NeverSatisfied1

94 Bravo 1's w/ Kiekhaefer trim indicators and thru-hull exhaust only, block off plates on the exhaust bellow

I found 3 leaks through my transom on my boat this season. Both drives are leaking water through the transom around the driveshaft and there's a leak through the transom at the cable for my port k plane trim indicator. I have my drives pulled, gimble bearing checked and Ujoints greased every year (I'm pissed they didn't find the this last fall) so I am assuming no contingent damage at this point. No leak is excessive, but there is a steady trickle through each entry point

I found both shift cable bellows have ripped, but the UJoint bellow looks OK from what I can see. I've decided to tackle this myself. I plan to pull the drives, replace the shift bellow, Ujoint bellow, and water lines on both drives and inspect the gimble bearings and ujoints while I'm in there. I have NEVER done this before and I have a few questions

1. Where to buy the parts. I've seen there are aftermarket kits available, but no kit from Mercury. Is it better to go OEM on these parts. If so, What is a comprehensive parts list I'll need or where's the best place to get an aftermarket kit

2. Are any special tools needed? I've seen they sell a hinge pin removal tool. A bellow sleeve removal tool, a bellow sleeve installationg tool and driver, etc.

3. What's the proceedure for disassebling and resealing the Trim indicator where it mounts to the transom. Looks like the cable runs through a metal collar that threads into a metal housing that is screwed to the transom.

4. Any other suggestions of things to check replace while I'm in there

seafordguy

I did a driveshaft bellow and gimbal bearing replacement for myself the first time a couple weeks ago. I did not buy any special tools but did borrow an alignment tool from someone as well as a tool he had made himself to knock in the retainer ring from the backside - I am sure you could make one out of the right size PVC and a block on the end.

I did not get a hinge pin tool because I found it completely unneccesary to take that housing off. I would definitely buy an OEM Bellow Kit - should be no more than a hundred bucks but it comes with the clamps and retainer pin - everything needed.

You also want to purchase a new o-ring/gasket kit for reassembly, bellows adhesive, Spline Grease, and some 2-4-C to lube U-joints, other grease fittings. Merc also sells some o-ring assembly adhesive for the o-rings - I bought some and it seems to work well at holding everything together during reassembly

With regard to the Gimbal Bearing. Mine was ruined - if I was you I would consider replacing them anyways because if they have been filling with water they are probably destined for premature and poorly timed failure. There are two ways that the bearings are commonly installed. With a set of "grooves" in the outer housing that are about an inch long facing out and then the "OTHER" way. If they are facing out then you can simply place a screw driver on the edge of the bearing (not the housing) 90 degrees around the outer edge fromt he center of the "grooves" - knock it around until it is aligned perpendicular to the outer housing, and then literally pull it out of the two grooves with two fingers. Putting the new one in is just as simple - slide in perpendicular and then rotate 90 degrees. When you put new ones in you will want to ensure that the lubrication hole on the outside edge of the bearing aligns properly with the "crease" that is in the bearing housing.

Things I learned through reading on here and then applying during my job - Make sure that the Bellow is in it's grooves on both ends - on the bellhousing end it has to be in the SECOND groove (further towards the center of the bellow itself). Also - make sure you put the bellow in the correct way, as marked "top front". Also - when hammering in the retainer ring in the back it takes more hammering than you think it will but don't worry, the bellow will NOT slide out of the groove like you think it will. If you do the gimbal bearings, make SURE that you get that grease hold aligned correctly. Also, on Bravo's there seem to be two different bearings, one is "wider" than the other - I am not sure how critical it is but there is a difference.

I did not do the shift linkage because mine didn't look horrible - my driveshaft bellow had an odd tear in it.

It isn't nearly as hard a job, nor as frustrating, as you would think - in fact I am going to do my other drive just so that they were done at the same time.

ERIC

seafordguy

Pictures...

If your bearing looks like "B" you can use my method above - if it looks like "A" you have to pull the entire bearing and housing out with a slide hammer or other puller - I am sure you could rent something that would do the job at Advance Auto/Pep Boys/Autozone/Carquest/O'Reily's.

NeverSatisfied1

Thank you for all the input on the bellows and gimble bearing replacement. I greatly appreciate the detailed explanation.

Anyone have any experience with the Trim indicator assebly where it goes through the transom?

Also, I was thinking it made sense to either purchase or make a drive stand for this project. Any thoughts on where to get one or plans to make one?

Thanks in advance

seafordguy

Sorry - I don't have the standard trim assemblies - I have the ones that are bolted alongside the rams, so I just unbolted them and let them hang.

I have pulled my drives several times without a stand and it is always a pain in the ass - they are just plain awkward even with 2 people as you try to get the driveshaft back in and the shift cable aligned, and do it all in a hurry so you don't push the lube petcock in and end up with fluid everywhere. I think I will buy one before my next pull.

I have seen ones with jacks, without jacks, and made to use a floor jack with.

http://www.offshoreonlyclassifieds.c...o20513-en.html

Ones like this look like they would take a lot of the pain out of the process - although last time I used an engine lift and it made it somewhat easier....