US1 Fountain

Being a tool maker, I made mine. Same as the regular design, but made it longer and retained the abilty to turn the fitting w/o the hose turning.

Tinmans is just an off the shelf 1/2" shoulder bolt. The 1/2" has ther required 3/8-16 thread needed and also the undercut for the oring. Just gotta drill a hole thru the center (best if done on a lathe to keep it centered) and add a hose barb or whatever on the end.
Sholder bolts can be bought anywere, Menards, McMasterCarr.... just buy a long one.

tinman565

Exactly.

n20michael

OK, Thanks! I will give it a shot, Hopefully I can do it AND not lose any fingers, lol

n20michael

OK, I found a 1/2 shoulder bolt that will work, gonna see if I can find someone to mill a hole through it for me, just curious? How difficult is it to make it so the fitting turns and the hose doesn't? Thats SUCH a pain!

I was wondering if I could use an adapter or union to attach the "regular" fitting to the shoulder bolt, any ideas?

Thanks!
Michael

tinman565

That's why I used the pipe nipple on the end....then screwed on the male part of the quick disconnect. Now you can simply take it apart (at the quick disconnect) when installing, or removing the shoulder bolt from the drive. Even if you leave it together, the bolt turns freely in the qd setup, so the hose never twists or kinks.

Knot 4 Me

http://www.stevensinstrument.com/FillPts.htm
Scroll down to Hose Assembly Parts and look at parts 32-113 and 33TA. 33TA, when not attached to 32-113, will not flow gear lube. I thread 33TA into the drive, hook up the quick disconnect 32-113, fill, unhook 32-113 and then all you have to deal with is removing 33TA and replacing it with the drain plug. Again, the part you thread into the drive will not flow lube in either direction when not hooked up to the quick disconnect. You can adapt these parts to a homemade pump and not buy the expensive 3 gallon unit they are made for. Do note that 33TA is too fat to clear the prop shaft zinc on a Bravo I drive so you either have to remove the zinc or get the Bravo extension here: http://www.stevensinstrument.com/GrcsAdptrs.htm

n20michael

Thanks for the Idea's guys, I think I might buy another shoulder bolt, cut the "head" off it, and weld it to the top of the "other" shoulder bolt which will give me enough "meat" to tap it, then I will just screw the regular fitting [the one that lets the hose turn] into the longer shoulder bolt. It SHOULD work, I think? LOL

Mike

US1 Fountain

Dude, you are putting way too much work into it. Look at Tinmans pic. PLenty of meat to work with as it is. Just drill it 5/16" x 1/2" deep and tap it with a 3/8" tap so you can use your current turnable fitting. Drilll 1/8" or so thru . Done.

n20michael

I had considered doing that, but, I wasn't sure if there was enough "depth" on the head of the shoulder bolt for me to get enough of it tapped to screw the fitting in? I guess if you guys have done it, there must be enough meat. I will give it a shot.

Basically, I am "up here' in Ontario, and looking for boat related projects to keep me busy for the next 6 months when I will be bored senseless and freezing my azz off, LOL!!

I agree with you US1, I am probably putting too much thought into it, Its something I have a tendency to do, thanks for "reeeling me in"!!

Michael

US1 Fountain

Yep, the head thickness is fine. Actually, just the 1/2" OD of the shoulder bolt is large enough that the head thickness is of no relevance. A machine shop can drill and tap it for you in a couple minutes. Key is to keep the smaller thru hole centered at the ends....don't want the hole breaking into the threads. Drill 1/2 way thru from both ends if doing it at home with a hand drill.
Good Luck