Gimble bearing Question
#1
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So, I have been running a stock Bravo I on a Gimble housing that Begins with a OK ####serial #. I have purchased a Late Model IMCO Extreme Advantage SC split case upper to help handle the Supercharger, Made my Bravo I last a season behind 700 Plus ponies, thank you very much. I was told I need to switch to an XR gimble Bearing to handle the increased depth with big U- joints........of the input shaft, well checking part #'s they are both the same part # for the year and model of my gimble as per BAM Part # 30-862540A3
Bravo XR bearing is # 30-862540A3
Serial # OK Bravo I is # 30-862540A3
I know that OF and Before serial #'s use a different part # for the bearing...but everything after that uses #30-862540A3.....Bravo I, XZ, XR etc... what gives?
Do I need to change it or not? bearing is in great shape and shows no sign of wear or deterioration...
Where is Mr Gadgets when you need him....
Bryan
Bravo XR bearing is # 30-862540A3
Serial # OK Bravo I is # 30-862540A3
I know that OF and Before serial #'s use a different part # for the bearing...but everything after that uses #30-862540A3.....Bravo I, XZ, XR etc... what gives?
Do I need to change it or not? bearing is in great shape and shows no sign of wear or deterioration...
Where is Mr Gadgets when you need him....
Bryan
#2
Registered
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Maybe not. If IMCO recommends the new bearing in all their notices not knowing what their drive is being installed on. I think you could measure the depth and the length of the yoke for piece of mind.
Another thought. The xr bearing is offset forward in the race and has a red dot on the outer diameter. The center surface is even with the outer ring/race surface. The old bearings the center surface extended beyond or to the rear of the outer ring/race surface.
Hope this is of some help.
Another thought. The xr bearing is offset forward in the race and has a red dot on the outer diameter. The center surface is even with the outer ring/race surface. The old bearings the center surface extended beyond or to the rear of the outer ring/race surface.
Hope this is of some help.
#3
Lakeside Restorations.com
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Bryan,
Jim is correct. However if you are still unsure of what you have inside then you would be best off replacing it to be safe.. If my memory is correct The late model housings already have the Xr style bearing in it whether it is a std b1 or Xr..
Jamie / Lakeside
Jim is correct. However if you are still unsure of what you have inside then you would be best off replacing it to be safe.. If my memory is correct The late model housings already have the Xr style bearing in it whether it is a std b1 or Xr..
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#4
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Well I wiped away the grease and found a little red dot on the outside of the bearing.....I 'm good to go! it already had and XR bearing in there.....woo hooooo no more making tools for my project
Thanks for the help
Bryan
Thanks for the help
Bryan
#5
Charter Member #601
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Bryan,
Another concern is the trim limit spacers. If the new drive has the large cross bearings and you allow the trim to go full up it will pinch the input joint. When you switch from the old style small ujoint to the old style large ujoint the spacers should be installed in the trim rams.
Hope this helps...
Dick
Another concern is the trim limit spacers. If the new drive has the large cross bearings and you allow the trim to go full up it will pinch the input joint. When you switch from the old style small ujoint to the old style large ujoint the spacers should be installed in the trim rams.
Hope this helps...
Dick
#6
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Bryan,
Another concern is the trim limit spacers. If the new drive has the large cross bearings and you allow the trim to go full up it will pinch the input joint. When you switch from the old style small ujoint to the old style large ujoint the spacers should be installed in the trim rams.
Hope this helps...
Dick
Another concern is the trim limit spacers. If the new drive has the large cross bearings and you allow the trim to go full up it will pinch the input joint. When you switch from the old style small ujoint to the old style large ujoint the spacers should be installed in the trim rams.
Hope this helps...
Dick
Also any tips or tricks to putting the upper Back on the housing? Maily in regards to the shift cable into the jaws...How do you get it right and any tricks to make it easier?
Bryan
#7
Charter Member #601
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Bryan,
Back when the XR drives came out.. and people would switch from the B1 to an XR a kit was available for the gimble bearing and it included spacers that are installed inside the trim ram, that prevent the drive from tilting all the way up. I have seen drives that have not used the spacers and the input joints were scared where they hit. The ujoint caps will hit the yoke and damage it.
The easiest way to mount the drive is with a jack. I made a fixture that I put on my floor jack. Helps to do the heavy lifting, so I can align the shift cable. With the shift linkage protruding from the case.. the ball on the end of the cable will slide right in. Becareful not to bend the cable..
Hope this helps.
Dick
Back when the XR drives came out.. and people would switch from the B1 to an XR a kit was available for the gimble bearing and it included spacers that are installed inside the trim ram, that prevent the drive from tilting all the way up. I have seen drives that have not used the spacers and the input joints were scared where they hit. The ujoint caps will hit the yoke and damage it.
The easiest way to mount the drive is with a jack. I made a fixture that I put on my floor jack. Helps to do the heavy lifting, so I can align the shift cable. With the shift linkage protruding from the case.. the ball on the end of the cable will slide right in. Becareful not to bend the cable..
Hope this helps.
Dick