TRS to SSM3 or 3a
07-25-2008, 05:27 PM
#11
Registered User
My Apache is torn down right now for that same reason- a #6 conversion. Mine ended up being a total re-rig. I couldn't stop taking off parts that weren't perfect and now I have a bare hull.
To do it right, you're going to have to cut out the transom from the inside and replace all the wood. Your X dimension will change so you'll need different tails for your exhaust. The steering is integral on the 6 so you'll lose the external rams- essentially an exterior re-do as well.
There is no better option- but be prepared for your boat to lose a few MPH. The 6 takes more juice to turn than the 3. You can get the wet one's converted to dry sump though and negate most of the loss.
The 41 is too heavy to live with the 3 drive. If you're over 750 on the 3 or 850 on the 3a, you're living on borrowed time. Under 850 in a 41 Apache is relatively uninspiring, unless it's one of the few ligter race hulls made.
Parts for the 3 aren't going to be any easier to find (or cheaper) in the coming years and you can buy 6's really right these days- sounds like a good winter project. If you need recommendations on people to do the conversion, let me know.
To do it right, you're going to have to cut out the transom from the inside and replace all the wood. Your X dimension will change so you'll need different tails for your exhaust. The steering is integral on the 6 so you'll lose the external rams- essentially an exterior re-do as well.
There is no better option- but be prepared for your boat to lose a few MPH. The 6 takes more juice to turn than the 3. You can get the wet one's converted to dry sump though and negate most of the loss.
The 41 is too heavy to live with the 3 drive. If you're over 750 on the 3 or 850 on the 3a, you're living on borrowed time. Under 850 in a 41 Apache is relatively uninspiring, unless it's one of the few ligter race hulls made.
Parts for the 3 aren't going to be any easier to find (or cheaper) in the coming years and you can buy 6's really right these days- sounds like a good winter project. If you need recommendations on people to do the conversion, let me know.
07-25-2008, 06:35 PM
#12
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Ok
This not for me a buudy who has a old 357 formula popped one of his trs drive he has rebuilt it and found two spares he brought at a good price
But in conversation he asked me if ssm3 drives would be a tough conversion
I told him konrads were a better option
Not knowing the conversion answer I decided to post the question to be better informed
From the responses it seemed like you could just text transom except x dim was to low
I was under the impression a 5 was basicaaly a3that was 2 inces shorter which would have resolved x dim issue so no filling of transom
Klaw
This not for me a buudy who has a old 357 formula popped one of his trs drive he has rebuilt it and found two spares he brought at a good price
But in conversation he asked me if ssm3 drives would be a tough conversion
I told him konrads were a better option
Not knowing the conversion answer I decided to post the question to be better informed
From the responses it seemed like you could just text transom except x dim was to low
I was under the impression a 5 was basicaaly a3that was 2 inces shorter which would have resolved x dim issue so no filling of transom
Klaw
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07-25-2008, 08:45 PM
#13
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chris... a couple of more questions for ya; 1. im running 17X29 props now and it seems a bit under proped, im turning 5300 rpm loaded down at gps 88 mph. any suggestions prop wise under the current configuration to get a few more mph?? 2. which would be a smarter move; to increase the hp to get the few mph i lose on a 6 conversion or buy the way more expensive dry sump? talked to 14 apache the other day and he said hes getting 102 on gps with wet sumps and around the same hp. i dont think he has a full cabin like mine so there is a huge weight difference but i would like to see steady 92-95 on gps if possible. oh and i didnt know you owned an apache which one you own?
07-25-2008, 11:37 PM
#14
Registered User
Every Apache is different- and there are dramatic weight variations among seemingly identical boats. His boat- the old Star Chaser, is one of the lighter race hulls with full stagger. HUGE difference. Maybe several thousand pounds.
I'm not sure what engines you're running but 5300 isn't an efficient max rpm for a big inch motor. Maybe for 632's. I think you can get more bang for your buck on motor power. Dry sumps are for squeezing those last couple MPH out.
As far as your props- since you're over-pitched maybe labbing them- but that's going to sacrifice some durability. If you go to the #6, suck it up and buy a set of Herings. It only hurts the one time when you write the check but it's free mph every time you use the boat.
