need a class on restoring gelcoat!
#11
Neno the mind boggler
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Experteez on what . . . . . Topless chicks? Would'a been here sooner but i was busy in the VIP room.![Party Smiley 004](/forums/images/smilies/party-smiley-004.gif)
hey Donnie i think you need to post more pics of the girl in the blue bikini in you add.
Mrine clean is da man when it comes to making your boat/rig shine
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hey Donnie i think you need to post more pics of the girl in the blue bikini in you add.
![Cool Smiley 011](/forums/images/smilies/cool-smiley-011.gif)
Mrine clean is da man when it comes to making your boat/rig shine
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Last edited by glassdave; 02-28-2008 at 02:08 PM.
#12
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Here's another thread.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...d.php?t=169465
I would try 2000 first in a small area then step down to 1500.
Last edited by marineclean; 02-28-2008 at 09:05 AM.
#13
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OK here's what I did. Boat has a light grey deck, black gunwhale and maroon sides. I use a Dewalt variable speed buffer with a waffle foam pad. The compound I use is 3M heavy duty rubbing compound followed by 3M Extra Cut Rubbing Compound. Run the buffer at about 1500 - 2000 rpm and do a small area 2'x2' at a time. I break the process down into sections and when a section is buffed I wipe off the residue with a terry cloth towel. Wash with water and let dry for a good day. I then polish with Leverage. The boat is a 1986and believe me when I tell you the gelcoat is all original and looks brand new.
Now, I did have a problem with the light grey deck. Something over the years made it yellow. Don at Marine Clean said it was probably old wax that turned from the sun. Nobody else wouild notice it but I could. Nothing and no amount of buffing would get it out. I decided to wet sand. I started with 1200 grit paper but it seemed to take forever. I switched to 600 grit paper and it went much faster. Keep the paper and the area very wet. I had a small bucket next to me that I would dip the paper in and a spray bottle to wet the deck.I used straight back and forth motions with a sanding block. This removed the yellow. I then switched to 1200 grit paper to remove the scratches from the 600 grit. I then went to 1500 grit with a DA. I finished with the buffing and polishing process as above. This was only on a 21' boat and it's alot of work. I mean alot of work. Not hours but days. Would I do it again, You bet. The light grey now looks new.
Hope this helps, Dave
Now, I did have a problem with the light grey deck. Something over the years made it yellow. Don at Marine Clean said it was probably old wax that turned from the sun. Nobody else wouild notice it but I could. Nothing and no amount of buffing would get it out. I decided to wet sand. I started with 1200 grit paper but it seemed to take forever. I switched to 600 grit paper and it went much faster. Keep the paper and the area very wet. I had a small bucket next to me that I would dip the paper in and a spray bottle to wet the deck.I used straight back and forth motions with a sanding block. This removed the yellow. I then switched to 1200 grit paper to remove the scratches from the 600 grit. I then went to 1500 grit with a DA. I finished with the buffing and polishing process as above. This was only on a 21' boat and it's alot of work. I mean alot of work. Not hours but days. Would I do it again, You bet. The light grey now looks new.
Hope this helps, Dave
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Sounds to me like you are definately going to need to wet sand. Use some 1000 grit and an automotive grade buffing compund that will take out 1000 grit sand scratches. Then move on to less agressive buffing compound to take out the swirl marks.
#19
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foam pads work great on clearcoat finishes, if it was up to me i would start with a wool double back pad and step it out with finer compounds. once you have de oxidized the gelcoat. dont forget ton get rid of all the old waxes with a wax and grease remover. never have had much luck with foam pads on gel. just think of it like this, by wet sanding you are opening the gell to a new clean fresh layer. once sanded polishing will bring the shine back up. try with a small area first untill you get the hang of it. its not hard just time consuming. what better way to get the hang of polishing than on a boat. you cant hurt it. just my opinion good luck!!!!
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3M makes a foam disc that you can attach to a D.A. they come in many grits, from 400-3000. It is called Trizact Hookit II part #02075 is the 3000 grit. Start with a 600 or 800 grit, all you need for water is a squirt bottle, it doesn't take alot of water. Just squirt a little water on the 1' or 2' area and start sanding. Once you have sanded the oxidation off now lets start putting the shine back. If you started with 600 go to a 800 grit. Then go to 1000, then 1500 and finish with a 3000 grit. After the 3000 grit get some butter wax and wax your boat and you are through. You can get all these products at a good auto paint store. You can easly do this in one weekend. If you don't want to mess with doing this every year,![Hitfan](/forums/images/smilies/hitfan.gif)
wax regularly or put a clear coat on your boat. I would recommend Imron clear it will last for years.
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