Audio Upgrades
#31
Charter Member # 55
Charter Member
Originally Posted by [email protected]
Wow it doesnt even let me view PM's until I have the 10 posts
it is to prevent scammers from joining and immediately sending PM's to member's wanted ads. It has been an increasing problem.
#32
Registered
I'm going also agree with others that you don't need 2 amps.
In the past I've run up to 4 class A/B amps. They generate a lot of heat, and suck a lot of current , and there are a lot of extra wiring and distribution blocks, fuse blocks needed to use this type of set up. When I bought my Cigarette 39 it had two random junk amps and I replaced them with a single Focal class D amp. It powers 6 JL Audio Mid-range speakers, 6 tweeters, and 2 subs. Sound is every bit as good as when I was using very large and expensive JL Audio slash amps. PLUS my batteries last a lot longer. Find a nice quality 5/6 channel amp with the power you need and you will be happy. I'm using the Focal FDP 6.900 and am very happy with it.
In the past I've run up to 4 class A/B amps. They generate a lot of heat, and suck a lot of current , and there are a lot of extra wiring and distribution blocks, fuse blocks needed to use this type of set up. When I bought my Cigarette 39 it had two random junk amps and I replaced them with a single Focal class D amp. It powers 6 JL Audio Mid-range speakers, 6 tweeters, and 2 subs. Sound is every bit as good as when I was using very large and expensive JL Audio slash amps. PLUS my batteries last a lot longer. Find a nice quality 5/6 channel amp with the power you need and you will be happy. I'm using the Focal FDP 6.900 and am very happy with it.
#33
BEACH PARTY / HOLLOWPOINT
Platinum Member
I know this is a little late, but I'm a "yes" for the single amp suggestions. I went a little smaller with a PDX-5M, though it's birth sheet comes close to the PDX-V9. Speakers are Polk DB-series with four 6.5s and two 6x9s (and a pair of 6.5's to add). There is also a sealed 10-inch DB-series sub. These are in the cockpit of my 311. The Kenwood headunit runs the cabin speakers (also DB-series 6.5s). I bought the amp used off Craigslist back when I still had my 242. Seven years later it's still putting in work. It sounds clean and is loud for what it is. I've thought about moving up to the V9, but so long as this one is working, I do not see the need. The single amp made for an easy wiring scheme too. I definitely recommend the single 5-channel route.
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Griff (01-07-2022)
#34
Registered
Thread Starter
Kenwood Headunit
(2) 10" M3 JL Audio Subwoofers
(2) 8" DS18 Hydro Speakers
(2) 6.5" DS18 Hydro Speakers
(1) 800watt RMS Monoblock Amp (Skar Audio)
(1) 500watt RMS 4 Channel Amp (Skar Audio)
I have roughly $1400 in the setup give or take including all of the wiring and fuses. I do plan on adding in another pair of 6.5 to the side of my seat bolsters and either two more subs in the back seat or a pair of 10" Speakers. So a bigger channel amp will be in my future for sure.
Hope you like some photos
And finally with all the interior back in
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#35
Registered
I have a 272 , 2 JLw6 in fiberglass rear bench lower storage tub ,2 jl 6.5 mounted into the fiberglass forward lower of the 2 booster seats, and the 2 main players ,are the 2 7.7 CDT audio pro drivers mounted in pods down in the storage area below the cupholders.
I have found the factory speaker openings behind the rear cupholders terrible. Locating speakers forward of the bolsters is much better but will require some custom mods to clear shifter on right side.
Running the wires to a distribution block up in front cabin and locating amps there is much better for longevity than anywhere else on this boat.
the rear bench seat bottom structure ,only after it has been sealed air tight on top sides and bottom becomes a very good , by boat standards , sub enclosure. You will lose the under seat storage. Will also lose some engine noise transmitted to cabin . And you will lose the natural water drainage to the bildge from the center floor.bring extra towels or add a drain. If you put baffles behind the cabin speakers it will improve sound dramatically, aluminum can light pods will fit behind the 272 side panels.
if you have the v belt alternator like I do you will probably be happier with class d amps if you seal up the sub enclosure and install cast basket subs get a separate sub amp that will do them justice.
I have found the factory speaker openings behind the rear cupholders terrible. Locating speakers forward of the bolsters is much better but will require some custom mods to clear shifter on right side.
Running the wires to a distribution block up in front cabin and locating amps there is much better for longevity than anywhere else on this boat.
the rear bench seat bottom structure ,only after it has been sealed air tight on top sides and bottom becomes a very good , by boat standards , sub enclosure. You will lose the under seat storage. Will also lose some engine noise transmitted to cabin . And you will lose the natural water drainage to the bildge from the center floor.bring extra towels or add a drain. If you put baffles behind the cabin speakers it will improve sound dramatically, aluminum can light pods will fit behind the 272 side panels.
if you have the v belt alternator like I do you will probably be happier with class d amps if you seal up the sub enclosure and install cast basket subs get a separate sub amp that will do them justice.
