marineclean

Bump for Wetsanding info...

stormbauer

I a, looking to wet sand to remove some yellowing of my gelcoat on the white surfaces. Specificalli my transom, since I am in the process of repairing some holes in it from removing some hardware. When wet sanding should the final result bring back the gelcoat to original color or will it still show some yellowing? Not sure how far to go with sanding before I go to the buffing step.

I did a small area with some 1500 and looks better but can still notice a difference between original color and exposed area.

DareDevil

1000/1200/1500/2000/2500/3000/buff

glassdave

you post whore

stormbauer

When you step up in grits like this do you always sand in same direction?

stormbauer

Anyone?

marineclean

Sorry, it's crazy around here. I'm done for the week know, so everyone can go out and enjoy the lake.

Yes, I do all of my grits in the same direction back and forth.

Griff

I see no reason to go finer than 1500 grit. Any decent buffing compound will take out any sand scratches from there.

ThirdBird

First off, let me say this is a great thread!!

Totally agree on the Harborfreight buffer. Buddy of mine has had one for a few years, works great, so I bought one too. For under 40 bucks you can't beat it.

And, for those of you using orbital buffers, get a real buffer. Those orbitals don't have the grunt needed to work the material. Orbitals are fine for buffing off thin coats of wax, but that's about it. As for buffing off wax, I prefer the old manual method with a tee shirt. Tee shirts are the best material for final wax removal.

As stated above, I really don't see the need for anything finer than 1500 grit either unless your going a very dark color. Darks are the hardest by far to buff out so you don't see any swirls/scratch lines. Maybe 2000 on darks but beyond that, the polishing compound works out the fine scratches.

I just tried a foam pad for the first time on my hull sides. The sides are good I just wanted to brighten them with Finess It II. The foam pads are definitely harder to use than wool, takes some getting use to. I think they're better though for fine buffing, the wool is pretty aggressive.

Marine Clean - I'd like to try some of your products, I'll be in touch.

ThirdBird

Drop down to 1000 grit, you won't hurt it. Just watch out for any corners and use a block where ever possible.

I'm a believer in sanding. If you've got any serious oxidation to get rid of, buffing and compounding alone will not give the results your looking for. Better? Yes. Good enough? No.

Once you wet sand the surface real nicely, the buffing goes so much better and easier. I actually think you can do more harm with aggressive rubbing compounds than you will with wet sanding - if you sand correctly. Plus, if you sand, the finish will last much longer than just buffing.

I bought a 1988 Formula 242 in 1995. It had blue gel hull sides and they were clapped out from the sun. Boat was mint other than that. I beat the guy like a red-headed step child on the price because of the fading. Got it home, went after it with 800/1000/1500/2000, then 3M Finess It, then hand waxed. I amazed myself!!! People that knew boats (how old it was) thought I'd painted it. People that didn't know boats that well thought it was new.

Bottom line: Sand, sand, sand. Then buff.