area.
The spiral splines on the vertical driveshaft make the cone
act like an "easy out", the harder you twist on it, ( like
when you get into boost) the more it digs in,
it will continue to dig as long as it able to
push around the female mating surface.
Once it's dug it to where it's bottomed out,
those high pressure spots
may require extra effort
to dislodge the the shift cone.
Hope that makes sense.
05-18-2007, 08:04 AM
#39
Geronimo36
Gold Member
If it holds up I'll just move on and say "thanks Dean" but if I loose the gear I'll say "told ya so"....
For good measure I swapped the drives from side-to-side anyway.
