glassdave

its easy to work with to. cuts with simple hand tools. i use all cordless dewalt stuff because its so easy. just did some bulkhead and stringer work on the race cat with inch an a half. used my cordless circular and it only took a few minutes to whip up the panels. when its tabbed and caped in it is bomber strong although (and this is just my personal opinion) i dont really like it for transoms. i have seen some have compression faliure.

Brian what is your opinion on using it for transoms? do you use it in all transoms of your boats? I respect your boats quite a bit and god knows all i ever saw of Mac and Warren was their transom its just that i have had had some issues with the product handeling compression over time. i would assume that you laminate 3/4 rather than using a full 2 inch board. if so does this eliminate the above mentioned issues? Thanks, lookin forward to seeing your boats kick ass for another season

THEJOKER

I did 2 boats w/ the coosa transoms , never had any problems. Will Smith told me to always use 2 3/4 inch plywood and lot's of glass for transoms , that's what we use now. He also turned m onto some great plasticore for bulkheads. Will(PHANTOM) is a great friend and knows his stuff.

MF

So you guys are telling that it is better using composite high density panels instead of wood ??
Because a lot of people told me they are good surface for reconstructing or bonding damaged surfaces, but noone told me to use them as stringers..
I bet it would be really easy to cut and shape them.

MF

I used them to make my father happy with a built in swimming platform with 1,40 mt long plug, now his boat is a 50 ft....
BTW made everything calulated for going bigger in lenght, now the boat handles really better and goes by far 3 mph faster ( not a fast boat but an halmatic hull of 50 ft with twin 405 Hp going 25 mph...30 tonn displacement can be scary...)

MF

Tried to upload these pics...

MF

Finished Product ( painted in awlgrip )...Boat is high because of the tender missing