Painting
#1
Painting
Well it's not boating related but.......
The clear on my pickup has seen better days, just too long out in the weather and years of buffing have taken it's toll. I'd like to wet sand and reshoot the clear, will this work? If so, what should I shoot it with? I've sprayed a lot over the years, just never a car or truck, using urathanes including Imron. I guess I would be shooting a laquer.
The truck in a 92 Toyota, no rust and only 60K miles.
So what do ya think?
The clear on my pickup has seen better days, just too long out in the weather and years of buffing have taken it's toll. I'd like to wet sand and reshoot the clear, will this work? If so, what should I shoot it with? I've sprayed a lot over the years, just never a car or truck, using urathanes including Imron. I guess I would be shooting a laquer.
The truck in a 92 Toyota, no rust and only 60K miles.
So what do ya think?
#2
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Location: Charlotte, NC
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Re: Painting
I wouldn't use lacquer unless:
1. the clear was solid and NOT flaking
2. it was an OEM finish
3. I already had the lacquer and wanted to use it on something
4. I wanted to work hard unnecessarily to punish myself for all the things I got away with, but never got caught.
Seriously, sand smooth w/ #400, dust at least 1 coat of color(single stage if solid) then put 1 tack coat of clear, wait 10 min. and coat w/2 wet coats of clear. Good luck-keep me posted. G$
1. the clear was solid and NOT flaking
2. it was an OEM finish
3. I already had the lacquer and wanted to use it on something
4. I wanted to work hard unnecessarily to punish myself for all the things I got away with, but never got caught.
Seriously, sand smooth w/ #400, dust at least 1 coat of color(single stage if solid) then put 1 tack coat of clear, wait 10 min. and coat w/2 wet coats of clear. Good luck-keep me posted. G$
#3
Re: Painting
Originally Posted by Gmoney52
I wouldn't use lacquer unless:
1. the clear was solid and NOT flaking
2. it was an OEM finish
3. I already had the lacquer and wanted to use it on something
4. I wanted to work hard unnecessarily to punish myself for all the things I got away with, but never got caught.
Seriously, sand smooth w/ #400, dust at least 1 coat of color(single stage if solid) then put 1 tack coat of clear, wait 10 min. and coat w/2 wet coats of clear. Good luck-keep me posted. G$
1. the clear was solid and NOT flaking
2. it was an OEM finish
3. I already had the lacquer and wanted to use it on something
4. I wanted to work hard unnecessarily to punish myself for all the things I got away with, but never got caught.
Seriously, sand smooth w/ #400, dust at least 1 coat of color(single stage if solid) then put 1 tack coat of clear, wait 10 min. and coat w/2 wet coats of clear. Good luck-keep me posted. G$
#4
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Re: Painting
I can't believe that the clear is intact. If you can sand the whole truck and create only white sanding dust, then you don't need to use color, only clear. I like PPG 2021 clear- plenty of temperature range reducers and hardeners availible and buffs out great if need be. G$
#5
Re: Painting
Originally Posted by Gmoney52
I can't believe that the clear is intact. If you can sand the whole truck and create only white sanding dust, then you don't need to use color, only clear. I like PPG 2021 clear- plenty of temperature range reducers and hardeners availible and buffs out great if need be. G$
#6
Re: Painting
I agree with -Gmoney- PPG 2021 is a great clear. As a matter of fact I Just finished washing some out of my gun. However I don't know that I would recomend just shooting clear over your existing surface. I would at least recomend shooting some base over the truck first, It would be no more work, Maybee 2 more hrs. to shoot & a little more money. It also depends on the quality you are looking for. If you are looking to get out as cheap as possible you can get some cheaper clear such as omni, but I personally would not recomend going that way. I would also definatly NOT recomend using a laquer clear. ---Just my 2 cents.---
#7
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Re: Painting
rebase paint if you dont want a mess. it will look MUCH better. it unlikley you find laquer clear. take it to a car wash & blow out the seams, door jambs ect. it will help on the dirt getting in the paint. be very careful you can get in trouble fast if you dont know what your doing. if you need help call me Jeffs auto body 270 442 1777
Last edited by customryder; 09-01-2005 at 06:20 PM.
#8
Re: Painting
Should I go with PPG base then as well? If I sand with 400 I don't have any color coming, even checked with a white rag, up so the clear is still there, just not going to make it much longer. Figured it would be a good weekend to shoot it since gas is too damn expensive for the boat. I want the job to look decent but not looking for perfection either.
Should I just sand the entire truck with 400 wet or dry?
I planned on powerwashing the entire truck and hitting with compressed air to make sure all the dirt is out.
BTW, I don't know what I am doing, never shot 2021 or ever painted a car. Do pretty good on odd stuff around the house and shoot a fair amount of Imron.....well a couple of times a year.
Should I just sand the entire truck with 400 wet or dry?
I planned on powerwashing the entire truck and hitting with compressed air to make sure all the dirt is out.
BTW, I don't know what I am doing, never shot 2021 or ever painted a car. Do pretty good on odd stuff around the house and shoot a fair amount of Imron.....well a couple of times a year.
Last edited by mr_velocity; 09-01-2005 at 07:45 PM.
#9
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Re: Painting
if you have all ready sanded with 400 grit you will need to re-base the truck, you will see the sand scratches if you don't. use all one brand, the base is pretty expensive by the time you buy reducers. just take your time & watch very close at what the clear is doing when you spray it, as to dry or to wet, just spray medium coats at first. air pressure, reducer harder temp, air cap is very important the head needle size needs to be 1.3 any larger & the paint will be "orange peel" i would recommend you practice on a old door or fender to get a feel of what the paint is doing. most people start off applying the paint to wet resulting in runs.
#10
Re: Painting
Originally Posted by customryder
if you have all ready sanded with 400 grit you will need to re-base the truck, you will see the sand scratches if you don't. use all one brand, the base is pretty expensive by the time you buy reducers. just take your time & watch very close at what the clear is doing when you spray it, as to dry or to wet, just spray medium coats at first. air pressure, reducer harder temp, air cap is very important the head needle size needs to be 1.3 any larger & the paint will be "orange peel" i would recommend you practice on a old door or fender to get a feel of what the paint is doing. most people start off applying the paint to wet resulting in runs.
My gun is a DevilbissJGA-935 with a 1.4 tip, I'll pick up a smaller tip tomorrow.
Last edited by mr_velocity; 09-01-2005 at 08:38 PM.