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TRS gimbal housing won’t come off

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Old 07-13-2024, 03:28 AM
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Default TRS gimbal housing won’t come off

Can someone with experience confirm that the TRS gimbal housing is held in place only with 8 lock nuts on the inner plate? I just want to be sure that there’s no hidden bolt or nut when I’m hammering and prying on it.
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Old 07-13-2024, 08:43 AM
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Confirmed only the 8 nuts, the studs stay with the outer. Someone may have put 5200 sealer on it which is tough to get loose. If you can try to tap a thin putty knife around the outside to loosen it up. I suggest using some masking tape and then duck tape around the drive when doing so. It will protect the gel coat while sliding the knife in. Once you get it loose put the nuts back on to the end of the stud and use a dead blow hammer to get it apart. Good luck.

Oh, don't forget there are a couple of small ground cables as well.
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Old 07-13-2024, 09:28 AM
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Thanks, that helps. I think I’ll order a long knife and piano wire and protect the gelcoat as you suggest.
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Old 07-13-2024, 09:50 AM
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There are a number of products these days that will help big time with 5200 or other sealants. Start with the putty knife around the edges, spray this stuff on and give it a day or two.

Try Debond or Anti Bond, Amazon or West marine

Amazon Amazon
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Old 07-13-2024, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Mbam
There are a number of products these days that will help big time with 5200 or other sealants. Start with the putty knife around the edges, spray this stuff on and give it a day or two.

Try Debond or Anti Bond, Amazon or West marine

https://www.amazon.com/Debond-MF10US.../dp/B0BMSRG4W3
im sure it’s been said here before, but you are always so helpful on here and your website is a great tool. Always order from you guys and never feel compelled to price shop due to your participation here…..

Thank you.

PS - OP - I just bought an old TRS Donzi out of a field and I am dreading getting the TA off when I start the resto. Inner plate is missing but the outer doesn’t seem inclined to fall off on its own…..
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Old 07-13-2024, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mbam
There are a number of products these days that will help big time with 5200 or other sealants. Start with the putty knife around the edges, spray this stuff on and give it a day or two.

Try Debond or Anti Bond, Amazon or West marine
seafordguy said it already, very helpful and this would probably solve my problem. Unfortunately I can’t ship it here due to hazmat regulations so I’m stuck with elbow grease, sigh.
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Old 07-13-2024, 10:04 PM
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Thank you so much, I am truly appreciative of your comments. And your loyalty as a customer!
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Old 07-14-2024, 12:59 AM
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Mbam I feel a bit ignorant now that I didn’t know that you are selling the parts I need for my boat. Until now I gathered the parts in eBay, a nut here and a washer there, each time with shipping costs. Will definitely look into your stock for my next order.
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Old 07-15-2024, 04:17 PM
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Seaford what did you get ? How did you find it ?

We need or i need an official;
know a guy that knows a guy who has a cousin who's neighbor down the street drives by an old (xxxx) sitting in a field and the owner wants it gone thread

cuz they're out there and i need another project, a keeper, small single. 20 foot max, leaning ski boat but 16-18 donzi, a u17, a resorter, small light, small block direct drive is tops but a sawzall and tape measure fits a donor vdrive into a 16-18

Last edited by outonsafari; 07-15-2024 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 07-17-2024, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Zoom
Confirmed only the 8 nuts, the studs stay with the outer. Someone may have put 5200 sealer on it which is tough to get loose. If you can try to tap a thin putty knife around the outside to loosen it up. I suggest using some masking tape and then duck tape around the drive when doing so. It will protect the gel coat while sliding the knife in. Once you get it loose put the nuts back on to the end of the stud and use a dead blow hammer to get it apart. Good luck.

Oh, don't forget there are a couple of small ground cables as well.
I followed your advice and used a long serrated bread knife to cut into the gasket. Luckily there was no sealant on the transom side of the gasket. Pried it open a bit with some old screwdrivers (I know, not the best way) until I could slide the knife all the way through. Then started hammering from the inside with the nuts back on. Took me 2 hours, destroyed all nuts but I got it off.
There was a white sealant from the inside but definitely not 5200. I wonder if it’s a good idea to have no sealant on the outside of the transom so water can seep in and then it’s trapped by the sealant on the inside. Anyway the transom is in great shape, no visible rot. Not too bad for a 37 year old boat.
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