tssteph

My questions is how is the top deck painted? Size wise on some of the bigger cats must be difficult.

GeoGraphics

I wouldn't say that is a secret. Painting the base colors is not an issue as the stripes or graphics are taped off and you basicaly climb right on the deck. Most of the time you have to find an area or a body line that you can break off the clear into sections by "Soft Edging" the clear coat. If that can't be done, tape off to the rub-rail, then you get out the big and tall staging that rolls over the entire boat and have the hired help roll you over the boat as you spray the clear. Hulls that have no rub-rail, I "Soft Edge" at the leading edge of the deck and hull sides.

It is kind of complicated to explain but I hope this helps.

Chris

BOATMAN302

The correct terminology that i was trying to get accross is called bridgeing. The best way to explain it is a seperation or mounding of the product after you tighten a accessory down onto the finish. The last time I used diamont clear it was DC 92, that was along time ago. We liked the product but were not pleased with the color matches. Find croma premier much more user friendly and not as aggressive as the older daimaont. Like I say that was a long time ago, probably 11 years. Someone on oso said that he has had great success with Standox under the water line for extended periods of time. I did my 302 formula 8 years ago with croma premier and like you say it looks like the day you sprayed it. My bottom is original gel coat. We do a lot of boats, and i find it hard to get the gel to come up and stay there.

98itrwhite

i see there many diff. clears that R/M makes. one is DC87 scratch resistant clear which sounds prtetty good. and then just the DC88NR diamont clear. which one woud you rec. thanks

GeoGraphics

As per the last two posts, DC 92 does have a tendency to mound if you rush it and put hardware back on too soon after completing. It has been an awesome product for me though. I have no issues blending it for repairs, by the time it is sanded and polished, it looks like a million bucks! I personaly find other clears too "watery", as they seem just not thick enough going on. When you time DC 92 perfectly after drying, it sands and polishes beautifully with the right product and steps.

Again, this is just my personal opinion. Everyone has there own way of doing things.

Thanks,

Chris.

RBeyer

Diamont is OK but not my choice. I have had the most success with Standox it is higher in solids content and can be used with a scratch resistant hardner or plasticized to give it more durabilty.
My last boat looked like the day we painted it 3 years later even below the water line.
My 2 pennys.

phragle

I wish I knew what it was..an old friend back in san diego worked at north island painting fighter jets..he sprayed some clear on some offroad parts I had, nice shine and damn near indestructable..blasted by rocks at high speed etc... though I think I remember him saying it was majorly toxic spraying it.

RBeyer

It was probably Imron I have used it in the past but it did not hold up below the water line. It is bullet proof above though.

customryder

standox or spies hecker

monstaaa

if im not mistaken donzi is using ppg now, but to answer the question as far as most durable Imron clear is designed to be just that. for scratches abrasions and the like it is incredibly strong and resistant to the enviroment. it is not so easy to use from a spraying stand point, but it is the strongest clear , medium or high solid.
chroma , ppg, speis , sikkens, h.b body, diamont are all good clears and basicly comes down to user prefernce and the technique they have come accustom to .