#36
VIP Member
VIP Member
Originally Posted by [email protected]
Hi Brad, Sorry about this I was going to reach out and life got sidetracked and I completely forgot about this thread. When tearing out the old audio I found that the head-unit was actually a pretty new model Kenwood that had all the needed outputs so I just decided to stay with it. I definitely went on somewhat of a budget with audio but I am seriously impressed with the quality of sound my setup produces. Below is a breakdown of what I went with....
Kenwood Headunit
(2) 10" M3 JL Audio Subwoofers
(2) 8" DS18 Hydro Speakers
(2) 6.5" DS18 Hydro Speakers
(1) 800watt RMS Monoblock Amp (Skar Audio)
(1) 500watt RMS 4 Channel Amp (Skar Audio)
I have roughly $1400 in the setup give or take including all of the wiring and fuses. I do plan on adding in another pair of 6.5 to the side of my seat bolsters and either two more subs in the back seat or a pair of 10" Speakers. So a bigger channel amp will be in my future for sure.
Hope you like some photos
And finally with all the interior back in
Kenwood Headunit
(2) 10" M3 JL Audio Subwoofers
(2) 8" DS18 Hydro Speakers
(2) 6.5" DS18 Hydro Speakers
(1) 800watt RMS Monoblock Amp (Skar Audio)
(1) 500watt RMS 4 Channel Amp (Skar Audio)
I have roughly $1400 in the setup give or take including all of the wiring and fuses. I do plan on adding in another pair of 6.5 to the side of my seat bolsters and either two more subs in the back seat or a pair of 10" Speakers. So a bigger channel amp will be in my future for sure.
Hope you like some photos
And finally with all the interior back in
All good. It was an offer, not a request.
Nice install, BTW. I managed to tuck an 8” Bazooka tube up under the gunwale in my left side pocket. I originally had it strapped to the floor on the left side of the engine well, but it made the swim deck rattle too much and sounded like crap. After relocating the Bazooka tube, the overall sound is awesome.
The installed pics are actually from before I built the support cradle, and was just trying to hang it from straps. This didn’t work out well, as the Bazooka would jostle loose too easily. After building the cradle, and the PITA installation, the Bazooka is actually much less visible, but in the same location. I also painted the cradle with white FlexSeal.
I would recommend Bazooka tubes to anyone without an obvious location for a sub. Just don’t contain them.
Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991
Last edited by Brad Christy; 01-12-2022 at 12:06 PM.
#37
Registered
Thread Starter
That looks great Brad, I agree even with the JL's being an infinite baffle subwoofer you cannot beat the performance of a sub with a full enclosure. I do like the idea of using the bazooka tube setup and i'm thinking I would have enough room to get away with that in my side pockets aswell.
#38
Registered
I have killed some old school Phoenix zx600 titanium fosgate 800.2 couple of fosgate dsm Amps (lots of power in small footprint) and a clarion pro audio back up amp mounted there , couldn't keep em from getting wet ,wet people in seat water from people getting on off platform ect ,put new amps on a rack up in cabin pulled the heavy azz ported 12 out of the bildge storage and added a mid floor drain in the center floor panel .2 jl 10w6 in the bench base with steel mesh grills ,duct tape a plastic cover over the access holes under seat bottom ,siliconed every gap on the base to make enclosure air tight .night and day difference . BTW from what I have seen those skar amps deliver good bang for the buck and hold up decent on marine builds
#39
Registered
And if you can find one , the procharger efi mag throttle bell and remote k and n filter kit makes a unbelievable difference in engine noise underway .its almost like having a electric boat with the diverters turned off .
#40
Registered
Thread Starter
I have killed some old school Phoenix zx600 titanium fosgate 800.2 couple of fosgate dsm Amps (lots of power in small footprint) and a clarion pro audio back up amp mounted there , couldn't keep em from getting wet ,wet people in seat water from people getting on off platform ect ,put new amps on a rack up in cabin pulled the heavy azz ported 12 out of the bildge storage and added a mid floor drain in the center floor panel .2 jl 10w6 in the bench base with steel mesh grills ,duct tape a plastic cover over the access holes under seat bottom ,siliconed every gap on the base to make enclosure air tight .night and day difference . BTW from what I have seen those skar amps deliver good bang for the buck and hold up decent on marine builds
Yeah I actually just installed this aftermarket adapter and Flame arrestor this winter. The factory plastic one was all cracked and falling to pieces. The Hardin Marine and K&N unit was the cheapest and most accessible one that I could find.