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Sealing wood with Resin

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Old 04-09-2015, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ren3
Do not thin the resin with acetone! If you are thinning the VE then styrene would be the solvent, but any extra solvent just weakens the resin. Thinned resin will not waterproof plywood by itself. There are really no shortcuts when you are trying to protect wood reinforcements. I would suggest that you use multiple layers of CSM and maybe even a layer of 1708. You already have too much time and money invested to try and short cut the process. The best way to coat the wood would be epoxy, but VE is a good second as long as you do not use it as an adhesive which it is not designed for.
Thanks for your input and just to clarify I'm not discussing the transom, I'm taking about the stuff on the port side only. Originally Formula put nothing on the wood under the deck and only stapled the wood to the top deck. The pieces of wood in the above pic are fingered together, and would like to be able to seal the wood if water ever gets back in. I have no issue using CSM but if another easier method is available that would be good. My assumption as a non-expert, is I could use epoxy paint but glass will not stick to it.

VE resin from what I have read and heard from others is that VE will bond to old VE just as epoxy will if not better. The reason I chose VE instead of epoxy is for that reason and that Formula uses VE and not epoxy of PE when the hull was originally built.

To bond old wood to new on the transom I plan to mi VE and CSM to make a peanut butter type consistency as Glass Dave mentioned in other thread, this is because I can not find core bond for VE resin, only PE. Plan to use a layer of 1708 and VE resin between the two 3/4 layers of the transom wood. Plan to use 3M 5200 to fill any gaps between bulk heads and gaps unable to fill fully after wood has been glassed/resined to seal against water. Once cured I'll use VE and lap joints to build up for structure strength.
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