Drive sticks in forward after hard run??
05-08-2007, 06:55 PM
#1
Rob
VIP MemberThread Starter
Drive sticks in forward after hard run??
Brand new drive.What would cause a Bravo one style drive to stick in forward , After I run it, come off plane at Idle it doesn't want to come out of forward . Its worse if I run it hard ,I have to pull on it so hard it feels like its going to break the cable!!! its harder than if you killed the motor with it in gear. I am guessing its pressing the clutch in to the clutch cone so hard its sticking.
Some mentioned that the clutch cone/seat was flat and would not let the shift fork let it roll out of gear?
Its idling at 750rpm, I can even try pulling it out of gear coming off plane with no load on the drive/prop and its the same. Blipping the throttle doesn't help either.
Any suggestions
Thanks
Some mentioned that the clutch cone/seat was flat and would not let the shift fork let it roll out of gear?
Its idling at 750rpm, I can even try pulling it out of gear coming off plane with no load on the drive/prop and its the same. Blipping the throttle doesn't help either.
Any suggestions
Thanks
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
05-08-2007, 07:48 PM
#2
Geronimo36
Gold Member
Rob, if you pull off the front cover have someone turn the motor over to check and see if the + and - line up on the drive gears. On yours they will be hard to see.
Check this out to; http://forums.boatfreaks.org/showthread.php?t=6744
Check this out to; http://forums.boatfreaks.org/showthread.php?t=6744
05-09-2007, 11:27 AM
#3
Charter Member #601
Charter Member
Panther,
I agree, it could be misalignment of the gears or cable adjustment. But after reading that thread, there are a lot of factors involved. I have not seen this problem as of yet, so I have not had to tackle it. And that is a very interesting thread!!
Strip, does anything apply to your situation after reading that thread?? It would seem that in your case, it is still coming out of gear, just very hard. I was told that the offset in the brass ring is suppose to help kick the clutch out of the gear.
Another possiblity is that the spring may be missing or broken, that is located between the cone and the gear.
Almost have to take it apart to see what is happening inside.
First I would pull the back cap and have someone roll over the motor and shift it.. you have to either use an external starter switch or bypass the safety switch to do it. But the input to the drive must be rotating to shift it.
Look to see if the mechanism is rotating properly.. nothing loose, etc. Then try to line up the + and - on the gear brass rings, they should line up with the lines on the case (in the middle of the opening).
After that, it needs to be taken apart.. to look deeper.
Hope this helps..
D*ck
I agree, it could be misalignment of the gears or cable adjustment. But after reading that thread, there are a lot of factors involved. I have not seen this problem as of yet, so I have not had to tackle it. And that is a very interesting thread!!
Strip, does anything apply to your situation after reading that thread?? It would seem that in your case, it is still coming out of gear, just very hard. I was told that the offset in the brass ring is suppose to help kick the clutch out of the gear.
Another possiblity is that the spring may be missing or broken, that is located between the cone and the gear.
Almost have to take it apart to see what is happening inside.
First I would pull the back cap and have someone roll over the motor and shift it.. you have to either use an external starter switch or bypass the safety switch to do it. But the input to the drive must be rotating to shift it.
Look to see if the mechanism is rotating properly.. nothing loose, etc. Then try to line up the + and - on the gear brass rings, they should line up with the lines on the case (in the middle of the opening).
After that, it needs to be taken apart.. to look deeper.
Hope this helps..
D*ck
05-09-2007, 02:22 PM
#4
Rob
VIP MemberThread Starter
Panther,
I agree, it could be misalignment of the gears or cable adjustment. But after reading that thread, there are a lot of factors involved. I have not seen this problem as of yet, so I have not had to tackle it. And that is a very interesting thread!!
Strip, does anything apply to your situation after reading that thread?? It would seem that in your case, it is still coming out of gear, just very hard. I was told that the offset in the brass ring is suppose to help kick the clutch out of the gear.
Another possiblity is that the spring may be missing or broken, that is located between the cone and the gear.
Almost have to take it apart to see what is happening inside.
First I would pull the back cap and have someone roll over the motor and shift it.. you have to either use an external starter switch or bypass the safety switch to do it. But the input to the drive must be rotating to shift it.
Look to see if the mechanism is rotating properly.. nothing loose, etc. Then try to line up the + and - on the gear brass rings, they should line up with the lines on the case (in the middle of the opening).
After that, it needs to be taken apart.. to look deeper.
Hope this helps..
D*ck
I agree, it could be misalignment of the gears or cable adjustment. But after reading that thread, there are a lot of factors involved. I have not seen this problem as of yet, so I have not had to tackle it. And that is a very interesting thread!!
Strip, does anything apply to your situation after reading that thread?? It would seem that in your case, it is still coming out of gear, just very hard. I was told that the offset in the brass ring is suppose to help kick the clutch out of the gear.
Another possiblity is that the spring may be missing or broken, that is located between the cone and the gear.
Almost have to take it apart to see what is happening inside.