Mine is an all white side-by-side pleasure. It's actually my second and my 4th Apache. I had a 28 and another 41 as well as a 36 that I traded on this 41. I started the 6 conversion then got busy with other things, then decided what I really wanted was a race hull, so my motivation to pour $$ into it that I wouldn't see back kinda waned. Then the market tanked.
I'm not sure what engines you're running but 5300 isn't an efficient max rpm for a big inch motor. Maybe for 632's. I think you can get more bang for your buck on motor power. Dry sumps are for squeezing those last couple MPH out.
As far as your props- since you're over-pitched maybe labbing them- but that's going to sacrifice some durability. If you go to the #6, suck it up and buy a set of Herings. It only hurts the one time when you write the check but it's free mph every time you use the boat.
Mine is an all white side-by-side pleasure. It's actually my second and my 4th Apache. I had a 28 and another 41 as well as a 36 that I traded on this 41. I started the 6 conversion then got busy with other things, then decided what I really wanted was a race hull, so my motivation to pour $$ into it that I wouldn't see back kinda waned. Then the market tanked.
07-26-2008, 01:08 PM
#16
Registered User
If you're breaking 3's, you'll break 5's. Same drive as the a, just shorter- typically used on extension boxes. More or less a surface drive-outdrive. Similar in dimension to the 6, but with the componentry of the 3.
Swapping to the #6 drive will definitely add value to your boat. Plus it will give youmuch greater room for growth- inevitably you'll want 600+cid with PSI blowers- and the 6 will accommodate you.
Swapping to the #6 drive will definitely add value to your boat. Plus it will give youmuch greater room for growth- inevitably you'll want 600+cid with PSI blowers- and the 6 will accommodate you.
07-27-2008, 12:41 PM
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If you're breaking 3's, you'll break 5's. Same drive as the a, just shorter- typically used on extension boxes. More or less a surface drive-outdrive. Similar in dimension to the 6, but with the componentry of the 3.
Swapping to the #6 drive will definitely add value to your boat. Plus it will give youmuch greater room for growth- inevitably you'll want 600+cid with PSI blowers- and the 6 will accommodate you.
Swapping to the #6 drive will definitely add value to your boat. Plus it will give youmuch greater room for growth- inevitably you'll want 600+cid with PSI blowers- and the 6 will accommodate you.
The #3 A is the same but NOT the reg. #3 !!!!!!!!!!!!
The reg #3 is not even comparible to a #4 !!!!!!!!!!!!
07-27-2008, 01:10 PM
#19
Registered User
Take some deep breaths and calm down.
The 3, 4 and 5 share the same basic architecture but suit different purposes. Sure there are a few different part numbes unique to each but for the purposes we're discussing here, none of that is the slightest bit relevant. None will cure his issue of breaking parts- but 6's will.
The 3, 4 and 5 share the same basic architecture but suit different purposes. Sure there are a few different part numbes unique to each but for the purposes we're discussing here, none of that is the slightest bit relevant. None will cure his issue of breaking parts- but 6's will.
07-27-2008, 03:00 PM
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Take some deep breaths and calm down.
The 3, 4 and 5 share the same basic architecture but suit different purposes. Sure there are a few different part numbes unique to each but for the purposes we're discussing here, none of that is the slightest bit relevant. None will cure his issue of breaking parts- but 6's will.
The 3, 4 and 5 share the same basic architecture but suit different purposes. Sure there are a few different part numbes unique to each but for the purposes we're discussing here, none of that is the slightest bit relevant. None will cure his issue of breaking parts- but 6's will.
Also a friend of mine is running #3A's on twinn 1200 HP with a heavy old 38 footer since 9 + years and never had a problem .
I bet you are thinking #3A's not #3's but the Apache has regular #3's . So ofcorse it will cure his problem with 3A's or 5's. also i agree that the #6 is the top of the line in sterndrives,but wy spend that kind of money when there is a cheaper way ?!
Buy the way ,do you rebuilt drives ?
A very good friend of mine does (Greg Colabella) and i have a #4 on my raceboat ,also i kind of deal with SSM Drives .
If you ever have a problem with Drives ,let me know !
Scott
