Gmoney52

Dave, smart choice on the countersink bit AND hand drill! If they had used that bit before they screwed it, you wouldn't be fixin' chips or stress cracks.
Question, do you use epoxy on all boats or just epoxy ones? I have been using DynaGlass short hair to fill and poly glaze to finish [piranha putty] and hope I haven't been screwin' up. Thanks, G$

Gmoney52

OOOPS, My bust! I re-posted when I didn't see the initial post; didn't realize it was under this thread of epic proportions! It looks like there were many graduates from the SHK!(School of Hard Knocks) You guys have shared stuff that could only be acquired from years of experience. Thanks, I am learning alot from you guys! G$

Gmoney52

I just had to elaborate on the significant improvement that getting out of the water and dry sanding clear-coat has made for us as Dave recommended. ( post #67 on page 4)
We use DFX11 in our clear and sand the next day (no more than 3 days w/DX61) using#1200 3M Hookit finishing discs [#952] on a Dynabrade orbital air sander (DA) w/ 3M Hookit pad[#5775] and interface pad as Dave strongly suggests [#5773]. Use 60-75psi ( minimize heat) and a clean rag to wipe the sanding residue from both the disc and the sanded surface to monitor the progress, prevent "pigtails", and extend the life of the disc.
Dave [p#87/5] and tssteph [p#89/5] both recommend foam pads (3M#5723) over wool ones. I love em' too; no lint and easy to clean. We use them w/ Perfect-It III X-tra cut compound (#5936). On black or dark colors, the black foam pad (#5725) and Finesse or machine glaze will produce a flawless finish. We do 10+ boats a week and if we were not using this process, we would never go home! At first I thought the re had been smokin' something when I first heard about dry sanding clear-that sounded crazy! Wet sanding has it's limited applications, but not on this clear! G$

glassdave

G . . .you just described my excact process, very simple and straight forward use of some great products. dont know if you have had a chance to use the Trizak 3000 yet but it takes it one step further and makes the buffing even easier. this step is done wet and cuts buffing time by about 50%. funny i hated this stuff when i first tryed it. i didnt follow directions and did it without the intermideate pad, it was a mess and will not work. had that box of disks on my shelf for along time before i stumbled on the proper method while talking to my rep one day (i gotta learn to read things ). you aint kid'n about getting your sanding done in the first few day either . . . nuthing like trying to polish a rock

Gmoney52

Dave, used them once and loved them! Our supplier wouldn't get them because nobody else was asking for them. Trizak disc last a long time ( keeping wet is paramount) and are the best I have seen on old Imron and other "rocks". G$


I think I have gas....

glassdave

its OK . . . i dont think even you can kill this thread

Sean H

this thing still going?

got my boxes today, haven't had time to open them yet....

glassdave

stuff looks kinda like this . dont forget those Dane hinges are in there to (those wrong ones we got from fred). hows your MTI search going

Sean H

i found it (well, build it)... just have to pay for it now.

should be cool..... going all carbon layup...

packinair

just bringing this around for 1 more lap cause someone is looking for it