US1 Fountain

Yes, the floor in the case. Mine shows a .003 taper from the OD to ID of that race seat around the full dia., but flat around the dia. I get 4.982 measuring against and allowing for the .091 race, so will be 4.985 at the low area. (Just machine till it cleans up might be fine and still fall within specs?) The race also has about .035-.040 of total sideways race movement within the bore. A slight raising of material around the edge from the race turning, I assume. I compared against a new cap yesterday at the dealer to visualize the new cap race movement, which only had approx .010 clearance, but couldn't get the step dim. My cap is right at
.265 depth, with .025 sideways movement. It also has a slight raised lip of material. I'm just not sure if that much side movement is too much for the races, or if being way to particular. I had the housing set on the CNC to measure the tower and race surface. The tower was .002 off center from the cap bore side to side, and on center front/back. Not perfect, but I think acceptable. Checked out straight up/down.

If you feel this needs to be remachined, my initail thinking was to machine it down approx. .040 deeper and use the single .091 race instead of the new X gear upgrade race of .051. Wasn't sure about stacking shims here. This will give me a good flat face for the race to seat on and to be able to close up the OD to locate the race better, even though it will actually only locate on 1/2 of the race thickness. But now with the numbers you gave me, a simple clean up might surfice. The wife thinks I'm trying to build the perfect drive and worring too much.

I ordered the #28 supplement today to guide me on the lash setup. Now knowing the overall height between the race seats and being able compare between top and bottom to the input C/L and set them so the input is centered, that should leave the pinion depth to tackle.

Back onto the towers. Does the tower modification work with any yr Bravo or just the newer ones? The thin housing wall thickness, 5/16", on mine to the rear of the tower has me thinking the tower insert is confined to newer, thicker housings.

Thank you again very much.
Jerry

Mr Gadgets

Jerry,
I dont care to add a tower to the older cases, because they are thinner castings. I also dont have a tower to fit the old style gears with the taller bearing. Just not worth it, when the drive is much better off with the new gears. The shim on the new gears is wider, so using the .091" race isn't a good idea if you are going to the newer X gears.
I have stacked the races in the case and caps, it is a good repair that will make the race a thicker base.
As far as your large OD.. my case was cut for an Imco gear, back in the day. The shim was probably .125" or more, bigger OD. When I went to XR gears, the guy put epoxy in it to fill the void. It broke out and ended up with chunks.. So I took some needle bearing from one of the inner tower bearings and drilled 3 hole (by hand) around the recess. Pressed in the needle bearings and it located the race. They have been in there for over 300hrs. I havent looked at it for some time, but the drive still works.. So that may be a fix for you also.. That way you could stack them or just cut the .003" off and be good.

Hope this helps.
Dick

US1 Fountain

Dick,
You just saved me a ton of grief.

I only measured the OD of the 2 races for comparison, never even noticed the ID was different. I'll go your recommendation and install pins around the races to locate them better. Leaning towards machine the floor .050 deeper and stack shims/races since the floors are also lacking material at the ID in comparison to the X gear races. As you say, allows for a better thicker base with the extra support for the new wider needle bearings.

Thank you.

conquest30'

hey mr. gadgets i have a 94 bravo 1 thats going to need to be upgraded after my motor rebuild. im thinking about doing that upgrade you do the tower along with some other things. Is that something you can help me out with? you can email at [email protected] and talk about prices and stuff.... thx in advance

Mr Gadgets

Glad to help out!!

US1 Fountain

Found some conflicting info betwen my manuals.

In my #11 manual (up to '98), it states to use the 'II' mark for setting the lower pinion backlash on the B1. The #28 ('99 on up) manual says to use the 'I' mark. Is one a misprint? I got this pic a couple yrs ago, at which that time I was going by the #11 manual I was using and asked for the the 'II' dim to make a copy, hence the .950 marking. Now wondering if the 'I' is for B1, 'II' is for the B2.

BTW, I was notified that my order for the #28 supplement was canceled as it is NLA. Any ideas on who might still have one on their shelf? I'm having no luck finding one. I'm good to go for setting the input shaft dead center between the 2 gears, but have no reference as far as checking the pinion depth other than just reinstallling as originally and making sure there is some backlash.

Have you ever had any issues using the newer wider races in the older housings with the narrower race floors, too which the new wider needle bearings are unsupported by approx 1/16-3/32" on the ID? I spent some time to get more precise numbers now that I'm getting closer and find that I can just clean up the .003 floor wear taper, which will put my input shaft C/L dead center between both race floors and will keep all my numbers right at the middle of the numbers you gave me above. So may be no need to mill deeper. Thanks

Mr Gadgets

I'll have to look at that one.. I have been using the II mark.. hmmm ..
I will have to look at the manuals to answer this one. I think there maybe a new manual out that combines the 28 and 28 supplement. I saw something somewhere, just cant remember where..

There is a tool to measure the pinion depth on the upper case. It is suppose to be .025" from the tool to the face of the pinion.

conquest30'

hey mr. gadgets thanks again for your email, one last question? how many hp could that drive handle you quoted me?

Mr Gadgets

Depending on the boat weight, I forget what you said yours was.. but....... Driven with respect, NA motor... around 750hp..