First I would pull the back cap and have someone roll over the motor and shift it.. you have to either use an external starter switch or bypass the safety switch to do it. But the input to the drive must be rotating to shift it.
Look to see if the mechanism is rotating properly.. nothing loose, etc. Then try to line up the + and - on the gear brass rings, they should line up with the lines on the case (in the middle of the opening).
After that, it needs to be taken apart.. to look deeper.
Hope this helps..
D*ck
The port LH drive is the one sticking. it is ok until ya run it get some heat in it or a load on it , before this it shifts fine,The harder you run it the harder it is to come out of gear.
I dont think its the cap, there real thick on a B Max. unless the clearance is off.
How could a cable ajustment make it stick into gear? Make the clutch cone not want to disengage?
Doesn't the shift fork push the clutch into the cone and the TQ/Force keep in planted in gear?
__________________
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
05-09-2007, 06:37 PM
#5
I hate the winter!!
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[QUOTE=Strip Poker 388Doesn't the shift fork push the clutch into the cone and the TQ/Force keep in planted in gear?[/QUOTE]
Rob,
Thats what I always thought. There is no way all the torque these engines produce, will not slip the clutch simply by the small amount of pressure the shift yoke and cam can apply. I think??
I know you are running B-Max drives. Is the shifting mechanism the same basic design as as a Bravo?
Vinny
Rob,
Thats what I always thought. There is no way all the torque these engines produce, will not slip the clutch simply by the small amount of pressure the shift yoke and cam can apply. I think??
I know you are running B-Max drives. Is the shifting mechanism the same basic design as as a Bravo?
Vinny
Last edited by Vinny P; 05-09-2007 at 07:17 PM.
05-10-2007, 09:46 AM
#6
Charter Member #601
Charter Member
Ok.. I thought we were talking about Bravo drive.. Now I really dont know what I am talking about.. I have yet to put my hands on a Bmax... and have not played with this problem on a bravo yet.
But my thought is that if the linkage is not pulling/pushing on it hard enough, it may not be letting it pop out. On the bravo the cam swings around and is hit by the spinner rings and are suppose to do the popping out as I have been told. (I was kind of thinking out loud.) Torque does wedge the cone into the gear, after the oil is forced out it will lock.. If it is misshaped I can see it getting stuck in the gear. If the taper on both the gear and cone are not matched, then I could see it sticking. Once it does pop out.. can you feel it?? What I mean is, does the linkage free up and shift in and out of gear easily? That would tell us the cone is stuck to the gear and not the linkage hanging or binding..
How hot does the drive get?? Monster like that should stay pretty cool with all the oil in it?? If the gear is getting hot and expands and the cone just seats deeper, then maybe it just doesnt want to let go. If the cone has the ridges, like a bravo, do they all show the same wear? That might indicate a taper misalignment..
Like I a said.. thinking out loud.. hope it helps
D*ck
But my thought is that if the linkage is not pulling/pushing on it hard enough, it may not be letting it pop out. On the bravo the cam swings around and is hit by the spinner rings and are suppose to do the popping out as I have been told. (I was kind of thinking out loud.) Torque does wedge the cone into the gear, after the oil is forced out it will lock.. If it is misshaped I can see it getting stuck in the gear. If the taper on both the gear and cone are not matched, then I could see it sticking. Once it does pop out.. can you feel it?? What I mean is, does the linkage free up and shift in and out of gear easily? That would tell us the cone is stuck to the gear and not the linkage hanging or binding..
How hot does the drive get?? Monster like that should stay pretty cool with all the oil in it?? If the gear is getting hot and expands and the cone just seats deeper, then maybe it just doesnt want to let go. If the cone has the ridges, like a bravo, do they all show the same wear? That might indicate a taper misalignment..
Like I a said.. thinking out loud.. hope it helps
D*ck
05-10-2007, 10:31 AM
#7
Geronimo36
Gold Member
Ok.. I thought we were talking about Bravo drive.. Now I really dont know what I am talking about.. I have yet to put my hands on a Bmax... and have not played with this problem on a bravo yet.
But my thought is that if the linkage is not pulling/pushing on it hard enough, it may not be letting it pop out. On the bravo the cam swings around and is hit by the spinner rings and are suppose to do the popping out as I have been told. (I was kind of thinking out loud.) Torque does wedge the cone into the gear, after the oil is forced out it will lock.. If it is misshaped I can see it getting stuck in the gear. If the taper on both the gear and cone are not matched, then I could see it sticking. Once it does pop out.. can you feel it?? What I mean is, does the linkage free up and shift in and out of gear easily? That would tell us the cone is stuck to the gear and not the linkage hanging or binding..
How hot does the drive get?? Monster like that should stay pretty cool with all the oil in it?? If the gear is getting hot and expands and the cone just seats deeper, then maybe it just doesnt want to let go. If the cone has the ridges, like a bravo, do they all show the same wear? That might indicate a taper misalignment..
