Audiofn

The wood in the stringer is not what gives the stinger its strenght from what I have been told. It is the glass. The wood gives the glass support. If you cut it up at a angle then you should be fine. This will also get rid of your wet wood. The only way to get rid of the wet wood is to cut it out.

jeff32

sorry for your problem but very interesting to read and see pictures... Good luck!

offshoreratboy

Well...I got the whole frig'n thing out last night. The other side was alot harder to get out. I would say 12 hours total to cut out the transom. Not counting the mechanicals. My hands look as if they were on a hunting trip with Dick Cheney. Holes everywhere. (real men don't wear gloves...real stupid ones at least). I have decided to cut the stringers, going to do that part this week end. Looking ahead, what materials should I use for this job. Keeping in mind that I will be filling the wholes and gelcoating the exterior of the transom. My old timer buddy tells me to use West sytems boatyard resin and matt cloth. With marine-tex on all the seams. But I'm sure that epoxy is the better choice. Also have been told not to bother with marine grade plywood, by two different and reputable glass shops. I sure ain't looking forward to paying $80 a sheet but I certainly don't want to compromise the job. What do you think? Here are some pics of the transome removed, note how high Formula ran the stringers up the transom.

Car Biz

That is for dayum sure

offshoreratboy

You know it Jeremy!

Joe

Car Biz

BTW starting on it tonight Joe

offthefront

That info is correct on the Plywood ... I would just use the good both sides 3/4" .... Use the west systems epoxy and use the high Density filler ...when you mix that stuff it sticks to anything .... Where is the wet wood on the Stringer ? Right where it "T's" into the Transom ? On my 311 there was about 1/2 inch or so gap where the Stringer tied into the transom ... the Glass of course is tabbed in to the transom glass .... If that is where the wet wood is .... I would cut back till you get to good dry wood and then remove the outer layer or two of plywood ... leaving the center layers ..then you can overlap the new wood over the old plywood ...
look at the pics of the 311 stringer ....it carries that same height almost all the way forward .....m

offthefront

come on down ..........

bentherb4

Regular exterior grade plywood is what we always use. We use vinylester unless the boat is kevlar or built with epoxy. Transoms usually only rot because manufacturers send them out of the factory with areas of the wood exposed to water. Just make sure to completely encapsulate your transom with fiberglass BEFORE you use any gel coat. Don't put any wood down in the drain plug area. I usually use a hole saw in this area and cut out a 2" area and after I set the transom i fill it with Adtech and then glass over it. This way even if you don't seal your drain plug assembly water can't get to the wood. Also if you cut away a small portion of the stringer you can use glass to tab the stringer into the new transom and you will be fine. One thing to note is that you do not get GP resin. You don't want to be rushed and GP resins are usually faster curing and also inconsistent. Laminating or vinylester will give you a lot more working time. Epoxy is definitely superior but you have to get mat designed without a polyester binder for use with epoxy. Most boats are built with polyester.

duunoit

the 3/4 exterior grade plywood they sell at Lowe's is 7 ply with knot free sheathing on both sides (9 ply).