polish for plexi and plastic...
#1
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Is there something easily available that will make plastic and plexiglass look good, and help make scratches less evident? I'm detailing my '87 Formula, it looks great but it is showing it's age a little around the dash and the cabin door...
I've heard some people recommend even using Pledge - but does that last?
Also - my Lowrance depth gauge is really scratched up bad, right over the display. In the sun, you can't even read it. I was wondering if that stuff they use to fix eyeglasses would help - or if anyone else has had a similar problem.
I've heard some people recommend even using Pledge - but does that last?
Also - my Lowrance depth gauge is really scratched up bad, right over the display. In the sun, you can't even read it. I was wondering if that stuff they use to fix eyeglasses would help - or if anyone else has had a similar problem.
#2
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Try the 3M Ultrafina, used it on the Fountain plexi windshield with real good results. Also I think 3M has a product for the clear headlight covers that so many cars now have, check their website.
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I removed some scratches from the shiney side of (black painted) plexi glass by wet sanding it with a really fine grit quality paper. Then I used 3M's glaze to further remove the fine scratches. A little elbow grease and the final result was perfect!
#4
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I use this product.
http://www.properboatcare.com/bowtostallma2.html
If it's really getting ugly, they have products and kits that address them too.
http://www.properboatcare.com/bowtostallma2.html
If it's really getting ugly, they have products and kits that address them too.
#5
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Novus plastic polish. Available from your lacal plastic supplier, or some auto body paint shops. Have seen it at Lowes?? (I think)
I use it at work after machining acrylic. When finished and done right, your plastic should look like glass. Does take some time to get those results.
Novus #3 for heavy scratches, followed by #2 for fine.
I use it at work after machining acrylic. When finished and done right, your plastic should look like glass. Does take some time to get those results.
Novus #3 for heavy scratches, followed by #2 for fine.
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I agree with others who also said wetsand with fine (1000 or 1500 paper) and then 3M Finess it with fine compound. Makes it look just like brand new.
If you don't have a polisher and a pad you can do it by hand but it will take a bit of elbow grease to get the smooth finish.
As for the instrument glass try some "Jewelers Polish" It is a very fine pink cream formula and is very easy on glass finishes. (you can buy it at better Automotive paint supply stores) It will polish out perfectly if you take your time. I used this on glass of antique cars when I detail them if they have scratches in the glass surfaces.
Good luck and hope it works out ok for you.
If you don't have a polisher and a pad you can do it by hand but it will take a bit of elbow grease to get the smooth finish.
As for the instrument glass try some "Jewelers Polish" It is a very fine pink cream formula and is very easy on glass finishes. (you can buy it at better Automotive paint supply stores) It will polish out perfectly if you take your time. I used this on glass of antique cars when I detail them if they have scratches in the glass surfaces.
Good luck and hope it works out ok for you.
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I have used Megauires show car glaze for 30 years, use to be called Seal & Reseal. I do it on a buffing wheel or my orbital buffer, depending on the job. I did the cabin door on my boat about year ago, had some pretty deep scratches, looks new now. Can take some time, but if you keep at it, just about any scratch will come out.
#8
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I agree with others who also said wetsand with fine (1000 or 1500 paper) and then 3M Finess it with fine compound. Makes it look just like brand new.
If you don't have a polisher and a pad you can do it by hand but it will take a bit of elbow grease to get the smooth finish.
.
If you don't have a polisher and a pad you can do it by hand but it will take a bit of elbow grease to get the smooth finish.
.