Like I a said.. thinking out loud.. hope it helps
D*ck
But my thought is that if the linkage is not pulling/pushing on it hard enough, it may not be letting it pop out. On the bravo the cam swings around and is hit by the spinner rings and are suppose to do the popping out as I have been told. (I was kind of thinking out loud.) Torque does wedge the cone into the gear, after the oil is forced out it will lock.. If it is misshaped I can see it getting stuck in the gear. If the taper on both the gear and cone are not matched, then I could see it sticking. Once it does pop out.. can you feel it?? What I mean is, does the linkage free up and shift in and out of gear easily? That would tell us the cone is stuck to the gear and not the linkage hanging or binding..
How hot does the drive get?? Monster like that should stay pretty cool with all the oil in it?? If the gear is getting hot and expands and the cone just seats deeper, then maybe it just doesnt want to let go. If the cone has the ridges, like a bravo, do they all show the same wear? That might indicate a taper misalignment..
Like I a said.. thinking out loud.. hope it helps
D*ck
The parts are essentially the same but everything is bigger.
Frank
05-10-2007, 12:16 PM
#8
Rob
VIP MemberThread Starter
Ok.. I thought we were talking about Bravo drive.. Now I really dont know what I am talking about.. I have yet to put my hands on a Bmax... and have not played with this problem on a bravo yet.
But my thought is that if the linkage is not pulling/pushing on it hard enough, it may not be letting it pop out. On the bravo the cam swings around and is hit by the spinner rings and are suppose to do the popping out as I have been told. (I was kind of thinking out loud.) Torque does wedge the cone into the gear, after the oil is forced out it will lock.. If it is misshaped I can see it getting stuck in the gear. If the taper on both the gear and cone are not matched, then I could see it sticking. Once it does pop out.. can you feel it?? What I mean is, does the linkage free up and shift in and out of gear easily? That would tell us the cone is stuck to the gear and not the linkage hanging or binding..
How hot does the drive get?? Monster like that should stay pretty cool with all the oil in it?? If the gear is getting hot and expands and the cone just seats deeper, then maybe it just doesnt want to let go. If the cone has the ridges, like a bravo, do they all show the same wear? That might indicate a taper misalignment..
Like I a said.. thinking out loud.. hope it helps
D*ck
But my thought is that if the linkage is not pulling/pushing on it hard enough, it may not be letting it pop out. On the bravo the cam swings around and is hit by the spinner rings and are suppose to do the popping out as I have been told. (I was kind of thinking out loud.) Torque does wedge the cone into the gear, after the oil is forced out it will lock.. If it is misshaped I can see it getting stuck in the gear. If the taper on both the gear and cone are not matched, then I could see it sticking. Once it does pop out.. can you feel it?? What I mean is, does the linkage free up and shift in and out of gear easily? That would tell us the cone is stuck to the gear and not the linkage hanging or binding..
How hot does the drive get?? Monster like that should stay pretty cool with all the oil in it?? If the gear is getting hot and expands and the cone just seats deeper, then maybe it just doesnt want to let go. If the cone has the ridges, like a bravo, do they all show the same wear? That might indicate a taper misalignment..
Like I a said.. thinking out loud.. hope it helps
D*ck
Thanks for the insight D*ck.Like Panther said its the same as a bravo.
I am thinking this could be it
cam swings around and is hit by the spinner rings
its will do it before the drive oil get hot,Its a water housing so I dont think its getting hot, I can touch the cap while it running and its just warm.
As far as linkage it feels like I am going to break the cable I am pulling so hard.It will pop out and shifts fine once I get it out.Until I get up running again and put a load on it. then it will stick again . Also coming off plane with the other drive still in gear with the sticking drive no load it doesn't make anydifferance on trying to pop it out of gear ,stuck the same .
Thanks for the replys
__________________
.
The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
.
The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
05-10-2007, 12:18 PM
#9
Rob
VIP MemberThread Starter
Rob,
Thats what I always thought. There is no way all the torque these engines produce, will not slip the clutch simply by the small amount of pressure the shift yoke and cam can apply. I think??
I know you are running B-Max drives. Is the shifting mechanism the same basic design as as a Bravo?
Vinny
Thats what I always thought. There is no way all the torque these engines produce, will not slip the clutch simply by the small amount of pressure the shift yoke and cam can apply. I think??
I know you are running B-Max drives. Is the shifting mechanism the same basic design as as a Bravo?
Vinny
I just dont see a cable ajustment causing this ,Does anybody else?????
__________________
.
The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
.
The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
05-10-2007, 12:56 PM
#10
VIP Member
VIP Member
I had one of mine that would come out of gear
somewhat harder than normal, the shifter would also
pulse, or ratchet when attempting to take it out of gear.
I replaced the gearset and the problem went away.
I'm more to believe the problem was due to the
brass eccentric sections of the gears being worn
down just enough that it doesn't snap the shift fork
and knock the cone out of the gear quickly.
somewhat harder than normal, the shifter would also
pulse, or ratchet when attempting to take it out of gear.
I replaced the gearset and the problem went away.
I'm more to believe the problem was due to the
brass eccentric sections of the gears being worn
down just enough that it doesn't snap the shift fork
and knock the cone out of the gear quickly.
