articfriends

You shim your pinion depth the same usually as what is was then check it with your pinion checker,it usually doesn't change much. You then mock the whole thing up and check your backlash,if it is off you leave your pinion depth shim alone but change your shim under the front big bearing race (or in my case I use a automotive pinion shim and remove the bearing from big gear vs removing the race from the case),Smitty

fountainfevr

Thanks very much for the info. It is helpful, berfore I got into this thing everbody said that I would not be able to do it because of th shimming no one ever really explained how to shim it. (If that makes sense) once again THANKS!

nordic95

Hey Smitty,

I like your idea of adding the auto shims behind the gear so you dont remove the race.But if you need more lash then you would have to remove some shim behind the race correct?Also what is that blue tool in your photo?I am just starting to rebuild my own drives,after setting up a ton of rears in my classic cars I figured it shouldnt be to hard.So I purchased all the tools and now Im looking for any pointers.Sorry for the hi jack od the tread.

Nordic95

Vinny P

The easiest way I have found to set the lash on the lower gears is to have a test race for the driven gear. I cut down the outside of the race a bit so it slids into the housing without having to be pressed in and hammered back out. After setting the lash up with the test race, I hammer in a new race and recheck the lash. I have not found the lash to change any between the 2 races.

nordic95

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I also have done this with the pinion bearing on rears for the same reason.I also tried it on the lower bearing for the pinion height in my drive and it worked also.But im just getting into drives and dont have much of a learning curve yet.

Nordic95

articfriends

The blue tool is a bearing puller that can pull a pinion bearing off the big gear on a bravo or most automotive rear end carriers or pinions without damaging the bearing,its a life saver when setting things up. Anthony,you are correct if your backlash was too tight the race has to come out of the housing in most instances. But what I started doing is if you were going to shim the race with lets say .025 to start I would put .015 under the big bearing race and install it in the housing new with press fit assist loctite,put the other .010 under the big gear bearing, then add or subtract or subtract shims as needed from the gear. I do this for several reasons,I have seen some lower housings that were slightly loose(race had spun) on the big bearing race and had to have the surface raised with a ***** punch bent 90 degrees and then put the race in with press fit asssist loctite and I really didn't want to pull the race back out unless absolutely neccesary. The automotive shims are cheaper too and it takes me just a few seconds to pull the bearing off the gear/press it back on compared to finagyling the race back into the housing,re-cleaning any aluminum,loctite,etc out,Smitty

nordic95

Do you locktite all the press in races into your cases?How hard to get the races out later when you have to rebuild?Also do you find the blue tool easier then a bearing seperator plate and a press?Where can I get "THE BLUE TOOL" from?Which auto pinion shims did you find fit the best,12 bolt chevy etc.?

Thanks Anthony

fountainfevr

i would like a blue tool also, wht is that thing called? I jus paid $152.00 for those cage bearings on the pinion shaft I didnt think I could save them to get the pinion gear off.

Mr Gadgets

You can pull any of the bearings off the gears with a press and seperator plate. At least I do it without hurting any of the bearings. I dont loctite any of the races in unless they are loose. I use a knurling tool to raise the metal on loose cases. It is a home made tool but it works ok and then I use 620 loctite to hold the race.
I like your idea of using shims on the propshaft gear.. Where do you get them from Smitty??

Nordic, got your pm, the video is still in the works. Been too busy to finish it. But I may work on it this winter.

Fountain Fever, are you refering to the tapered bearings on the pinion gear for the upper? They also can be removed with a press and separator plate.

Dick

articfriends

Randies ring and pinion sells the bearing puller tool, Dick is correct,on most outdrive gears you can just use a press plate and a 50 ton hyd press to knock bearings off but the puller allows you to also pull side bearings off most automotive differential carriers (using a impact gun) which are difficult to impossible to set up in the hyd press . I have heard someone other than Randies ring and pinion had copies of the bearing puller on E-bay but anyone interested in getting one can call them at 1-800-347-1188 ext 5539 brian anderson,tell him Steve at Smittys engine and transmission in Mi refered you to them,Smitty