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Dual Bravos...same clanking noise???

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Dual Bravos...same clanking noise???

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Old 06-19-2021, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by F14A water jet
Are you saying engine cam overlap? That is curious because I have just reduced the engine idle rpms to reduce stern drive engagement stress. The warm engines would hover about 1,000-1,100 rpms and I reduced that to ~750 rpms. I wonder if this is a new/induced vibration/noise due to that.
I have been warned about reveberation, so I may bump them back closer to 850...and maybe solve the issue.
KEEP THE INPUTS COMING... I take them all in and am getting a lot of good advise/experience.
Yes, thats what I'm talking about.
850rpms in neutral is fine for bravo drives.
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Old 06-21-2021, 10:20 PM
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FWIW, my Bravos behind my unmodified 6.2's idling at a measly 600 rpm have always clattered and had a minor vibration (as you describe) according to my ears on the muffs.
IMO, it's due to no load being on the props.
Run em until they quit.
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Old 06-22-2021, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by cheech
FWIW, my Bravos behind my unmodified 6.2's idling at a measly 600 rpm have always clattered and had a minor vibration (as you describe) according to my ears on the muffs.
IMO, it's due to no load being on the props.
Run em until they quit.
I can actually feel the clanking on the top observation plate / Drive showers... but I will bump the RPMs a little bit and see if that helps. Should be reunited with the boat in about a week.
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Old 06-23-2021, 06:39 AM
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When I saw the pic of the oil first thing that came to mind was Redline Heavy Shockproof. 5 posts later... good oil.
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Old 06-23-2021, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Rookie
When I saw the pic of the oil first thing that came to mind was Redline Heavy Shockproof. 5 posts later... good oil.
good to know!
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Old 06-23-2021, 08:23 AM
  #26  
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I've been using Merc Hi-Perf in my TRS drives for years. Power is increasing significantly this year... would Redline shockproof be a good upgrade?
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Old 06-28-2021, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by TomZ
I've been using Merc Hi-Perf in my TRS drives for years. Power is increasing significantly this year... would Redline shockproof be a good upgrade?
Redline was what the previous owner/rebuilder used. During my troubleshooting I changed fluid to AMSOIL synthetic on the recommendation of local marine parts/repair shop. AMSOIL has a little reputation for being too slick which results in slow shifts but if that occurs I will return to Quicksilver/Mercruiser.

Last edited by F14A water jet; 06-28-2021 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 06-28-2021, 04:56 PM
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Okay, new information. I bumped my idle up to 850/900 on one motor and the noise got significantly diminished. I can still "feel" some slop but I do not hear it as much. A local boat mech. visited and thought the drives were still a little loud (he also believes the drive shower caps might amplify the sound). Unfortunately, the noise in the drives is drowned out by the un-muffled exhaust :-)
So we pulled the observation cover on the port drive. Recall that I just did a fluid change and there was virtually no metal/hairs on the magnets and both drives looked identical.
I understand these drives were "worked on/freshened up" about 50-60 hours ago to accommodate 600hp motors.
(See Videos/pictures)
1) Is this too much "slop/play" in the top gear?
2) Should I add additional shim/spacer to the top ring (see picture below) to reduce the slop/play?
3) When I replace the top observation cover, do I need to do anything (gasket sealer?) for the O-ring...it looks to be in excellent shape (are they re-usable)?
THANKS!!!

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Old 06-28-2021, 05:33 PM
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You’ve removed what holds the clutch shaft and gear in place, it’s going to wobble around like it does in the video, put the top cap back on and remove the back cover and you’ll see that it moves very little
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Old 06-28-2021, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JaayTeee
You’ve removed what holds the clutch shaft and gear in place, it’s going to wobble around like it does in the video, put the top cap back on and remove the back cover and you’ll see that it moves very little
This plate? Does it have a gasket/O-ring or some sacrificial sealing method or can it be removed and re-installed?

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