BadDog

Just got the drive back from a teardown and inspection, installed new cable and adjusted per procedure here-
https://www.cpperformance.com/instru...ift-adjust.pdf
Shifts fine fwd and reverse but -sometimes- it will clink clunk going into fwd unless you snick the lever well forward quickly. Not the way I would like to shift a Bravo. I am thinking it may be best to bias the freeplay out and favor just a but more throw into forward as long a reverse behaves ok. Any issue with doing that to perhaps changing the mount positon bolt just a touch to allow more throw? Cone clutch was just inspected and deemed to be in fine shape so I am not suspecting anything there. Just occasionally if you shift very slowly it will jump before catching Fwd. It does engage immediately but just jumps one or twice, does not behave like the cone clutch is slipping. I had always thought the best way to shift a Bravo was slowly and let it wind into gear, this one seems to like to quickly, but without applying additional RPM, move the lever and it nicely locks into gear right quick. NOt talking about slimming it into gear, just a little faster than slow on the lever. So would a little more cable push into forward help this?

Also, there is a very slight light ticking in N and F but not R at idle. Perhaps a ting ting sound. Of course, you cannot hear it with throttle applied as there are other normal noises that are louder. I checked with the drive guy and he indicated it is likely the shifting shift fork rattling just a bit against the cone clutch and the older B3 was more susceptible to this, something about the ramps or forks were different in the older B3 but he was not certain of the model years the forks or ramps became the same PN. This drive is a 2003 or 2004 OM153nnn SN. I might like to think that moving the cable adjustment might lessen the fork contact. My B1 does not have this sound.

AllDodge

The instruction is a great place to start. It should not need to be shifted slow nor real fast, just move it and it will work.

I like to adjust on the trailer, motor running and disconnect lower cable from shift plate. Move the cable in and out until you find the middle, that middle is neutral. Adjust barrel nut so it just slides on

BadDog

Neutral so the barrel just slides in, there is a certain amount of play in the cable which is inherent to the tolerances. Presently the barrel slides in with some play forward and some play back. What I am sort of asking is if I should take the play out so any motion of the neutral detent at the control box will immediately move the cable toward forward gear instead of having to take up a little bit of play first. IOt shift perfect if you move the lever all the way toward forward just before the application of throttle indicating it likes a lot of cable travel. Perhaps I should double check the fork. Previous owner slammed it into gear and got the cone clutch stuck, that is why Ihad the whole drive torn down and inspected. Drive to linkage cable was replaced.

I guess I can just try it and see if it is happier that way.

AllDodge

I don't look for a specific fwd/rev, just feel for the middle. Had one older drive that it worked best when I increased the 3 inch height just a hair more about a 1/16

BadDog

Lengthening the 3-inch spec does increase the total cable throw. I assume that the 3-inch spec is what Merc has determined gives the proper amount of throw either in F or R.. With a little slop in the Comtrol box or cable from control box to bracket and possibly some wear in a pin or something in the shift fork mounts I can see it perhaps wanting more travel. Just going to try it and see. Nothing major, just a bit, and if that does not solve it will need to investigate internally.