Cone clutch replacement
12-04-2023, 10:38 PM
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Cone clutch replacement
I'm running a Bravo XR drive that needs a new cone clutch. I've got decent mechanical skills but not sure if this is a DIY project or not. I've rebuilt all kinds of gas diesel engines and stuff like that but don't have experience setting gear lash or stuff similar. Would you all consider this an easy job? Lots of videos online but they never show them removing the clutch cone. They always have it on the bench and removed from the drive.
12-04-2023, 11:30 PM
#2
VIP Member
VIP Member
If all you are doing is replacing the clutch cone, all you need is the spanner
wrench for the X retainer nut and a torque wrench for special tools.
Remove top cap, rear cap, shift shaft and fork, pinion retainer nut, then
remove the pinion assy, lift the driven gear cluster out.
Hold the gear stack upright with the splined end of the clutch shaft on
a bench/ table, use both hands and depress the top gear down and hold,
knock the collar on the vertical shaft down so the collar c clips are free,
remove the c clips, let up on the top gear, the garter spring should push
the gear back up, then you lift off the gear to get to the cone, remove the garter spring, remove and install new cone, install garter spring,
make sure the garter spring thrust bearing is still inside the gear,
install gear, collar, depress gear, collar, install both c clips, let up on the gear, garter spring should push the gear and collar back up into installed position.
install the gear cluster back on the case, the shift shaft/ fork, loctite the 2 screws that go into the shift shaft, if the thrust bearing was removed off the top gear, install, make sure the thrust race is in place on the top cap, install the top cap, torque is 25 ‘#s as I recall.
There is a + and a - on the eccentric rings on the driven gears, looking through the pinion opening, align the + of one gear with the - of the other gear at the
with the marks positioned at the centerline on the case, install the pinion assy,
torque the retainer nut( torque varies with wrench length, manual will have a chart for proper torque per length)
It would be wise to check pinion bearing preload , it should be 3-8 “/#s
before installing it back in the case, if it’s under 3, chances are it’s spun the
washer that goes between the input shaft and pinion gear, it will “ machine” itself against the face of the input shaft and that debris will go through the bearings, making them rough, requiring replacement, those have to be pressed off and back on the pinion, if you have to do this, torque is 6-10”/#s bearings lubed, loctite the pinion nut.
wrench for the X retainer nut and a torque wrench for special tools.
Remove top cap, rear cap, shift shaft and fork, pinion retainer nut, then
remove the pinion assy, lift the driven gear cluster out.
Hold the gear stack upright with the splined end of the clutch shaft on
a bench/ table, use both hands and depress the top gear down and hold,
knock the collar on the vertical shaft down so the collar c clips are free,
remove the c clips, let up on the top gear, the garter spring should push
the gear back up, then you lift off the gear to get to the cone, remove the garter spring, remove and install new cone, install garter spring,
make sure the garter spring thrust bearing is still inside the gear,
install gear, collar, depress gear, collar, install both c clips, let up on the gear, garter spring should push the gear and collar back up into installed position.
install the gear cluster back on the case, the shift shaft/ fork, loctite the 2 screws that go into the shift shaft, if the thrust bearing was removed off the top gear, install, make sure the thrust race is in place on the top cap, install the top cap, torque is 25 ‘#s as I recall.
There is a + and a - on the eccentric rings on the driven gears, looking through the pinion opening, align the + of one gear with the - of the other gear at the
with the marks positioned at the centerline on the case, install the pinion assy,
torque the retainer nut( torque varies with wrench length, manual will have a chart for proper torque per length)
It would be wise to check pinion bearing preload , it should be 3-8 “/#s
before installing it back in the case, if it’s under 3, chances are it’s spun the
washer that goes between the input shaft and pinion gear, it will “ machine” itself against the face of the input shaft and that debris will go through the bearings, making them rough, requiring replacement, those have to be pressed off and back on the pinion, if you have to do this, torque is 6-10”/#s bearings lubed, loctite the pinion nut.
12-05-2023, 12:49 PM
#3
Registered
Thread Starter
Thanks Jaay. Seems straightforward enough for me to handle. I'm assuming it's always best to just replace it? I saw a video last night where a tech just roughed it up with valve lapping compound. Seemed interesting but for all the trouble of taking it apart I'll just put a new one in.
12-05-2023, 08:30 PM
#4
Registered
Just call Mercury up and order a parts manual along with the overhaul book. The manual will give you all the spec’s. Some tools you can make yourself. Otherwise not too bad price wise. Especially if you buy them used. You can also make a drive lift using a floor jack and make a drive stand from 2x4’s. Do a search online.
